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 > How to avoid getting blown all over the road

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blt2ski

Kirkland, Wa

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Posted: 05/07/21 08:27am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

As Barney points out, better hitches make towing nicer....But with this said!
You should be able to drive in windy conditions with out major amounts of uncontrolled fishtail sway! If any at all. If you have this issue, something is wrong with the setup. You need to figure out what is causing the "EFFECT" - fishtail sway, fix the cause.
Yes putting on a Hensley will stop the sway. BUT you trailer still wants to sway! If something breaks, gets loose, you are back to a swaying rig!
I'm going going to resay what I have over the last 20 yrs or so on this forum.
Fix the cause of the sway, then and ONLY then, tow with the "safety bars" attached. Otherwise you have used a band aid to fix what needs a tourniquet!

Marty


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JRscooby

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Posted: 05/07/21 08:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Mike134 wrote:

valhalla360 wrote:

JRscooby wrote:

Your trip to the Cat. Make 1 pass, hooked up like you tow, another with just TV. I have never understood what useful info is gained with loose bars, but the change in weight of TV, and where that weight rides is important info.
BTW, if you tell them it is re-weigh for the 2nd (or more) passes only charge a fraction.


For an extra $2-3 get all the info.

It's technically possible to back calculate with just the 2 measures but beyond most people's understanding of how to calculate.


I don't see how that's possible because you'd have to guess at a variable. For example calculating tongue weight would be impossible from one pass with just the truck and the second pass with weight bars connected which will put weight on the front axle and ADD weight to the trailer axle. You'd have to guess what the tongue weight is.


Well first you must understand the TW when the trailer is setting on the jack is meaningless. The number you need is the TW when hooked up, ready to go down the road.* Once you get that idea between your ears you have 3rd grade arithmetic following a 5th grade word problems. Now this is approaching the extent of my education level, other than what I learned making a living, but I will try to break it down.
The 2 passes will give you 7 numbers. TV steering (S1), TV drive (D1), TV gross (G1), Combination steering (S2), Combination drive (D2) trailer axles (TA) and Combination gross. (G2)
Want to know the TW while in operation? Add (S2) to (D2) then subtract (G1). Trailer weight? Subtract (G1) from (G2) How much of TW is transferred to steering? Compare (S1) to (S2)

*And before you go talking accuracy, understand if you need a WDH, the TW that shows when bars are loose will be more than actual.

MyersAvionics

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Posted: 05/07/21 08:42am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for all the feedback. I think I have a solid plan going forward.

$1,300 later, I have some solid tires on the truck. I'm going to look up to see how much pressure I should be running in them when towing. The dealer put 40psi in and when using a tire pressure calculator it shows I should run 52psi.

Next weekend, I'm doing a short drive for a race. I'm going to load up the camper and then take it to a CAT scale. I'll do 2 passes. One with the TV by itself and then another with the camper to see how the weight is distributed. I'll get it all sorted to ensure weight is properly distributed. Note that I don't have any 'big' toys in the back. Just a couple modern dirtbikes so they weigh a little over 200lbs each. No big 1500lbs SXS's being loaded!

After that trip, if I still feel it is warranted, I'll spring from the ProPride hitch so I have it for a trip to the UP to race later this month. That will be a bit longer 10hr drive so it would be nice to have.

Grit dog

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Posted: 05/07/21 09:12am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

^ The dealer didn't air up the tires for what you "might" haul, so that is not part of the equation.

What was the improvement in tires, because you said you had LT tires to begin with?
Since you haven't compared how it drives without wind, hard to say if your issue is all wind, but be that as it may, good luck getting it figured out.


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wowens79

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Posted: 05/07/21 10:37am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You mentioned having the Blue Ox, and Friction Sway bars?? The Blue Ox Sway Pro has sway control built into it, and uses the tongue weight to control the sway. The friction bars may be interfering with the Blue Ox. I pull a 33ft TT with the Blue Ox and have no sway.

Great choice on tires. The Revos are probably my favorite tire I've ever had, but they are $$$.

Good Luck.


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joshuajim

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Posted: 05/07/21 07:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Years ago I had a Ram 1500 pulling a 24’ relatively light trailer. I put bags on because the rear squatted too much. I fond out that if I inflated to more than 15 to 20 psi that it made the rear suspension too stiff. The rear suspension became a fulcrum and every time the trailer hit a bump the rear suspension did not deflect and resulted in the front end becoming light.

Just saying.


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valhalla360

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Posted: 05/08/21 09:24am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Mike134 wrote:

valhalla360 wrote:

JRscooby wrote:

Your trip to the Cat. Make 1 pass, hooked up like you tow, another with just TV. I have never understood what useful info is gained with loose bars, but the change in weight of TV, and where that weight rides is important info.
BTW, if you tell them it is re-weigh for the 2nd (or more) passes only charge a fraction.


For an extra $2-3 get all the info.

It's technically possible to back calculate with just the 2 measures but beyond most people's understanding of how to calculate.


I don't see how that's possible because you'd have to guess at a variable. For example calculating tongue weight would be impossible from one pass with just the truck and the second pass with weight bars connected which will put weight on the front axle and ADD weight to the trailer axle. You'd have to guess what the tongue weight is.


You can do it but you have to include the axle spacing and isolate for the unknown variables taking into account the moments created in the WDH. I'm not even going to try and explain the process...it's a whole lot simpler to just disconnect the bars and take another measurement.


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JRscooby

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Posted: 05/08/21 10:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

valhalla360 wrote:

Mike134 wrote:

valhalla360 wrote:

JRscooby wrote:

Your trip to the Cat. Make 1 pass, hooked up like you tow, another with just TV. I have never understood what useful info is gained with loose bars, but the change in weight of TV, and where that weight rides is important info.
BTW, if you tell them it is re-weigh for the 2nd (or more) passes only charge a fraction.


For an extra $2-3 get all the info.

It's technically possible to back calculate with just the 2 measures but beyond most people's understanding of how to calculate.


I don't see how that's possible because you'd have to guess at a variable. For example calculating tongue weight would be impossible from one pass with just the truck and the second pass with weight bars connected which will put weight on the front axle and ADD weight to the trailer axle. You'd have to guess what the tongue weight is.


You can do it but you have to include the axle spacing and isolate for the unknown variables taking into account the moments created in the WDH. I'm not even going to try and explain the process...it's a whole lot simpler to just disconnect the bars and take another measurement.


What is so important about knowing what what the TW would be while the trailer is not hooked to the TV? And if you think that number is important, pulling the trailer across the scales with bars loose will not give it to you because the front of trailer will be low. The TW that will change the handling is the weight the TV is carrying down the road. Getting that, and GW of the trailer so you can figure the percentage is simple if you don't add all the extra number from the loose bar pass.
Now if you where planning to replace the TV, that pass might be worthwhile if you where smart enough to figure out what the change in wheelbase and overhang will do.

BenK

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Posted: 05/08/21 12:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Depends on how many square inches are removed from the total sail area

Analogy is punching holes in Marty's sail to reduce the amount of heeling... [emoticon]

Plus the vacuuming up of all that dust and debris... [emoticon]


Grit dog wrote:

1320Fastback wrote:

I heard a rumor opening a window on each side of the trailer even just a little bit helps reduce the sway from cross winds or big rigs bow wave.


This is an interesting theory that kinda makes sense. I'm going to try to remember to try it.



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Hannibal

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Posted: 05/08/21 05:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would recommend a better WD hitch with built in friction sway control like a Reese twin cam or Equalizer 4 point. Even Blue Ox seems to have their own answer to their problem with their version of the Equalizer. I have a Reese HP with no sway control and an Equalizer 4 point that works very well. I prefer a simple Curt ballmount with no WD or sway control. It does wallow around a bit with crosswinds and occasionally with passing trucks. Shorter box trucks are worse than big rigs in my experience.

https://www.etrailer.com/question-116001.html


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