Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Furnace not Wanting to start properly
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 > Furnace not Wanting to start properly

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morley

British Columbia

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Posted: 06/24/21 02:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

In our 5er we have an Atwood Hydro Flame 8500-IV series furnace and a Duotherm Dome-tic Analog T Stat model 3107541.
The furnace was reluctant to start this year when the trailer came out of hibernation, but eventually did start and we used it a few times. As of last week it does not start or blow heat at all.
If you put the temperature range slidy bar to the highest setting the furnace appears to want to start but shuts off again after a few minutes without producing any heat. This occurs when on shore power or 12 volt.
I don’t believe that the T stat is the problem as the air conditioner and all the fans start up and operate as normal.
It is almost 100 degrees here now in the Okanagan so the furnace not running is not that significant.
However later in the summer and fall the furnace starting and operating properly will definitely be a must. Any one else have this situation and what were your remedies?
Thanks Morley


2008 Topaz F254SS 26 ft.
2009 Chevy Silverado, 2500HD, Duramax, Allison Tranny, 4x4, EC
250 watt solar panel system, BlueSky controller and remote


agwill

enosburg falls, vt

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Posted: 06/24/21 02:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Flapper switch may have mud dubbers, hornets nest inside of heater. Needs cleaning.


al

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 06/24/21 03:43pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi,

More commonly called a sail switch.

But it sounds is if there may be other problems, too.


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, soon to have SiO2 batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

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Posted: 06/24/21 04:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When Thermostat Closes......does the furnace fan come ON?

If NO...then you need to check that DC is going to furnace...
*On/Off Circuit Breaker ON furnace tripped --- mauanl reset
*DC Source Fuse Blown

IF YES....does the Spark Electrode Fire (CLICK CLICK CLICK)
Does the flame light off?

If No...then need to check that airflow from fan is not obstructed
*Mud Dabbers/Nest/Debris in Intake/Exhaust Ports
*Return air path obstructed
*Sail Switch stuck/paddle not moving...under the motor cover

If Spark Electrode fires/flame lights then goes out
*Electrode dirty (soot/carbon)
*Bad Electrode



2008 RV-----Time to open up the exterior access and clean/test things out


Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

morley

British Columbia

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Posted: 06/24/21 04:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Old-Biscuit wrote:

When Thermostat Closes......does the furnace fan come ON?

If NO...then you need to check that DC is going to furnace...
*On/Off Circuit Breaker ON furnace tripped --- mauanl reset
*DC Source Fuse Blown

IF YES....does the Spark Electrode Fire (CLICK CLICK CLICK)
Does the flame light off?

If No...then need to check that airflow from fan is not obstructed
*Mud Dabbers/Nest/Debris in Intake/Exhaust Ports
*Return air path obstructed
*Sail Switch stuck/paddle not moving...under the motor cover

If Spark Electrode fires/flame lights then goes out
*Electrode dirty (soot/carbon)
*Bad Electrode



2008 RV-----Time to open up the exterior access and clean/test things out


Thanks Old Biscuit, very profound advice, much appreciated.

wa8yxm

Davison Michigan (East of Flint)

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Posted: 06/24/21 05:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

More likely a sail switch issue.
When the T-Stat calls for heat the furnace starts the blower
If the blower is not running fast enough the sail switch won't sail
if it's "gunked up" it may not sail either
(you can check at the multi pin connector on the furnace control board using a voltmeter or test light, and of course the manual so you know which pin.

Once the sail switch closes the control board starts the spark generator and sends power to the gas solenoid Possible bad solenoid, out of adjustment spark gap. bad control board dirty points.

Gas lights and heats the rod. On many this rod is also the spark rod.. Dirty rod may not heat fast enough

Rod generates about 0.480 volts and thus some current. Sensor chip on control board sees that and heat continues.. Or Well on many the flame sensor and the spark rod are the same. and there is only one wire so there is a solid state "Switch" that changes from Make Sparks, about 1,000 VAC to sense about 1/2 volt DC.. imagine what happens if the switch flips with 1,414 peak volts on the lead Pop goes the sensor.

Now.. I do not know if that last item is what killed my furnace but when I ordered a replacement control board from Dinosaur Boards (Very well made board and I have the training to say that with authority) I noticed a neat little protective device (Gas discharge tube) right about where I suspect that sensor chip is.. There to protect the sensor by clamping the voltage to .. I'm not sure what (most of those style are 90 volts but you can make them less)


Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times


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