Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Tow Vehicles: trailer brake issue
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walker111

se calgary

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Posted: 06/14/21 08:41am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

2017 f350 diesel and 2014 voltage 3305 toyhauler.
I am getting a prompt on my screen when hooked up and I pull the brake controller it shows TRAILER DISCONECTED.
Any ideas? Bought some diaelctric grease and will apply some and was thinking maybe a ground issue??
Thanks

guidry

Texas Cajun

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Posted: 06/14/21 09:09am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Check your ground first then move to other wires. Something may have hit some wires near the wheels or loosened one.

azdryheat

Tucson, AZ

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Posted: 06/14/21 09:36am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My "trailer disconnected" warning shows up when the trailer umbilical cord looses contact with the truck receptacle.


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WNYBob

Tonawanda, NY

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Posted: 06/14/21 10:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Don't use dielectric grease!
Use contact cleaner / lube.

walker111

se calgary

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Posted: 06/14/21 10:54am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for replies
Will look into it after work

Beaker

Brevard, NC

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Posted: 06/14/21 01:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

.


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jdc1

Rescue, Ca

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Posted: 06/14/21 02:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sometimes the connector gets a little wore out. You have to expand the connections a little so they are tighter (or replace the ends).

walker111

se calgary

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Posted: 06/29/21 02:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Picked trailer up to tow home for a trip in a few days. Blew air through pig tails and cleaned them up and did add some grease.
Read about choosing electric over the electric over hydraulic option through the settings screen. Tried that and still see trailer disconnected?????
Then I switch to electric over hydraulic and it shows connected and gain setting at 10 and there is braking but it is poor.

Looking that I need to check the wires at the wheels under trailer. All original and probably dirty and corroded.
38 degrees C here
Don't feel like getting under trailer at all right now!!!
Have a few days prior to trip so will check tomorrow when it is cooler in the AM.

BenK

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Posted: 06/29/21 02:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Most all of the similar problems helped others with…ended up with the trailer wiring.

Most common was the harness to the drum brake.

2nd most is the routing and some trailer OEMs uses daisy-chain.

After unplugging & cleaning contacts & applying dia electric grease most were better.

Best has been to retire the trailer with dedicated runs from each wheel brake directly to a central point by the coupler.

If you go that route, increase the wire gauge and only use ringlugs…NEVER tap connectors (they were invented for telephone use…a static application)


-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

Flashman

Tucson, Aizona, USA

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Posted: 06/29/21 03:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

This was happening to me and I simply cleaned and re-bent the contacts from trailer to truck connection and problem fixed

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