Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Towing: 2013 Ecoboost overheating
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 > 2013 Ecoboost overheating

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dfreddrickF150

Houston, Texas

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Posted: 07/25/21 02:08pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I read a forum about Ecoboost here and someone said no one had posted about their Ecoboost overheating while towing, so here is one. As we were leaving for vacation yesterday, my 2013 F150 Ecoboost started overheating. I had pulled my 7000# trailer before with no issues but not yesterday. I was running about 65 mph when I got a warning on my dash that I needed to slow my speed to lower the temp but it was intermittent. I stopped and checked the fluid level and It ran at normal temps for a little bit, then go up quickly. I had an engine flush done 3 weeks ago in anticipation of this trip. It would go up and down but never returned to the normal temps until I slowed to 45 mph. I turned around, went home and disconnected the trailer, then took the truck back out on the road and I got it up to 80 mph with no issues. My suspicion is that the thermostat is sticking but I have never had one act like this. However, I did find a YouTube video where the guy had the exact same problem and thermostat was the fix.

Taking it back to the shop that did the flush tomorrow and will let you know what they find!

jdc1

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Posted: 07/25/21 02:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The thermostat would not know if you had a trailer or not.

NamMedevac 70

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Posted: 07/25/21 02:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Do you have an auxillary transmission cooler and extra fan??? I have used in 3 different Ram 1500 and 2500 trucks the green bottle of Rislone Hyper Cool water wetter coolant with dramatic cooling results in extreme hot weather running the AC in city stop and go traffic. Better than the Red Line water wetter I used to use.

Sometimes in older vehicles the lower radiator hose will collapse or partially collapse under high heat load stress but yours probably has the spring inside the hose. My last issue of truck overheating was due to air bubble inside the radiator but a radiator flush solved that problem.

Check your radiator cap pressure and they can do a thermostat check for intermittent operation.

Lwiddis

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Posted: 07/25/21 02:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

IMO a radiator flush without a thermostat replacement is an incomplete exercise. Possibly hoses too.


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time2roll

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Posted: 07/25/21 03:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

jdc1 wrote:

The thermostat would not know if you had a trailer or not.
Some fail to open 100%. Towing can make a difference.

For the OP... if you can tell if the engine takes longer to warm up it could be indicating thermostat is stuck partially open. Getting harder to tell with the dampened gauges and the warm summer.


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MitchF150

Puyallup, WA

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Posted: 07/25/21 03:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you just put it in D and T/H mode and just go to town on it, you just put too much boost into it for several minutes longer than it liked... That'll raise the coolant temps to trigger the overheat (limp mode) condition.

It's supposed to do that when it overheats so you don't end up with a nuclear meltdown.... Your truck did exactly what it was supposed to do when you were just pumping the boost to it.

These Eco's have great power. Just not great cooling when under boost for extended amounts of time (several minutes)

> 10 psi raises the temps the ECU reads so while you can usually get away with it for a couple of minutes, if you are just pumping that boost for longer than that, it's gonna trigger that limp mode.

That occurs around 250*. Then the ECU puts it in limp mode and tries to save itself.

I also tow a #7000 TT, but I monitor some additional vitals that the 'dashboard' does not and I also drive the truck by manually locking out the OD gears and not trying to be the first one to the top of the hill... [emoticon]

I'll bet that once you let off the pedal a bit, the temp dropped pretty quick.. That means the T-stat is working and you just reduced the boost so it was not a nuclear reactor.. That's what the turbos do when they are making all that great power..

Just not enough cooling to handle it.. Sucks for sure. I deal with it every time I tow, but now know how to monitor and use it and can still pull the grades at an easy 50-55 mph while keeping the temps no more than 225*

I know I'll raise heck for it, but it's just the fact and I would still not trade my Eco for a V8...

Good luck! Mitch
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2013 F150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab Max Tow Egoboost 3.73 gears #7700 GVWR #1920 payload. 2019 Rockwood Mini Lite 2511S.

theoldwizard1

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Posted: 07/25/21 04:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Rent a cooling system pressure tester from an auto parts store. With 5he engine COLD, pump up the tester. Your system should hold pressure for at least 30 minutes. Overnight is even better.

Early 3.5L engines would leak coolant into the oil pan. Too much would ruin the engine.

Grit dog

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Posted: 07/28/21 08:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lwiddis wrote:

IMO a radiator flush without a thermostat replacement is an incomplete exercise. Possibly hoses too.


On a 2013? LOL


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LITEPHIL

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Posted: 07/29/21 05:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If the thermostat was sticking, it would more than likely over heat and not just run warm. Also running hot at speed is usually a radiator flow problem and would be more noticeable when towing.


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mkirsch

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Posted: 08/03/21 11:54am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

On an 8 year old truck it is plausible to have cooling, water pump, thermostat issues regardless of engine.

I certainly hope you are not trying to blame this on the Ecoboost.


Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.

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