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 > water heater works fine - IF- I leave door open

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Lwiddis

Williams AZ area

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Posted: 05/09/21 07:56am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Can’t wait for Saddlebag Lake to open. It’s over 10,000.


Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2020 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, 300 watt solar-parallel & MPPT, Trojan T-125s. TALL flag pole. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist14 yr. Army vet-11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad


StirCrazy

Kamloops, BC, Canada

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Posted: 05/09/21 08:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

what color is the flame when you have the door open. I was having this issue also because I had it adjusted to lean and when I closed the door it would go out. then some one told me to adjust it so it was just flickering yellow when the door was open and its has been good since. but pinching a wire would do it also if there are any wires that can be pinched when you close the door. there isnt in mine.

Steve


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Timeking

Florida USA

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Posted: 05/09/21 08:36am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

"The RETURN millivolt signal for flame is NOT that strong and will be disrupted by a slight short to ground." Return signal? Are you saying that the Suburban design uses the spark apparatus as double duty for whether or not the flame lit? If true, that seems dumb.

There does not appear to be any damage to the orange wire, looks new. The connection to the lug is shiny and clean.

As suggested, I cleaned the burner tube. The air-gas mixture is fixed, not adjustable.

Timeking

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Posted: 05/09/21 10:05am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Further screwing with this thing reveals that sometimes the gas valve opens but the spark don't spark, while other time the sparker sparks but the gas valve doesn't open. One fireball, luckily with the door open, is enough for me to get a qualified repairman.

NRALIFR

Truck Camping Out West

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Posted: 05/09/21 10:18am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Timeking wrote:

........ If true, that seems dumb.
...........


But not uncommon. I’ve had several gas appliances that also use the igniter for flame detection. I’m guessing $$ has something to do with it. [emoticon]

[emoticon][emoticon]


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Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

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Posted: 05/09/21 11:03am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Timeking wrote:

"The RETURN millivolt signal for flame is NOT that strong and will be disrupted by a slight short to ground." Return signal? Are you saying that the Suburban design uses the spark apparatus as double duty for whether or not the flame lit? If true, that seems dumb.

There does not appear to be any damage to the orange wire, looks new. The connection to the lug is shiny and clean.

As suggested, I cleaned the burner tube. The air-gas mixture is fixed, not adjustable.


Not only does Suburban but also Atwood/Dometic, Norcold for water heaters, fridges, furnaces etc

And it is VERY Smart technology
When the Flame ignites ti creates a current (Flame Rectification)
Flame generated AC Current is rectified into a DC Current which the circuit board senses via the milliamp signal thru the Spark Electrode.
All this takes place w/o further devices/equipment/sensors and happens within seconds of gas valve opening/spark electrode firing
No flame proving signal....circuit board shuts down DC to gas valve---hence no excess raw fuel


Is it time for your medication or mine?


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Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

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Posted: 05/09/21 11:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Timeking wrote:

Further screwing with this thing reveals that sometimes the gas valve opens but the spark don't spark, while other time the sparker sparks but the gas valve doesn't open. One fireball, luckily with the door open, is enough for me to get a qualified repairman.


These details suggest circuit board valve track is issue

enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 05/09/21 11:25am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Check for a good ground.
The gas valve coils have a ground connection behind the gas valve.
There is a ground coming through the wiring harness as well.
I cleaned the valve ground and connected the harness ground to it with a short piece of #14 SAE black wire
Did you clean the contacts on the circuit board?


Bud
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Gjac

Milford, CT

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Posted: 05/09/21 12:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If the board is not a potted board you can remove it and look at the reverse side for and burnt or discolored solder tracks. While it is out you can try cleaning the contacts also. If it is a potted board it can be checked with a multi meter. Attwood has a guide on their web site, Suburban should also. If problem is intermittent check the ground that Bud mentioned this fixed my issue before. I had this intermittent issue similar to yours where it worked sometimes and not others. Sometimes I would get 12v to the board and sometimes nothing. It drove me crazy for a long time. Every time I would check the brown 12v wire it would read 12v, then when I checked it at the board sometimes it was fine other times it was bad. What it turned out to be was a loose crimp. When I closed the door, the door hit the brown wire sometimes loosing the 12v supply. Re crimped a new terminal and all was good again.

enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 05/09/21 12:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The crimps, mentioned by Gary, are in the area of the ECO and thermostat. Couple are hidden behind shrink tube enclosing thermal fuse.

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