24 V Solar Panel(s)

[PerryB67]

Rich Solar makes a 200 watt 24 volt solar panel.

I would remove my rear mounted 170 watt 12 v panel and purchase two of these Rich Solar 200 watt panels, with room to add a third if needed. One would be on the front and one on the rear of the camper. The 200 watt can be mounted in the same mounts as the existing 170 watt. I want to run parallel since we will be traveling where shade is often on either the front or rear of the camper.

I have a Victron 100/30 smart controller already for this setup.

Smart move or a waste of money?

Enjoy,

Perry

[pianotuna]

Hi Perry,

Let us know if it meets your needs!

[PerryB67]

In the end I only have room for one 24v panel and did not like how the panel would be mounted. I failed to account for the large overhang of the Maxx Fan, reducing the available space to less than 22" so the second panel was not possible.

I decided on using three, 41" x 20" 100 watt Renogy panels wired in parallel along with the existing 170 watt GoPower panel. The four together, allowing for the slight mismatch of VMP, will give us 463-465 watts on a perfect day that never happens. The two rearmost panels can easily be shaded by the AC and Maxx Fan in January/February preventing wiring in series, but two of the new panels will never be shaded by the AC or the Maxx Fan, giving at worse case 200 watts.

I really did not want to add a second set of wires to connect the 24v panel to one of the Victron controllers, especially since I could only add one 24v 200 watt panel to the roof for only 370 watts. If I could have added that second 24v panel the choice was clear, but in the end that was not possible.

Thanks for your input,

Perry

[StirCrazy]

PerryB67 wrote:



With more watts on the roof, and 24v to gather sun longer in the morning and evening, a 24v panel makes more sense to me than a 12v split cell design. YMMV. Our panels (two 24v 200w and one 12v 170w) would be situated in the front, middle, and rear of the camper. Location on the roof also helps with shading.

Enjoy,

Perry

um the split cells I am talking about are 24V, I didnt even know they made a 12 volt split cells.


Steve

[BFL13]

If possible, IMO, use the Victron 100/20 for the 170 and put the portable on the PWM.

[PerryB67]

BFL13 wrote:
Not clear, but the OP must know he can't put the 12v 170 in with the 24v panels. I think he wants to keep the 170 with PWM and get a 24v set with an MPPT and use both controllers in parallel on the battery bank.

That's what we do in the C. Two controllers, one PWM and one MPPT. Just set the Vabs at the same voltage in each controller so they add their amps.

The 24v panels would be controlled by our Victron 100/30 controller that is currently hooked to our 170 watt panel. You can't/shouldn't combine 12v and 24v to the same controller.

I would pull another set of wires to our dinette where the controllers live to the original factory installed GoPower PWM controller for the 12v 170 watt panel.

I also have a 100 watt portable that is controlled by a Victron 100/20 controller. So I would have three different panel types run by three separate controllers. As you know, it works.

The first thing I would do is install one 12v 200 watt panel and hook it to the Victron 100/30 controller, leaving the 170 watt panel on the roof. Then a month or so later, pull wires for the 12v 170 watt panel and reinstall the GoPower controller.

I have more room for controllers than extra real estate on the roof for panels.

Down the road I would install the second 24v 200 watt panel and parallel with the other 24v panel to the controller. And yes, I will buy two 24v 200 watt panels at the same time.

Enjoy,

Perry

[BFL13]

Not clear, but the OP must know he can't put the 12v 170 in with the 24v panels. I think he wants to keep the 170 with PWM and get a 24v set with an MPPT and use both controllers in parallel on the battery bank.

That's what we do in the C. Two controllers, one PWM and one MPPT. Just set the Vabs at the same voltage in each controller so they add their amps.

[pianotuna]

Perry,

The total voltage of the array is determined by the solar panel of the lowest voltage rating. from: https://solarpanelsvenue.com/mixing-solar-panels/

I would sell the 170 watt panel.

AMsolar has a panel that is 26 inches with a tilting kit.

https://amsolar.com/rv-solar-panels/11s-tlt-zs190p

They have other panel configurations that are is skinny as 13.5 inches (including tilt kit)

[PerryB67]

StirCrazy wrote:


maybe instead of getting ignorant you should have worded the question a bit more clear, I read "I am thinking", not "I am getting" so for your original question, go with the 200's instead of the 100's also if your not going to jump down my throat I would also sugest you look for a split cell design panel as you said your going to be camping in the shade and they are the most efficient in shading.

Steve

I suggest, not "sugest", you look up the definition of the word "ignorant" and then consider the context you chose to use "ignorant". PM me if you wish more discussion on this subject.

With more watts on the roof, and 24v to gather sun longer in the morning and evening, a 24v panel makes more sense to me than a 12v split cell design. YMMV. Our panels (two 24v 200w and one 12v 170w) would be situated in the front, middle, and rear of the camper. Location on the roof also helps with shading.

Enjoy,

Perry

[StirCrazy]

PerryB67 wrote:

Are you listening? I specifically gave the panel. That's what I'm interested in. Is it a good idea or not. I never asked for opinions of other panels and don't feel like getting into a minutiae of everything solar discussion.

...........................................

Perry

maybe instead of getting ignorant you should have worded the question a bit more clear, I read "I am thinking", not "I am getting" so for your original question, go with the 200's instead of the 100's also if your not going to jump down my throat I would also sugest you look for a split cell design panel as you said your going to be camping in the shade and they are the most efficient in shading.

Steve

[FWC]

pianotuna wrote:
Perry,

You may want to look for panels that have by pass diodes between each and every cell.

This is a wild goose chase. Almost no manufacturer does this, and for good reason, as we explained to you in the other thread about this.....

[pianotuna]

PerryB67 wrote:
I'm having a hard time finding panels that fit, much less pass diodes between each and every cell. I'm constricted by less than 64" long and/or less than 24-25" wide.

My 170 panel, when in the sun, does just fine. I'm thinking 350 watts is overkill for our needs, but as we all know, needs change.

What panels have diodes between each cell?


Perry

My Unisolar ones do--but they are no longer in production.

Here is a link to such panels. https://review.solar/ae-solar-smart-hot-spot-free-mono-series/

[PerryB67]

pianotuna wrote:
Perry,

You may want to look for panels that have by pass diodes between each and every cell.

I'm having a hard time finding panels that fit, much less pass diodes between each and every cell. I'm constricted by less than 64" long and/or less than 24-25" wide.

My 170 panel, when in the sun, does just fine. I'm thinking 350 watts is overkill for our needs, but as we all know, needs change.

What panels have diodes between each cell?

Interesting read on bypass diodes.

Perry

[pianotuna]

Perry,

You may want to look for panels that have by pass diodes between each and every cell.

[pianotuna]

wa8yxm wrote:
Re one on front one on rear.
When one panel is shaded and the other not
Depending on the panels (And I do not know ANY panel company well enough to say how good they are) Bad things can happen.

Hi,

What bad things happen?