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Dometic issue

larry_barnhart
Explorer
Explorer
Temperature was 115 for 3 days and the fridge stopped cooling but the freezer was working ok. Now after the big heat has gone the fridge is working again. Local rv store felt the issue was overheating and is going to see if the cooling unit needs to be replaced. This is something we have never experience before and have been rving since 1996. But never this hot. Dometic 12 ft. 2019 fifth but used one trip. Probably will get it tested . Anybody experienced this issue?

chevman
chevman
2019 rockwood 34 ft fifth wheel sold
2005 3500 2wd duramax CC dually
prodigy



KSH 55 inbed fuel tank

scanguage II
TD-EOC
Induction Overhaul Kit
TST tire monitors
FMCA # F479110
21 REPLIES 21

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
Gjac wrote:
dougrainer wrote:
Gjac wrote:
Would a cheaper solution to ARP be to install a Bimetal disc thermostat that shuts off at 200F and closes at 180F? These limit switches are used as a safety device in gas fired furnaces and cost less than $5.00. I am sure the ARP does more, but just wondering what others think.


The average flue temp is around 275 to 350 degrees. Doug

The Norcold recall trips at 700 degrees.
I was using the temps that Otrfun posted, where he posted that normal temps were between 180-190F and ARP shuts down at 217F. What ever the correct temps maybe my question is wouldn't a cheaper solution to the ARP be a Bimetal disc thermostat?


The temp I posted is the Temp of the STEEL flue tube itself, not the outside of the Insulated jacket cover. The Norcold Recall sensor is secured to the inside steel of the flue tube. Your temps would be correct for the outside cover. Doug

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
dougrainer wrote:
Gjac wrote:
Would a cheaper solution to ARP be to install a Bimetal disc thermostat that shuts off at 200F and closes at 180F? These limit switches are used as a safety device in gas fired furnaces and cost less than $5.00. I am sure the ARP does more, but just wondering what others think.


The average flue temp is around 275 to 350 degrees. Doug

The Norcold recall trips at 700 degrees.
I was using the temps that Otrfun posted, where he posted that normal temps were between 180-190F and ARP shuts down at 217F. What ever the correct temps maybe my question is wouldn't a cheaper solution to the ARP be a Bimetal disc thermostat?

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
Gjac wrote:
Would a cheaper solution to ARP be to install a Bimetal disc thermostat that shuts off at 200F and closes at 180F? These limit switches are used as a safety device in gas fired furnaces and cost less than $5.00. I am sure the ARP does more, but just wondering what others think.


The average flue temp is around 275 to 350 degrees. Doug

The Norcold recall trips at 700 degrees.

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
Would a cheaper solution to ARP be to install a Bimetal disc thermostat that shuts off at 200F and closes at 180F? These limit switches are used as a safety device in gas fired furnaces and cost less than $5.00. I am sure the ARP does more, but just wondering what others think.

otrfun
Explorer II
Explorer II
For those that want to track how well their frig is working (realtime data plus accumulated past data), I'd highly recommend checking out one of these Govee Bluetooth temp/humidity sensors for use inside your fridge. It gives you the realtime temp and humidity, plus it stores all your temp/humidity readings for the last year or so. All the historical data is very easy to access using the Govee BT app. Easy to track any long-term cooling trends that may develop. Also very easy to track how your fridge handles cool-downs/recoveries under different ambient conditions. Good bluetooth range. Great price (~$10), too.

x1 with what Doug Rainer suggested: install an ARP Fridge Defender. $150-$200 is cheap insurance to automatically protect your $1500-$2000 fridge from overtemp boiler conditions. One of the big side benefits of using the ARP is the ability to view flue temps realtime (temps typically hover around 180-190c; ARP shuts down fridge at 217c). Easy to tell how well your fridge is working (on 120vac, propane, and 12vdc) based on the flue temps. Easy to see when it's time to clean the propane jet/orifice (flue temps drop on propane). Also allows action to be taken before the boiler gets too hot and the ARP is forced to shut down the fridge (temps spike upwards within a few min.).

larry_barnhart
Explorer
Explorer
The fridge is a 12 ft double door and this fifth was used on one trip of 1000 miles. I don't think he did anything. 4 fans are noisy. chevman
chevman
2019 rockwood 34 ft fifth wheel sold
2005 3500 2wd duramax CC dually
prodigy



KSH 55 inbed fuel tank

scanguage II
TD-EOC
Induction Overhaul Kit
TST tire monitors
FMCA # F479110

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
larry barnhart wrote:
Doug it looks like what you said is the way we have. 4 cooling fans below the fins and the air is directed to blow up the fins and then out the top . the fridge is 39 degrees and is empty the freezer is 13 degrees with some frozen food in the freezer. We have cooler temperature's now under 100. Chevman


4 cooling fans??????? I have never seen more than 2. Is it possible a previous owner installed extra fans? Doug

larry_barnhart
Explorer
Explorer
Doug it looks like what you said is the way we have. 4 cooling fans below the fins and the air is directed to blow up the fins and then out the top . the fridge is 39 degrees and is empty the freezer is 13 degrees with some frozen food in the freezer. We have cooler temperature's now under 100. Chevman
chevman
2019 rockwood 34 ft fifth wheel sold
2005 3500 2wd duramax CC dually
prodigy



KSH 55 inbed fuel tank

scanguage II
TD-EOC
Induction Overhaul Kit
TST tire monitors
FMCA # F479110

larry_barnhart
Explorer
Explorer
thanks for the new information Doug. going out to look at the top.

chevman
chevman
2019 rockwood 34 ft fifth wheel sold
2005 3500 2wd duramax CC dually
prodigy



KSH 55 inbed fuel tank

scanguage II
TD-EOC
Induction Overhaul Kit
TST tire monitors
FMCA # F479110

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
Last, the ARP device is something that all RVer's need to install. It stops harmful off level operation automatically so you do not have to manually monitor it. Doug

https://www.arprv.com/products.php

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
larry barnhart wrote:
More information and thanks for all the comments. We are home and the fifth is sitting headed north but the scrubs on the drivers side are higher than the fifh so shade on that side until the sun changes to expose the back and soon the shade from the tall scrubs has that side in the shade, Fridge in the slide and has cooling fans that scream but didn't seem to hear them during the time the fridge was warm and no food in the fridge but frozen food in the freezer. Freezer is 10 degrees and the fridge is 40 at this time of 7:pm Thermistor is not attached to a fin and doesn't show as what we have had in the past rv's. Trailer is sitting level. the 30 amp power has gone out before the issue but have a 20 amp heavy cord powering the trailer and just the fridge is running on that. I feel it might be ok but we will head south again this September. chevman


1. Fans should be running
2. I CANNOT STATE THIS AS MORE IMPORTANT THAN ANYTHING ELSE---When a refer is in a slide room, it is best to have a fan at the top access door blowing OUT. Regardless of any fans that are lower blowing up. So, if you remove the upper access door and there is NO fan visible blowing out, Install one. You will be amazed at the better cooling you get.
3. Also as important as the fan in a slide----Look at the upper condensor fins when you remove the upper access door. IF there is any gap between the edge of the fins and the interior outside wall, you need to make a simple wood panel to force ALL the convection air THRU those fins. If no block panel, you don't get the benefit of adequate air flow thru those fins. The air flow REMOVES the heat to allow the CU to operate.
4. Do these things and you will have a awesome refer. Also reconnect the Thermister on the fins. Doug

PS your temps show that the refer is OK and do my modifications and you will see the lower probably get to 32 degrees.

larry_barnhart
Explorer
Explorer
More information and thanks for all the comments. We are home and the fifth is sitting headed north but the scrubs on the drivers side are higher than the fifh so shade on that side until the sun changes to expose the back and soon the shade from the tall scrubs has that side in the shade, Fridge in the slide and has cooling fans that scream but didn't seem to hear them during the time the fridge was warm and no food in the fridge but frozen food in the freezer. Freezer is 10 degrees and the fridge is 40 at this time of 7:pm Thermistor is not attached to a fin and doesn't show as what we have had in the past rv's. Trailer is sitting level. the 30 amp power has gone out before the issue but have a 20 amp heavy cord powering the trailer and just the fridge is running on that. I feel it might be ok but we will head south again this September. chevman
chevman
2019 rockwood 34 ft fifth wheel sold
2005 3500 2wd duramax CC dually
prodigy



KSH 55 inbed fuel tank

scanguage II
TD-EOC
Induction Overhaul Kit
TST tire monitors
FMCA # F479110

2112
Explorer II
Explorer II
dougrainer wrote:
You are doing it correct.
Thank You Sir
2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
Timbrens
2013 KZ Durango 2857

2112
Explorer II
Explorer II
mr_andyj wrote:
2112. big Rush fan???
Yep. 2112 was some of Neil's best work, RIP. Besides, all the world a stage was too long for a username

A series of 48 30 minute sessions would add up to 24 hours. assuming the 24 hour thing is a real number then those 48 times would ruin it.
This is how I understood it. Thanks for the feedback
2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
Timbrens
2013 KZ Durango 2857