Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Tech Issues: PD 9100 AL converter/charger.
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 > PD 9100 AL converter/charger.

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EMD360

Arvada, CO

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Posted: 05/08/21 10:37am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ah good idea to use an extension cord. Thanks!

EMD360

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Posted: 05/08/21 10:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yes it sounds like disconnecting is the best option for the WFCO I think this has answered my questions. By the way the PD 9100 uses a 15 amp breaker but of course can use a 20 too.

BFL13

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Posted: 05/08/21 11:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

CA Traveler wrote:

OK 4' of 6ga wire, or 8ga with a little more voltage drop to the battery.

Plan on 8A AC draw and if an existing circuit can supply 8A then use it, otherwise install a new circuit and CB. I would not cut the AC cord for possible warranty considerations. Instead install a junction box or use a extension cord and cut it's male plug off.


The 60 amper will pull more like 11 amps at 120v. (PF 0.7 )


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EMD360

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Posted: 05/08/21 11:25am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I can’t find the stamp on the existing wiring. I didn’t want to disconnect and peel off the protective wrap. It appears to be relatively robust. Here it is compared to #2. I probably have enough #2 to replace existing.
[image]

EMD360

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Posted: 05/19/21 11:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I need a bit more advice on this topic. I disconnected the WFCO charger and wired an extension cord end to the 120 volt side of the distribution panel. The converter shares a 15 amp breaker with the refrigerator. I used the same breaker for the new converter. I cut a hole in the panel and mounted the PD 9100 under the refrigerator and will plug the power cable to the WFCO 120v extension cord plug. The idea was to run the charger battery cables a short distance to the batteries. I have 3’ #2 cables for this. The wires from the new converter are run back to the DC side in the distribution box. This is the same way the old converter was connected.
My question is about attaching a wire set from the PD 9100 directly to the batteries and another set to the DC distribution panel at the same time. Does the existing distribution panel still have wires to the batteries that would have be used for charging?
[image]
I would be using both terminals from the Pd9100
[image]
The positive wire to the DC board from the batteries appears to be this wire on the breaker.
Labeled triangle 4-J. I believe this is the black positive on the bottom of the DC board.
[image]
The confusing part for me is the original converter had just one set of wires to the dc board and it’s not clear to me how the batteries were attached to charge.
Hope someone can clear this up for me. Tell me if the two sets of wires are correct.

BFL13

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Posted: 05/20/21 08:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The WFCO had wires to the DC panel and the battery has wires to the panel. Either can run the Dc circuits on that panel and the WFCO charges the batteries down the same wires that the battery has going to the panel. Those wires (neg mostly frame is common) are a two- way street.

The new converter just needs wires to the battery. It will supply the DC panel up the same wires the battery uses to the supply the panel. The only diff is if the battery is removed, to run the panel from the new converter you will need to join the wire lugs together that were on the battery posts with vice grip pliers or something.

EMD360

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Posted: 05/20/21 09:54am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks so much. No wires from the pd9100 to the DC panel just uses the same wires from the battery. These are small gauge but I guess not much power is needed at the dc panel.
If the batteries were ever removed the circuit would have to be closed between the positive and negative battery wires.
I had plenty of #2 wire but it does not fit in the pd9100. I guess they call for #4 so even better that the charger is closer to the batteries.
I’m still a bit confused by the wiring from the batteries to the panel. I think I have figured out the two disconnect switches though. One triggers when the starter is on and charges the batteries from the chassis. (solenoid) The other sends a start voltage to the generator if the starter is off it comes from the batteries if on from the chassis.
I was thinking one way street so knowing the wires are two way makes a big difference.

BFL13

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Posted: 05/20/21 10:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You can still use the #2 if you use a step down connection to the PD. A short length of #4 or #6 will work or you can get those special step down lugs. The #4 might not quite fit in a set-screw hole, but you can shave some strands. Better to have proper lugs than set-screw on strands, which tend to slip out, hard to screw down on.

The short length of wire as an adapter is a "pigtail" will not choke off amps, being so short.

CA Traveler

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Posted: 05/20/21 11:44am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Best to use #2 and an adapter for the PD unit - ie minimize wiring loss. Directly to the battery both + and - with a fuse or CB on the plus cable near the battery.


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EMD360

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Posted: 05/20/21 05:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I did not know these existed. Perfect.
[image]

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