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kfp673

PA

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Posted: 06/01/21 05:38am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hello All,

We have a 37' outback travel trailer that I recently installed CRE3000 MorRyde equalizers. When I had the wheels off I noticed some uneven tire wear. The inside of the tires has worn much more than the rest, and getting pretty smooth on the inside edge. From what I have read that is typically caused by alignment issues or overloading. We have about 10k miles on the trailer and these were the stock tires so I am going to replace them with Goodyear endurance, but my question is, does it make sense to also upgrade the axles? I do not have a recent scale weight and I know that is going to be some of the replies, but I believe it may be due to how often we run with a full tank of water. We are often off grid and need to cary the full 55 gallons. Beyond that we pack food and the standard RV items. Again, I know getting an accurate weight is the correct thing to do, but I guess my point is, the way we pack I do not think is extreme and we will likely continue to pack the same way. That said, will upgrading the axels help this situation? Should I continue my search for a shop that can align trailer axels? (Called 2 trailer shops so far and neither of them do this. Not sure about the RV dealer). And, if I upgrade the axels to one step heavier, do I also need to replace the leaf springs?
Thanks!

Lynnmor

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Posted: 06/01/21 07:17am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

First thing I would do is crawl under with a straight edge and see if the axles are still arched up as they should be.

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GrandpaKip

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Posted: 06/01/21 07:19am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Without tire, axle, trailer weight specs, every reply will be a useless guess.


Kip
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kfp673

PA

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Posted: 06/01/21 10:49am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Adding more info from sticker on side..

GVWR 10500 Lb
GAWR 5080lb each
Tires ST225/75R15 D Planning to upgrade to goodyear E range
Axles Dexter 184357 5200lb

Now simply eyeballing the axles from the back as it sits in my driveway, you can see the front axle clearly has the upward bend. The rear has a little of it but pretty flat. Now, my driveway is on a slope so the camper is sitting slopped toward the back a bit, not sure if that matters. However, the rear tires do indeed have a lot more inside wear. Fronts have it a little but rears are much worse

So my question is, should I upgrade to 6000lb axles and the load range E tires? I have rear 50/50 on updating springs at the same time. Some say no need and others say yes. Thoughts on that?
Finally, can I replace the axle beam only or should I replace it with the 6 lugs on the end, and is TK decent or should I stick with Dexter?? $100 difference per axle as shown here https://thetrailerpartsoutlet.com/collections/6k-trailer-axles/products/6k-dexter-trailer-axle-6000-lb-beam-only
Thanks again all!

Lynnmor

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Posted: 06/01/21 03:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would replace the axles with 6000 lb beams. I don't like to have so little margin and the manufactures rating is probably for ideal conditions. If all of your brake parts are good, just use them and only buy the tubes. Stronger springs can cause a harsher ride, if they still have a good arch and the leaves are tight together then you may be OK. I have no experience with the TK axles. Hopefully the trailer is level while being towed and not be part of the problem.

kfp673

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Posted: 06/01/21 04:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lynnmor wrote:

I would replace the axles with 6000 lb beams. I don't like to have so little margin and the manufactures rating is probably for ideal conditions. If all of your brake parts are good, just use them and only buy the tubes. Stronger springs can cause a harsher ride, if they still have a good arch and the leaves are tight together then you may be OK. I have no experience with the TK axles. Hopefully the trailer is level while being towed and not be part of the problem.


Great, thanks for the input. Yes trailer is dead level when being towed so I don't think that is the issue. I think it should have had 6k axles to begin with. I will research just the tubes vs replacing the entire thing with new hubs, breaks, bearings, etc. Looks like the whole assembly is an easy install but obviously more expensive.

SDcampowneroperator

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Posted: 06/01/21 09:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Our Carriage 5er was built with 7 k dexter axles with 12" x2" brakes, E range tires.
Braking was poor, tire wear terrible. Springs and morryde equalizers ok.
Swapped the axles after 2 years for 8k dexters with 12/1/4" x 3 3/8 drums with forward self adjusting brakes , tires to. G range china Long March, run at 90 psi 10 years since, 40k miles.
tire wear was good, braking much better.
At 10 years old, last year we replaced them with another recommended china G rated tire. Samson. Hieavy load high pressure rated tires run at lighter load with pressure lower than rating seems like the answer for us.
The 7k axles and Duro E tires I used to build a dump bed, Those OEM Duro E tires all failed on the dump bed trailer with cord separation within 3 years
Upgrading the axles and tires was the right thing to do for us.

kfp673

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Posted: 06/02/21 06:03am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I also noticed that making the jump from 6k to 7k axles (when buying a complete assembly) changes to 8 lug. So I think if I make this change I will stay with 6k so I don't have to replace wheels as well.

Lynnmor

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Posted: 06/02/21 06:16am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

kfp673 wrote:

I will research just the tubes vs replacing the entire thing with new hubs, breaks, bearings, etc. Looks like the whole assembly is an easy install but obviously more expensive.


Actually it is easier to replace just the tube. There will be less weight and it will be easier to manipulate and bolt in place. The hubs on a new axle should be opened, inspected, greased and adjusted anyway because of the sloppy work done by all manufacturers. But that is just me.

JIMNLIN

Oklahoma

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Posted: 06/02/21 01:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quote:

Adding more info from sticker on side..

GVWR 10500 Lb
GAWR 5080lb each
Tires ST225/75R15 D Planning to upgrade to goodyear E range
Axles Dexter 184357 5200lb

Sound like the mfg used 5200 lb axle and then derated them with 5080 lb springs.
Any wayz....the trailer may weigh 10000 lbs fully loaded. Now subtract hitch weight = around 1400 lbs leaves 8600 lbs on the axles or 2150 lbs per tire.
Several reasons a trailer can have too much axle/tire capacity.
You really need to weigh the combo on a set of CAT scales for your trailers axle weights or just use a certified single platform scales with just the trailer axle on the platform. That way you will know what you have and what you need....and don't need.

My 1997 5th wheel rv trailer has 5200 lb axles and around 2500 lbs per tire capacity requirements.
This trailer has lots of miles on it with 51k and 55k miles the first two sets and at 48k I'm looking to replace them now with the same LT215/85-16 E at 2680 lb capacity per tire. Ran the first set for 7 years and 55k miles with no issues other than keeping them pumped to full 80 psi sidewall pressures 352 days a year.
I use Firestone LT Transforce HT or Cooper LT Discoverer HT-3 and BFG LT Commercial TA 2 .
Edit; add tire brands /sizes.........jim

* This post was edited 06/02/21 08:06pm by JIMNLIN *


"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers

'03 2500 QC Dodge/Cummins HO 3.73 6 speed manual Jacobs Westach
'97 Park Avanue 28' 5er 11200 two slides

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