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 > Want to replace incandescent bulbs with brighter LED

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2112

Texas

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Posted: 05/17/21 09:35am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Heck, $1.20/unit? I'll give them a try. I ordered the warm white.


2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
Timbrens, PullRite SuperGlide 2700 15K
2013 KZ Durango 2857


Gdetrailer

PA

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Posted: 05/17/21 09:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

d1h wrote:

If I did get these to try I'm really torn on the color to get. Warm white seems like it might give a little more homey atmosphere inside the RV. Natural white might be a little less yellowish. I'm sort of hesitant of getting the super white in fear of giving the appearance of a sterile operating room.


3500K is a pretty decent compromise, not as yellow as 2700K-3000K but not as harsh of a blueish light of 6000K.

The incandescent you are replacing are 2700K or a bit below that..

I know a lot of folks love to get 5000K-6500K but to me it turns everything a harsh bluish light like you get when arc welding and throws a lot of shadows so I shy away from that high of color temps.

In my home, I have found 3500K-4100K pretty comfortable and in my RV I have 3500K LEDs which for myself works great.

For the under $30 for qty of 20, they are inexpensive enough that if you don't like the color, just replace with a different color..

Yosemite Sam1

Under the pines.

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Posted: 05/17/21 12:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You might not want the brightest.

At some point, it is annoying.

Sjm9911

New Jersey

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Posted: 05/17/21 12:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I prefer the warm ones. The brite ones are very white. I have 2 lights in the kitchen area with the super whites. The rest are the warm ones. And the kids still have incandescents in the bunks, the leds were to bright for them. My small TT has way to many lights lol. The pop up has only 2 lights and we needed the natural or super white ones.


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rlw999

Washington State

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Posted: 05/17/21 12:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Gdetrailer wrote:

One of the pictures does show the backside of the circuit board, it is using a simple resistor current limiting setup which severely limits the voltage range.


I see 16 transistors on the board (can't make out the part number in the picture, but they are labeled Q1-Q16 and each has 3 terminals, so I'm assuming they are transistors). So they almost certainly have constant current drivers for the LED's that will likely work well over typical 12V charging system voltage levels.

Gdetrailer

PA

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Posted: 05/17/21 12:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

rlw999 wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:

One of the pictures does show the backside of the circuit board, it is using a simple resistor current limiting setup which severely limits the voltage range.


I see 16 transistors on the board (can't make out the part number in the picture, but they are labeled Q1-Q16 and each has 3 terminals, so I'm assuming they are transistors). So they almost certainly have constant current drivers for the LED's that will likely work well over typical 12V charging system voltage levels.


Transistors and resistors perhaps, but no switching constant current regulator what so ever. You can make a simple series pass "regulator" with a handful of resistors and one transistor but a series pass regulator is very inefficient, wastes a lot of energy as heat and unless you throw in something like a zener diode for creating a rock solid reference voltage that series pass regulator will eventually pass more and more voltage and current..

Those also could be linear 3 lead regulators but that also would be pretty wasteful as they are the same as a linear series pass transistor regulator just without the need for external parts support.. But three lead linear regulators with proper design should be noise decoupled with capacitors on input and output leads which I don't see..

Switching constant current regulators will have more than three leads and require more parts support plus RFI filtering (inductor and capacitor filtering) which is not present on those boards..

They are however cheap enough to "experiment" with but as one review mentioned about 14V perhaps a bit more for top voltage.. RV three stage converters typically will have a bulk charge voltage of 14.4V-14.8V, one or tenths of a volt more can mean life or death to poorly designed LED light assemblies. Once LEDs get near the max current, it takes much less voltage variation to burn them out from over current as they will draw more current at an extreme rate.

For the less than $30 for qty of 20, it isn't much risk other than the need to change the LEDs at a faster rate as they may have a shorter usable life..

rlw999

Washington State

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Posted: 05/17/21 04:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Gdetrailer wrote:


Transistors and resistors perhaps, but no switching constant current regulator what so ever. You can make a simple series pass "regulator" with a handful of resistors and one transistor but a series pass regulator is very inefficient, wastes a lot of energy as heat and unless you throw in something like a zener diode for creating a rock solid reference voltage that series pass regulator will eventually pass more and more voltage and current..


No doubt it's not super efficient, but at that price point and size, you're not likely to find a full switching power supply. But since it's drawing around 4W to replace an ~18W bulb, wasting a watt or so as heat is probably not a big deal.

wildtoad

Blythewood, SC

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Posted: 05/17/21 05:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Some LED’s will interfere with other electronic equipment. I have one in the patio light over the entry door and it interferes with the tv signal from time to time


Tom Wilds
Blythewood, SC
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CavemanCharlie

Storden,MN

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Posted: 05/17/21 05:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

d1h wrote:

If I did get these to try I'm really torn on the color to get. Warm white seems like it might give a little more homey atmosphere inside the RV. Natural white might be a little less yellowish. I'm sort of hesitant of getting the super white in fear of giving the appearance of a sterile operating room.


Could you find some place to order some from that sells a pack of bulbs smaller then 20 ?? If you could just order one or two at a time you could get different intensities and try them out.

In my TT I have double sockets. In one side I put a dimmer bulb (This is the side that comes on first when I slide the switch) Then in the other side I put a brighter one.

Sjm9911

New Jersey

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Posted: 05/17/21 05:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Gdetrailer wrote:

rlw999 wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:

One of the pictures does show the backside of the circuit board, it is using a simple resistor current limiting setup which severely limits the voltage range.


I see 16 transistors on the board (can't make out the part number in the picture, but they are labeled Q1-Q16 and each has 3 terminals, so I'm assuming they are transistors). So they almost certainly have constant current drivers for the LED's that will likely work well over typical 12V charging system voltage levels.


Transistors and resistors perhaps, but no switching constant current regulator what so ever. You can make a simple series pass "regulator" with a handful of resistors and one transistor but a series pass regulator is very inefficient, wastes a lot of energy as heat and unless you throw in something like a zener diode for creating a rock solid reference voltage that series pass regulator will eventually pass more and more voltage and current..

Those also could be linear 3 lead regulators but that also would be pretty wasteful as they are the same as a linear series pass transistor regulator just without the need for external parts support.. But three lead linear regulators with proper design should be noise decoupled with capacitors on input and output leads which I don't see..

Switching constant current regulators will have more than three leads and require more parts support plus RFI filtering (inductor and capacitor filtering) which is not present on those boards..

They are however cheap enough to "experiment" with but as one review mentioned about 14V perhaps a bit more for top voltage.. RV three stage converters typically will have a bulk charge voltage of 14.4V-14.8V, one or tenths of a volt more can mean life or death to poorly designed LED light assemblies. Once LEDs get near the max current, it takes much less voltage variation to burn them out from over current as they will draw more current at an extreme rate.

For the less than $30 for qty of 20, it isn't much risk other than the need to change the LEDs at a faster rate as they may have a shorter usable life..


Going on 4 years now, and have not changed one.

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