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Caulk or no caulk

lamopar
Explorer
Explorer
So at the back of the toy hauler where the vynol goes under the metal plate I have a gap. It seems water could just run under the metal plate and rot the floor there and I am thinking about caulking it. Thought I would see if others have done the same or left it as it drains. With the barrier under the flooring I can't see that area from below. If the floor was flat I wouldn't' worry about it too much but it is a dove tail floor so any moisture will defiantly flow there. What say you???
6 REPLIES 6

lamopar
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks. I figured from the stories I read on here if there was a problem someone would have already gone through it even though I couldn't think of one. We have a Genesis Supreme and they seemed to do a great build job but didn't caulk that area so I also thought there may be a reason. I think it is going to get a good fill in a couple of days.

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
Oh got it. It’s not a cover plate that’s screwed down.
Then yeah I’d fill it full and wipe it clean so it’s not exposed to traffic.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

lamopar
Explorer
Explorer
Grit dog wrote:
arhayes wrote:
Agree with Grit Dog….you definitely want to address it as ramp doors are expensive to replace. Don’t ask how I know.??

I don't believe he's talking about ramp doors, but rather the floor inside the trailer.
But...
Do TH ramp doors typically encapsulate material that is prone to rot?
I never considered that having owned multiple other enclosed trailers with ramp doors that literally got wet regularly/constantly for periods of time with no issues.

Not something I had considered...a toyhauler with paper mache ramps?


Yes I am talking about where the dove tail of the floor goes under the plate at the back of the toy hauler. I don't think I can remove it as it is welded to the frame.

I was thinking about caulking it under the edge as there is a gap between the top of the floor and bottom of the plate.

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
arhayes wrote:
Agree with Grit Dog….you definitely want to address it as ramp doors are expensive to replace. Don’t ask how I know.??

I don't believe he's talking about ramp doors, but rather the floor inside the trailer.
But...
Do TH ramp doors typically encapsulate material that is prone to rot?
I never considered that having owned multiple other enclosed trailers with ramp doors that literally got wet regularly/constantly for periods of time with no issues.

Not something I had considered...a toyhauler with paper mache ramps?
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

arhayes
Explorer
Explorer
Agree with Grit Dog….you definitely want to address it as ramp doors are expensive to replace. Don’t ask how I know.??
Alan and Kathleen
2015 Grand Design Momentum 380TH (RVD2)
2014 F350 6.7L Diesel DRW (Stormtrooper)
2012 Honda Goldwing NAVI/ABS (Land Speeder)

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
If you're actually getting a significant amount of water on the floor, then I'd say you're tracking straight, however I'd consider something else than caulking the surface.
It's a sill plate screwed down where the floor goes from flat to dovetail, right?
Remove the sill plate and either caulk under it and compress it back down (hidden from view) or seal it with a gasket maybe. Thin 1/8-1/4" thick neoprene or similar.
Both should be 1 and done. Caulking isn't meant for high traffic/wear areas.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold