Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: 2013 Ram 6.7 With Some Motor Issues
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 > 2013 Ram 6.7 With Some Motor Issues

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cummins2014

Utah

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Posted: 07/03/21 09:12am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Cummins12V98 wrote:

Lou if you are a wrencher the actuator is not hard at all to replace. City Diesel is the best one to get. They have a good track record and it does not require it to be programed. Cost is around $895. The dealer will want at least 3k.

I lucked out, mine went out a few months ago while under warranty. Very unlikely your turbo is bad.

Post the code they brought up.


Mine from a dealer in April was 2K, looks like not all dealers are equal . Been okay since the repair . I wished that I would have been able to do my own repair ,but being nearly 800 miles from home with a fifth wheel in tow, not possible .

It appears City Diesel is out of stock on those actuators , although Genos also sells them, they don't say out of stock, but its doubtful if City diesel is out of stock Genos would have them, being they also sell the City Diesel actuator .

cummins2014

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Posted: 07/03/21 10:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Read this this morning on a Cummins Diesel forum , it appears its not always good to run the exhaust brake 100% of the time on these 6.7 Cummins . Have always been led to believe that running the exhaust brake 100% of the time was a good thing . This kind of gives me pause on doing so .


Re: P003A/P00AF/U010C
Sorry guys, haven't been on in a while.
Yes, my OEM actuator had failed. And even though my truck was still under warranty Dodge would not cover under Powertrain Warranty because the Actuator isn't common to the engine oiling system. Never mind that it has coolant running to it.
So I purchased a City Diesel Actuator and could not be happier with the product and the service.
In addition I also added a DRD MM3 Tuner at the same time.
Again, could not be happier with the product and service.
One sidenote, just in case anyone else has experienced this. After installing Actator and Tune I was running the exhaust brake on by default.
And occasionally, like once every few weeks, I would start the truck when it was hot and it would sound kind of like when the exhaust brake is engaged as part of the DRD tune to help warm the truck up in cold weather.
But the truck would have no power and just pour black smoke from the exhaust.
I simply had to restart the truck to correct.
I asked Ray at DRD about it as I thought it might be a software glitch.
He said he thought it was actually an Actuator issue. So contacted Jason at City Diesel. Here is what he said.

I think Ray probably has the right idea about this. It does sound like
the vanes are sticking in the closed position. 99% of the time when you
have a mechanical problem causing vanes to stick its in the fully closed
position. It sounds like you have a mechanical vane issue thats
probably only happening when the right sequence of events is happening,
IE the truck is hot and the vanes are commanded to 100% they may be
sticking occasionally. It does not make sense for this to be an
actuator issue. Most of the time when this is an actuator problem you
do not see it always have a problem in the same vane position. To the
actuator there is no difference in closed, open or anywhere in between.
We see this most often in trucks that are using the exhaust brake 100%
of the time as this does cause premature piston ring wear on the turbine
wheel piston ring. The main contributor of wear to this piston ring is
exhaust pressure and the exhaust brake being on constantly of course
increases exhaust pressure and piston ring wear. When this piston ring
wears a bit the turbo starts allowing a small amount of oil into the
exhaust housing. This small amount of oil mixes with exhaust and
creates a gummy mess that gets pushed up to the extreme ends of the
typcialvane travel(IE 95% travel) and can cause the vanes to stick when
its pushed passed that @100%. The later model trucks (after 2012) went
to a dual piston ring setup that makes this less common but it does
still occasionally happen.

No more often than you are seeing the issue exercising the vanes will
probably be enough to fix this for you. Please note that running the
exhaust brake is not good exercise as most of the time the exhaust brake
stops at the 95% range. You instead need to exercise the entire range.
The easiest way of doing this is turning your ignition key on and
plugging and unplugging either the fuse that powers the actuator or the
plugging and unplugging the actuator connector itself. The goal is to
cycle power to the actuator in order to trigger its self-learn and self
clean cycle. This needs to be done at least 100 times. You can also
simply cycle the ignition from on-off-on many times the problem is you
need to wait 4 seconds after switching off before turning it back on.
You might get away with simply cycling the ignition a few extra times
everytime you drive it as well.

I did what he suggested and it completed solved the issue. Has not happened again and it's been like 4 months.
If you need any other info don't hesitate to ask.
Again I cannot recommend DRD and City Diesel highly enough. They are both wonderful to work with!

Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Posted: 07/03/21 11:27am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

^Thank you for that info!!
Seems plausible from a knowledge able source. Owning one of these trucks for not too long now and moderate mileage (80k), I can say I feel or see a few quirks from time to time in the vgt operation.
I’ll try the cleaning trick. Seems nothing to lose there.


2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29

Grit dog

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Posted: 07/03/21 11:28am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

On another note, appears Lou is not keen on sharing info or updates on his sit rep.

cummins2014

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Posted: 07/03/21 04:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Grit dog wrote:

^Thank you for that info!!
Seems plausible from a knowledge able source. Owning one of these trucks for not too long now and moderate mileage (80k), I can say I feel or see a few quirks from time to time in the vgt operation.
I’ll try the cleaning trick. Seems nothing to lose there.


If been hearing this 100% Exhaust Brake thing now for 7 years , this the first time I’ve read it wasn’t that good of idea . Where and how it got started I have no idea , but it does seem the guys in the know think differently. The thing is in these seven years I’ve never heard anyone dispute it until now . I’m thinking of contacting City Diesel , and have this conversation.

What I posted is not a very old thread . I’ve already had an actuator replacement it only took 59k miles . I’d like to do whatever I can to prevent another , hopefully running the exhaust brake 100% of the time was not the cause .

SweetLou

La Quinta, CA USA

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Posted: 07/03/21 05:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Grit dog wrote:

On another note, appears Lou is not keen on sharing info or updates on his sit rep.

Can't report what I don't know. They have not come back with the diagnosis yet. If it is the actuator, I might replace the whole deal with AST. Unless I hear that they are not good units. Then I won't need to worry about the turbo down the line


2013 3500 Cummins 6.7 Quadcab 4x4 3.73 68FE Trans, 2007 HitchHiker Discover America 329 RSB
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goducks10

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Posted: 07/03/21 05:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I ran my EB for 6 years straight towing and not towing. Granted I only put 60,000 miles on my 2012 CTD but it never hand any turbo issues.
But I think I will rethink my thinking on running the EB 100% of the time.

joshuajim

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Posted: 07/03/21 07:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ShinerBock wrote:

The clattering could be a number of things. It could be as small as having lower quality fuel to your HPFP being out of wack as ScottG stated.

Cetane ratings in fuel do affect the sound of the engine. You could throw a bottle of cetane booster or another additive with cetane booster in it to see if the noise goes away. If it does then it is likely the fuel and I would try getting it somewhere else next time. If not, then you know you have another issue.


CA has a minimum cetane rating of 53. Not likely that it is a problem.


RVing since 1995.

Cummins12V98

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Posted: 07/03/21 10:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lot of knowledgeable guys on the TDR, they said mine going out at 80k had nothing to do with running mine all the time.

I am not changing running mine all the time.


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Cummins12V98

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Posted: 07/03/21 10:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lou your money but I would not change out the turbo if actuator is bad.

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