trying to get stuck tire off

[cac43]

I stopped by a large tire store this am because at an overnight stop I noticed my outside right rear tire was 6 lbs low on pressure. according to my "spit" test the valve core was leaking. I didn't have anything to tighten it. the repair man said that the entire stem had to be replaced
and to do that he had to remove the tire. I reluctantly said ok if he was sure. he took off the lug nuts but the tire was stuck so he couldn't get it off. he proceeded to use a 10 lb sledge with a 4'
handle and began to pound the tire itself as hard as he could. after 20 times the tire was still stuck. so I told him to quit and just tighten the valve core and air it up.
I'm wondering how much damage to the tire and if this was an accepted procedure.
has any one else had this happen? thanks. chuck

[ernie1]

JaxDad I totally agree with your statement. Whenever I have a drum, rotor or wheel that won't come loose I take my air chisel with a hammering head on it and hammer the area that the rotor, drum or wheel is in contact with the axle. Almost always after hammering different spots and seeing rust and dust flying off the surfaces the parts will separate.

[JaxDad]

ferndaleflyer wrote:
Something about the aluminum bonding to the bolts, lugs.

It’s not the bolts that’s the issue, it’s the face of the rotor or drum.

The problem is something called a ‘galvanic reaction’. When two dissimilar metals, the aluminum wheels and cast brake parts in this case, are held tightly together over time they chemically bond to each other.

[cac43]

Re my original question about a stuck wheel. so many good suggestions. I bought a thing to tighten the valve core before our trip, but couldn't find it when I needed it. I really think the core just needed to be tightened, but decided the tech was a tire expert so went with what he said-
bad mistake. when we get home I'll take rv to someplace so they can do something to loosen
the wheels-i'll suggest some of the things said below. thanks so much. chuck

[ron_dittmer]

larry cad wrote:
There is a product called "Never Seez" that is a type of grease that you can paint onto wheel studs and you will never again have that problem. I use it all the time on wheels, and brake discs, and other stuff that gets exposed to water and might someday have to come off.

Doesn't solve your problem, but prevents it from happening again. Oh, and yes, use a sledge hammer.

I agree with everything you are saying.

You call it "Never Seez".
The industry calls it "Anti-Seize" sold under many different names and labels. Google the word anti-seize.
Remove the cap and there is an application brush attached to it like this.

I use anti-seize compound on contact areas for brake rotors, alloy wheels, wheel hubs, and lug stems.....any such things that get badly corroded, that you want to come apart easy later.

[Stranger]

Cheaper than Amazon.

[wopachop]

Is it holding air? Wonder how true the part was about needing to change the entire stem.

A new core or tightening the original might have been sufficient.

[ferndaleflyer]

Mike as I said above loosening the other lug bolts and driving did not help on the Mercedes. Something about the aluminum bonding to the bolts, lugs.

[OkieGene]

^^^^ Thanks for this info.

[Mike134]

bgum wrote:
Next time just loosen the lug nuts a little and drive around the block.

X2!! your method NEVER fails and nobody breaks a sweat.

[ferndaleflyer]

Wait till you get the 2 step lug bolts on a Mercedes froze. First the outside part shears off and then if you are lucky you can drill and easy out them. If that don't work it is cut the wheel enough to get a end cutting wheel in there and cut through the wheel to cut the lug off behind the wheel. After the wheel falls off you can turn whats left out with your fingers....the loosen the the other lug bolts didn't work after driving a mile or more.

[larry_cad]

JaxDad wrote:
Next time, deflate both tires, insert 3 short pieces of 4” x 4” wood blocks between the tires at 10, 2 and 6 o’clock and reinflate both tires again.

Usually the air pressure forces them apart, even if not, it’s then a bunch easier to pop them apart with the big hammer.

Awesome idea! Will for sure remember that one!

[JaxDad]

Next time, deflate both tires, insert 3 short pieces of 4” x 4” wood blocks between the tires at 10, 2 and 6 o’clock and reinflate both tires again.

Usually the air pressure forces them apart, even if not, it’s then a bunch easier to pop them apart with the big hammer.

[Grit_dog]

bobndot wrote:

Grit dog wrote:
get a Colby Valve to carry with you.

I didn’t know about these ,
What size is used on our 16” wheels ?
Some are hand twist and some need a socket in one of two sizes. The company list says standard size and commercial , like farm equipment.

Most all light duty wheels are .453”. I think there’s only 2 sizes.
They work well. They’re not cheap and imo not designed for permanent long term application, but are handy in a pinch.

[Rick_Jay]

Those Colby Valves are cool. I didn't know about them. Looks like I have something else to buy for my "spare parts" collection. 🙂

Thanks for the tip!

And I second the process of slightly loosening the lug nuts and driving the vehicle around a bit. A couple of slow speed, hard stops forward and in reverse has always done the trick for me.

Of course, it's too late to do that once it's up on the lift, so people reach for the pry bars and sledge hammers thinking (hoping) the stuck rims will quickly loosen. In my experience, they usually don't. So IF I stumble upon that problem, I lower the vehicle, put the lug nuts back on within a thread or two of touching, and do a couple of hard, slow speed stops. Knock on wood, that has always worked without having to break much of a sweat.

~Rick