Breaks and 12V system

[FloridaRosebud]

OK, I've got a 2006 National SeabreezeLX, Ford F53 with the V-10. Today while driving 65mph on I-95 I lost all 12V and the engine died. I was able to get it to the berm, and troubleshooting showed the altenator died. So I fired up the Genny, and in a few minutes I had 12V to the Chassis battery and continued on, knowing that when we get to NY in a few days a new altenator is in my future.

However, my brakes were marginal when the engine died. So the question - what do I do if that were to happen again when I'm going down an incline in the mountains? When the engine dies power steering is lost as well.

Any thoughts?

Al

[JRscooby]

Dutch_12078 wrote:
Thanks for letting us know the outcome, and I'm glad in the end it was an easy fix!

I agree with the thanks. But I would like to point out that 99% of electrical problems are very easy to fix. The hard part is to find them.
Anybody that is good at finding the problems will start where he knows power is, and follow step by step until find where power is not.

[FloridaRosebud]

Dutch_12078 wrote:
Thanks for letting us know the outcome, and I'm glad in the end it was an easy fix!

Yeah, glad this one was easy. I'm just embarrassed that I missed something this simple.

Al

[Dutch_12078]

Thanks for letting us know the outcome, and I'm glad in the end it was an easy fix!

[FloridaRosebud]

OK, looks like we (mobil RV tech and myself) ran down the problem. So I have to eat crow and defer to a couple of you guys who called it - LOOSE BATTERY CONNECTION. Yep, the Alt is putting out what it should be, the converter on genny or shore power is putting out what it should, no apparent bad connections, EXCEPT the positive on the battery terminal, which we could move with our hands. While I could blame it on the pounding we've been taking on the trip up here (which has been insane), we were able to tighten all the battery connections, but the main chassis positive was in fact loose.

Lesson - every oil change check the battery connections as well, which I should be doing anyway when I check the water levels....

Al

[time2roll]

Consider adding a voltmeter if the indicator is inadequate. This will give fair warning long before you lose power depending a hill or anything else.

[valhalla360]

FloridaRosebud wrote:
To add to the data, the little battery light has been flickering, indicating the output of the Alt is not good.

Flickering could indicate a loose connection. This might have nothing to do with the alternator.

Starting later may just be that the loose connection is temporarily connected when sitting.

[FloridaRosebud]

time2roll wrote:
Was there no warning light or gauge to indicate low voltage? Usually voltage will creep down from 13, 12, 11, 10 volts over a few hours if the alternator is failed. Something should indicate this condition allowing you to start the generator etc and avoid the issue.

It could have, but I did not notice it. I have no gauge, just a warning light.

Al

[time2roll]

Was there no warning light or gauge to indicate low voltage? Usually voltage will creep down from 13, 12, 11, 10 volts over a few hours if the alternator is failed. Something should indicate this condition allowing you to start the generator etc and avoid the issue.

[FloridaRosebud]

Everything worked great today with the genny running. Battery connections (posts) are clean and good. After shutting down the genny I read 12.8V before I connected to shore power. I don't have my load tester with me (at home) but when we get to NY I will be getting a mobil guy out there. To add to the data, the little battery light has been flickering, indicating the output of the Alt is not good. In addition, with the genny off, the MH starts fine (after charging the battery), so that pretty much rules out the ignition switch as well.

AFA my question, thanks for the answers. If I loose 12V looks like I'll be standing hard on the brake with both feet.

BTW - I need to spell check my stuff....Breaks in the title....duh....

Al

[rgatijnet1]

Didn't the F53 have an ignition switch issue in the past. I seem to remember that there were issues where the vehicle would not start but a problem with the ignition switch could definitely cause a loss of 12 volt power to the engine. Simple enough to check with a voltmeter as to whether or not the alternator is working. Check the battery voltage with the engine off and then start the engine. If the voltage increases, then the alternator is not your problem.

[wolfe10]

For voltage to go from "good" (i.e. over 12.8 VDC)to so low that neither the engine nor the electric brake boost would work doesn't sound like an alternator to me.

That assumes you were monitoring voltage.

More likely, there was a connection/fuse issue near the chassis battery. That would be more likely to result in voltage going from OK to doesn't work at all.

More insight on whether this WAS a sudden loss of 12 VDC or a gradual loss until voltage got so low that nothing running on 12 VDC would work would be enlightening.

[valhalla360]

As long as you are rolling, steering usually isn't a big issue.

The brakes still work but you now have to provide all the power. Biggest issue is recovering from the surprise. You may be used to supplying 5-10lb of pressure to the brake pad and suddenly, you need to apply 50-100lb of pressure. If you are slow to adjust, it may be out of control before you have a chance to react.

One question: Before the engine died, did the battery light come on or some other warning? Normally, you would have some warning if the alternator quit entirely but before the engine cuts out.

[Beverley_Ken]

Per opnspaces
“ I have no idea if it would work. But if the engine quits you might try shifting the automatic transmission down to a lower gear. Worst case nothing happens as the transmission is freewheeling. Best case is you get some engine compression braking to help with keeping everything under control. ”

A very interesting question, hopefully someone with real experience will chime in
With all the electronic systems in our vehicles, engine control modules, transmission modules , how much will actually work without and 12v power. Hopefully there is enough manual connection between the gear shift lever, the transmission and the rear wheels to assist in slowing down.

Ken

[rgatijnet1]

Not familiar with an F53 but do you have a mechanical emergency brake that you can use to slow things down?