Broken rear window

[GMH]

I just discovered today that someone broke one of the crankout awning windows (7”x42” approx) in the rear of the 5vr. I called the local Keystone dealer and he said I’d be better off going to a glass shop since it could take him 4 months to get one in. I called the glass shop he recommended and they said they could not do a tempered glass replacement and I should contact the dealer to get the whole assembly, frame and all.??
Has anyone had a tempered glass panel replaced by a glass shop. The glass shop also said they could not replace it with regular glass due to the pressure when travelling down the highway.
Thanks for any advice.

[GMH]

I’ll call around tomorrow. The nearest place to me has some other brand.

[BobsYourUncle]

GMH wrote:
Dicor is just a brand name correct? Any non levelling silicone free exterior caulk should work just fine I’m guessing?

Dicor is a well known brand of sealant used widely in the RV industry. I buy it at an RV parts department.
But no silicone!! Silicone is the worst thing you can use on the outside of an RV.
Yes, there are others that would work, but I prefer the right stuff.
Should be easy enough to get some Dicor. 🙂

[GMH]

Dicor is just a brand name correct? Any non levelling silicone free exterior caulk should work just fine I’m guessing?

[Cummins12V98]

GMH wrote:
Well I get my window back tomorrow. I hope it goes back in relatively easy. I will use some windex for lube.

That will do the trick!!!

[BobsYourUncle]

Looks good, nice work!

It is common for tempered glass, even basic float, to show some wavyness like that. I have seen it often in my years of glass work. Nothing to worry about. The glass is quite thin, heat treating to temper it could contribute to that as well. It is structurally sound.

As for the sealant, first and foremost NO silicone!

I would get a tube of Dicor non sagging. There is self leveling, which will flow and run out. There is non leveling, which is more suited for vertical areas. Clean up the old stuff thoroughly before applying. Wipe the area down with a bit of acetone to clean it.
But caution, only a light wipe if you use acetone. It will remove paint.

If you caulk it when it is cooler out, there is less chance of it sagging.

[GMH]

Also, what type of caulking would I use to reseal the ends of this moulding?
Thanks in advance!

[GMH]

BobsYourUncle wrote:
Great!
Good luck with the re-install.
It should go in easily.
Let us know how it turns out.

Thanks for your help on this Bob (and everyone else).
I can’t believe how easy it went in. :B Obviously it was glued in there from age. I notice that there are a series of vertical distortions in this glass when viewed at an angle. Would this be a defect that could affect it’s structural integrity? I can live with the optics of it. Tint looks right on!

[BobsYourUncle]

Great!
Good luck with the re-install.
It should go in easily.
Let us know how it turns out.

[GMH]

Well I get my window back tomorrow. I hope it goes back in relatively easy. I will use some windex for lube.

[Cummins12V98]

NJRVer wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

GMH wrote:
I got the frame out, but It sure didn’t want to come out easily! Being the top one it is somehow hooked into the rubber molding above it. The glass shop is charging me $85. to replace the glass. My fear is that I will break it trying to re-install it. I went to the Keystone dealer and they said it is a Kinro window, not Lippert. They didn’t have any service info on it, so I have e-mailed Kinro to see what they recommend. If I do break it, I will put plexi glass in the second time! Wish me luck.

Tempered is very tough. Just don’t hit the edge as it may shatter into little cubes.

Agree.
I am a door contractor and I have taken tempered glass and flung it into the dumpster and it will just bounce around. Laying flat you can stand on it.
But just a light TAP with a hammer on the edge....POOF!!!! lol.

YEP, finishing mortising in an entry lock when I was a Carpenter Apprentice and gave the hole one last tap with the chisel and the glass panel exploded into thousands of pcs. I was shocked and felt horrible. Told the Boss and he said "not the end of the world" and I felt a bit better.

We would lay 3' x 9' x 1/4" panels on a tarp and straddle the corner, lean over with a hammer and lightly tap the corner. Pull in the corners of the tarp and lift and place into a debris dumpster and take then done the freight elevator and then into the dumpster.

[NJRVer]

Cummins12V98 wrote:

GMH wrote:
I got the frame out, but It sure didn’t want to come out easily! Being the top one it is somehow hooked into the rubber molding above it. The glass shop is charging me $85. to replace the glass. My fear is that I will break it trying to re-install it. I went to the Keystone dealer and they said it is a Kinro window, not Lippert. They didn’t have any service info on it, so I have e-mailed Kinro to see what they recommend. If I do break it, I will put plexi glass in the second time! Wish me luck.

Tempered is very tough. Just don’t hit the edge as it may shatter into little cubes.

Agree.
I am a door contractor and I have taken tempered glass and flung it into the dumpster and it will just bounce around. Laying flat you can stand on it.
But just a light TAP with a hammer on the edge....POOF!!!! lol.

[GMH]

Ok, glass cleaner it will be. I will have a better look today but this is what I imagine the molding/frame connection is like? I think the frame was cast into the molding. I did try removing it with the window in all positions from wide open to nearly closed.

[BobsYourUncle]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Like I said use glass cleaner.

X2 ^^^
Don't use any lubricant. It will work good but will leave an unwanted residue.
Glass cleaner will work perfect, and it is water soluble, and will evaporate.

Another thought, is there room to close the operator, push the window more straight up to get it into the rubber, then open it to put the screws back in?

[Cummins12V98]

Like I said use glass cleaner.