Mike134
Elgin, IL
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One more place to measure for zero ohms.
Between the trailer steps and the door handle/door frame.
You mentioned she was standing with bare feet on the steps when she touched the door?
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wopachop
Who run bartertown
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Im not the OP but hoping to learn along with him.
Just read post #1 and yes he says she was barefooted and grabbed the handrail.
Isnt the handrail usually plastic?
What exactly was the path of electricity? If the metal steps are energized, it must have been 1 foot on the metal steps and 1 foot on the physical ground? I dont see how the handrail could come into play. If it was metal, and screwed into the frame, it would also be energized the same as the steps.
edit: oh wait never mind. was picturing metal studs.
* This post was
edited 07/23/21 07:03pm by wopachop *
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Mike134
Elgin, IL
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wopachop wrote:Im not the OP but hoping to learn along with him.
Just read post #1 and yes he says she was barefooted and grabbed the handrail.
Isnt the handrail usually plastic?
What exactly was the path of electricity? If the metal steps are energized, it must have been 1 foot on the metal steps and 1 foot on the physical ground? I dont see how the handrail could come into play. If it was metal, and screwed into the frame, it would also be energized the same as the steps.
Bare with me, in all the "excitement" of her getting shocked she may well have had one bare foot still on the ground when she touched the door. When this stuff happens memories can get clouded.
I'd like him to check for zero ohms between the steps and door because there is a very slim chance with the top half of the trailer being built on top of a wooden floor over the metal frame using wooden studs for the walls the 2 halves of the trailer may not be "electrically" the same potential. Really doubt it but I never assume always verify. Just for grins I checked my own trailer and the steps and door read Zero ohms between them and I have a wooden framed trailer.
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Deb and Ed M
SW MI & Space Coast, FL USA
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There ARE extension cords GFCIs that theoretically protect everything downstream from the power source (or so I was told). I used one for my cargo van conversion, just to be safe.
Extension cord GFCI
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Gdetrailer
PA
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wopachop wrote:Good stuff thanks.
So for anyone following along you want to set your meter to ohms. (horseshoe lookin thing) Then touch the probes between 2 spots.
1. The extension cord ground pin and the trailer frame.
2. The extension cord ground pin and the ground slot of an outlet. If you have an exterior outlet drag the extension cord over to that location. Also remember to find bare metal or touch the head of a bolt that goes into the frame like it appears Mike is doing.
Especially important, in "Ohms" mode on the meter, the circuit must not have any live voltage.
Ohms setting uses the meters own internal battery to check for resistance, if there is any external voltage present in the circuit you will risk damage to the meter (and possibly yourself).
So, make sure the trailer is unplugged from any power source like shore, generator or inverter when testing ground/neutral/hot with a meter set to Ohms.
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Mike134
Elgin, IL
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Deb and Ed M wrote:There ARE extension cords GFCIs that theoretically protect everything downstream from the power source (or so I was told). I used one for my cargo van conversion, just to be safe.
Extension cord GFCI
You are 100% correct Use is now mandatory on construction sites. But don't think you can find a 30A or 50A for a camping application.
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mr_andyj
Georgia
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I didnt read eery post here,,, but
I had wired in an extra outlet in rv and the black n white wires got reversed. ONLY when something was plugged into that outlet was there a problem. I found out when laying on the concrete and would feel tingling when I touched the camper frame. Electricity was finding ground through the large contact patch of my body laying on the concrete.
It took a while to figure all this out.
Im wiser now.
I always test outlets Im plugging into.
I have never heard of an extension cored causing these issues. Makes no sense to me if the cord is good.
*edit. If the appliance you plug in has reversed black and white then that could posibly be an issue depending how it is wired, so unplug everything and start testing one appliance at a time
* This post was
edited 07/26/21 10:08am by mr_andyj *
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CA Traveler
The Western States
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The extension cord is only one part. There could be a problem with the pedestal plug, the RV cord or wiring or for some reason the RV frame or other metal parts are not grounded.
Furthermore both the hot and neutral should be isolated from ground in the RV and reverse polarity doesn't change that.
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noteven
Turtle Island
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I had volts on the skin of my trailer one time. I was plugged in to a house receptacle (15amp) while visiting. Got advice on this forum to check polarity at the source.
The house receptacle had reverse polarity. Probably since it was built. Connected the receptacle correctly and no more stray current on my trailer.
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larry cad
ohio
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CA Traveler wrote:The extension cord is only one part. There could be a problem with the pedestal plug, the RV cord or wiring or for some reason the RV frame or other metal parts are not grounded.
Furthermore both the hot and neutral should be isolated from ground in the RV and reverse polarity doesn't change that.
You may want to rethink your premise! "RV frame or other metal parts" not "grounded" are typically because the neutral and hot wires are reversed. Keep in mind a properly installed neutral wire is always grounded at the main panel. If the neutral wire is properly installed, the RV frame and metal parts are GROUNDED! If the neutral wire is not properly installed, such as reversed polarity, the frame is probably NOT grounded and in this case, the hot wire is probably connected to the frame. The OP has to find the reversed polarity hot and neutral wires.
With a properly installed hot and neutral wiring system, the green ground wire is redundant, meaning it is not necessary for a safe, grounded system. It is an additional safety measure, not the primary one.
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