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replacing pigtails on propane tanks

rvshrinker
Explorer III
Explorer III
I thought this would be so obvious and simple but as usual I run into all kinds of questions.

First I found out that there are ‘two kinds’ of connectors. The one I am replacing has a thread on the male end. This is what I have on the new one as well. Is this necessarily the right one, or are there more than 1 kind with a threaded male end?

Second, is there supposed to be a small washer inside the fitting? There is none on my regulator.

Third, I read different things on line: you must use Teflon tape, definitely do not use Teflon tape, you don’t need anything, or you should use LocTIte of some kind. What is the actually correct answer?

Fourth, Do I just tighten as much as possible? Could I overtighten/strip something?

Ugh. nothing is as simple as it looks to me.
25 REPLIES 25

philh
Explorer II
Explorer II
Old-Biscuit wrote:
Yours could be NPT or Inverted Flare (check which in the LINK above)
If old hoses screw directly into REG body then NPT
If old hoses screw into a brass adapter on REG then Inverted Flare

Yellow Gas Tape on NPT...not on Inverted Flare

Tighten until you feel good resistance ....

No washers used.

My first TT was used, and the Community College Plumbing / Certified Master Plumber had installed a new water heater.

Propane line (flare fitting), not only was loose enough to start a fire, but even better, pipe dope spread on the flare fitting.

Old-Biscuit
Explorer II
Explorer II
rvshrinker wrote:
what is the RIGHT direction?


Hold item so threaded end is to your right....
Then start wrap on threads AWAY from you
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

time2roll
Explorer II
Explorer II
rvshrinker wrote:
what is the RIGHT direction?
The correct way should wrap the tape around as you are turning in the direction of tightening the male fitting. You will be Turning to the right as you have a right hand thread.

rvshrinker
Explorer III
Explorer III
what is the RIGHT direction?

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
Yellow gas pipe tape is just fine for npt threads. Not sure where that wives tale came from.
Or pipe dope. TAke your pick. Heck electrical tape will work in a pinch.
Thread is generally 1/4” male flare or 1/4” mpt. Just replaced one on our 2017. Fwiw the great camping world didn’t have the right one. Should have just gone to the hardware store in the first place.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Old-Biscuit
Explorer II
Explorer II
StirCrazy wrote:
rvshrinker wrote:
thank you that is so helpful!

This article suggests yellow tape is the preferred sealing method and adequate:

https://www.oasisngv.com/vdb/document/1179


actualy it doesnt, it says it is more conventiant for the worker to use as it is easier to carry , doesnt have a shelf life, and has no cure time. if you dont wrap it properly it can be the worst one you'll use.

I used to work for a gas company when I was a young lad and we would have been fired for using tape instead of liquid sealers. if you notice when the rv's come from the factory they use a liquid sealant also. the choice of liquid sealants is just as important though, you want to get a non hardining one, so it sets up but doesnt harden like a rock.

Steve


Liquid sealers are fast/easy ....just a quick wipe around the threads with the brush----Done

Yellow Gas Tape is just as effective and less messy.....just a couple of wraps in the RIGHT direction...done
Direction is important where as with liquid sealant---just swipe it on

Commercial/Production----time is money....liquid sealant is the choice
Yellow tape is good also.
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

StirCrazy
Nomad III
Nomad III
rvshrinker wrote:
thank you that is so helpful!

This article suggests yellow tape is the preferred sealing method and adequate:

https://www.oasisngv.com/vdb/document/1179


actualy it doesnt, it says it is more conventiant for the worker to use as it is easier to carry , doesnt have a shelf life, and has no cure time. if you dont wrap it properly it can be the worst one you'll use.

I used to work for a gas company when I was a young lad and we would have been fired for using tape instead of liquid sealers. if you notice when the rv's come from the factory they use a liquid sealant also. the choice of liquid sealants is just as important though, you want to get a non hardining one, so it sets up but doesnt harden like a rock.

Steve
2014 F350 6.7 Platinum
2016 Cougar 330RBK
1991 Slumberqueen WS100

rvshrinker
Explorer III
Explorer III
thanks everyone, i’m very grateful for all your help.

time2roll
Explorer II
Explorer II
rvshrinker wrote:
Translation: why can’t I use the ones I bought and attach directly to regulator using yellow tape? Will that not work?
That is fine too.

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
There is nothing wrong with using the NPT pigtails. A little more caution on putting on sealant whether it be Teflon tape or a good quality paste type.
Care must be taken as to not over tighten and stripping threads out of the regulator.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

rvshrinker
Explorer III
Explorer III
I can see how that would work, but the NPT end I have seems to be exactly what I removed from the regulator, and is currently attached to my old pigtail. Translation: why can’t I use the ones I bought and attach directly to regulator using yellow tape? Will that not work?

time2roll
Explorer II
Explorer II
rvshrinker wrote:
Alright, the old ones I removed seem to have a small more narrow male end, which is inserted into a brass adapter, which I removed when I took the pigtails off the regulator.

However, the new replacement pigtails seem to have an integrated brass piece so that it would attach directly to the regulator, with no additional adapter needed.

This is what I bought
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083WGZYNZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


You wanted the inverted flare

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YWN1TH3/

rvshrinker
Explorer III
Explorer III
Old-Biscuit wrote:
"Alright, the old ones I removed seem to have a small more narrow male end, which is inserted into a brass adapter, which I removed ...."

Inverted flare......
Did you open the Link I posted to types of fittings?
Scroll down and look/read about #3


Did you crack the regulator by overtightening??

yes i did look at the link and yes I think I have #3, BUT it seems like the little brass ?adapter that goes on the regulator is now 1. on the old pigtails I removed and 2. integrated in a single piece with the new pigtails I bought.

I don’t believe the regulator is cracked. how would I know? One of the pigtail’s rubber is cracked, so I decided to replace both. I doubt that’s where it’s leaking, but I really don’t know. It just seems like I’ve stuggled with this even with the prior (original, from 2017) pigtails that cracked after 18 months, again I don’t think the cracking is where the leak is, but it’s a sign of aging and maybe a poor quality product, and it seems the propane tends to leak out even when there is no drain on it. The water bottle test doesn’t reveal any obvious leaks/bubbles.

wopachop
Explorer
Explorer
This forum has a separate photo posting site. You upload it there and it gives you a link to post in your reply.

Yes you can overtighten most nuts and that's not good. A threaded connection is more forgiving to accidentally over tightening. As you tighten the nut or bolt, the threads begin to stretch.

A flare connection is 2 similar shapes getting pressed together. Once its snug it only takes a little bit more for it to be tight and not leak.