Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Fridge runs warm when temperature climbs into high 80s
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 > Fridge runs warm when temperature climbs into high 80s

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MEXICOWANDERER

las peñas, michoacan, mexico

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Posted: 05/24/21 10:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

From hard earned experience...
I used to store only ketchup, pickles, mustard, syrup, and the like in the door. What I felt were sensitive foods got first tier choice to the rear. Food safety and temperature.

garyemunson

Reno, Nevada

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Posted: 05/25/21 05:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I added 2 fans to the top vent of our Norcold. Used 2 small car radiator fans wired in series to slow and quiet them down. HUGE difference in hot weather operation.

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wa8yxm

Davison Michigan (East of Flint)

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Posted: 05/25/21 06:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Note that Evaporator and condenser are Compressor Driven terms.
The terms are different for absorption units.
That said we know what you mean so it's not a problem.


Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times


Ivylog

Blairsville, GA and WPB, FL.

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Posted: 05/25/21 06:31am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Proper installation in a slide is critical. Using a mirror determine how much of a space there is between the coils and outside wall... one inch max. Likely there is a dead air space above the top vent.
Still under warranty? Make them install it properly... 1’” of clearance and add a angled baffle at the top vent so there is no dead air space. Fans are a bandaid, except for a NoCold 1200.


This post is my opinion (free advice). It is not intended to influence anyone's judgment nor do I advocate anyone do what I propose.
Sold 04 Dynasty to our son after 14 great years.
Upgraded with a 08 HR Navigator 45’...


mr_andyj

Georgia

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Posted: 05/25/21 08:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yes, this is normal for absorption fridges.

keys are:
keep fridge side of camper on the North side, in shadow, this helps a lot.

The fans will help.

The construction of the space behind the fridge should force all the air over the coils, not around it. There should be a baffle or something so all air goes by the fridge parts.

Inside the fridge the fins need air circulation, so dont push the bread or bags up against the fins.

If more insulation around the fridge box is possible then add another layer, or check that there is good insulation around it already.

dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 05/25/21 08:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ivylog wrote:

Proper installation in a slide is critical. Using a mirror determine how much of a space there is between the coils and outside wall... one inch max. Likely there is a dead air space above the top vent.
Still under warranty? Make them install it properly... 1’” of clearance and add a angled baffle at the top vent so there is no dead air space. Fans are a bandaid, except for a NoCold 1200.


The upper Fan inside the upper door on a slide installed refer is NOT a Band aid. I will tout my 42 years as a Trained RV tech and also the fact that over the years I have installed countless upper fans blowing out and have 100% effective better cooling. Makes no difference if a 1200 or a standard 2 door refer Norcold or Dometic. Yes, the baffle to direct air ABOVE the fins curved to get to the door is also critical. Doug

ScottG

Bothell Wa.

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Posted: 05/25/21 09:09am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Old-Biscuit wrote:

When the outside air temps increase YOU have to turn up the temp setting to '4' or '5'



I have found this to be true of my krappy Norcold as well but I don't understand it. If the fridge is using a "thermostat", why do we have to change the setting when the outside temp changes???

This is one of the things that's keeping me from doing a compressor conversion; I'd have to keep that stupid thermostat.

sparkydave

Macedonia, OH

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Posted: 05/25/21 09:15am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I added a 12 volt computer fan to help move air out of the condenser vent when I discovered that the refrigerator would warm up if the sun was shining on that side of the camper on a hot day. Made a world of difference since the heat would build up inside that compartment.

wnjj

Cornelius, Oregon

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Posted: 05/25/21 09:39am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Drew A. wrote:

One thing I just noticed is that the thermistor on the fins can be moved up/down just like on fridges that do not have temperature control settings. Is moving the thermistor up on the fin something I should try? Moving the thermistor is not mentioned in the Dometic manual.


The fridge is already trying its best to cool and falling behind because of thermal issues. Moving the thermistor won’t help.

dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 05/25/21 12:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ScottG wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

When the outside air temps increase YOU have to turn up the temp setting to '4' or '5'



I have found this to be true of my krappy Norcold as well but I don't understand it. If the fridge is using a "thermostat", why do we have to change the setting when the outside temp changes???

This is one of the things that's keeping me from doing a compressor conversion; I'd have to keep that stupid thermostat.


You turn COLDER to make the refer run longer in a cooling cycle. Sounds crazy, but it is the nature of RV refers. You would think if the refer can keep up at setting 3, it is obviously running and trying to get to temp, then why set at 4 or 5. I have no idea, but that is how it functions. Doug

PS, my theory is, it catches up at night and because it starts out in the morning COLDER, then it keeps up better thru the heat of the day.

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