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 > Jeep Wrangler ReadyBrake Elite II Setup

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Y-Guy

Tri-Cities, WA

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Posted: 08/01/21 09:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

So I finally pulled the trigger to get our 2011 Jeep Wrangler JKU ready to tow behind our 2007 Winnebago Sightseer motorhome. While nothing earth shattering I figured I’d share the setup. Parts listings and links are at the bottom of the post.

Started off getting new bumpers for the Jeep, both front and back; Rugged Ridge Spartan Front Bumper with High Clearance Ends and Overrider. I used the Rock Hard 4x4 Blue Ox Tow Bar Bracket Kit (RH-8000-BO) as the connection point for the tow bars. The Rock Hard bracket comes with its own bolts/nuts and replaces any bolts from the bumper. The bracket is only sandwiched against the bumper and attached to the frame. Installing the bumpers and the brackets was straightforward, just time consuming and spent a lot of time under the Jeep.

Next up was the tow bar; I went with the NSA Ready Brute Elite II Aluminum Tow Bar, plus the NSA Steel Clevis Connectors for Blue Ox, which connects to the Rock Hard brackets, plus the NSA ReadyStop RS-5000 Break Away Kit. The installation of the cables for the tow bar braking and the break away kit were probably the hardest and longest process of the whole setup. While the written directions are helpful, but you're best to seek out some videos to learn from. I found this series by WeRmudfun. While the entire tow bar setup is top notch, the ReadyStop still seems a bit of an afterthought. I hope I never need it, but happy I have it, just doesn't seem as polished.

For lighting I went with a set of magnetic ANC Lighthouse LED Tow Lights with a 7 Way Round Plug. These are very solid, heavy duty cabling and a strong magnetic hold. I went this way since it is a 2011 Jeep Wrangler and coming up on 10 years old I may want a newer one. Plus having the lighting setup is helpful for other times too.

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Rugged Ridge Spartan Front Bumper
Rock Hard 4x4 Blue Ox Tow Bar Bracket
NSA Ready Brute Elite II Aluminum Tow Bar System
NSA Steel Clevis Connectors for Blue Ox
NSA ReadyStop RS-5000 Break Away Kit
ANC Lighthouse LED Tow Lights, 7 Way Round Plug

* This post was edited 08/01/21 11:09am by Y-Guy *


2007 Winnebago Sightseer 35J
2011 Jeep Wrangler

Lwiddis

Near DVNP, California

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Posted: 08/01/21 10:09am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Interesting report and great pictures.


Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2020 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AMP Lithium battery. TALL flag pole. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad


Ro"n"Joe

Full Timing

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Posted: 08/01/21 11:17am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Nice write up and the Jeep doesn't look that old. I hook a couple of bungie cords between the back of the brake pedal and seat as insurance to eliminate brake dragging


2020 Dutch Star 4328 on FL Chassis
2018 Grand Cherokee Limited
Ready Brute Elite Towbar & Road Master Wiring

Y-Guy

Tri-Cities, WA

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Posted: 08/01/21 11:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ro"n"Joe thanks for that tip, have you had brake dragging happen? I still love my Jeep, if they ever make Sahara Tan again I'd jump for one.

Alan_Hepburn

San Jose, Ca, USA

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Posted: 08/01/21 01:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We've got almost the identical setup on our 2020 Gladiator, except I went with the Standard Clearance ends on the Spartan bumper, and we've got the Elite instead of the Elite II. For the lights I looked at the CoolTech wiring harness but didn't like their price tag so I made my own for about 1/3 the cost. It's basically a switch that is installed in the Jeep's harness that switches the lights from being powered from the Jeep or the RV - simple design but requires cutting into the OEM harness.


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Alan & Sandy Hepburn driving a 2007 Fleetwood Bounder 35E on a Workhorse chassis - Proud to be a Blue Star Family!
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Y-Guy

Tri-Cities, WA

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Posted: 08/01/21 02:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks Alan. I may opt at some point to get the Jeep lights working, temps here have been around 100° and least time working in that heat the better right now. [emoticon] but plug in and play would be nice.

IB853347201

Eastern Ontario

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Posted: 08/02/21 06:09am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Nice set up although personally I would have gone with wireless tow lights to avoid all the extra cables running from the MH to the tail lights. in my experience, the cables rub on the paint which leaves scuff marks.


2010 Suncruiser

bob_nestor

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Posted: 08/02/21 06:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I did the same with my 2011 2dr Wrangler (same color too), but in addition I installed a CoolTech wire harness. That allowed me to use the Jeep's brake, turn and clearance lights running off my RV. I did also install a battery cutoff in the Jeep, but was told by a Jeep Engineer that wasn't necessary for the 2011.

Y-Guy

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Posted: 08/02/21 09:06am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

IB853347201, I may wish I had, just so many mixed reports on them I decided to hold off. Thanks for your input!

bob_nestor Thanks! I think they were out of stock but looks like they are back, this one is really just plug & play no cutting harness or diodes right?

willald

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Posted: 08/02/21 03:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Looks awesome, and great choice on the Readybrake, and magnetic lights.

Only one thing I'd caution you on: Be very, very careful, with the wire you have running back that goes against the side of the Jeep, I guess for the magnetic lights. Watch it closely the first trip or two, and be thinking about another way to route that wire. You may have to.

I learned this the hard way many years ago on our first trip using magnetic lights and running a wire across the hood and top of car to the lights in the back. Learned, that wires laying across bare, painted outside surfaces of a car is a very, very BAD idea. The wire vibrated, shook, etc. in the wind going down the road, and left horrible scuff marks in the paint all along the path it took along the hood and top of the car. Spent a lot of time and $$ trying to buff out those scratches, don't think I ever did get them out completely.

Ever since then, I've found ways to keep all wiring underneath the car, and off of all painted surfaces.

Yours may be OK since you ran it across the side and not the top like I did, but I'd watch it very closely the first trip to be sure.


Will and Cheryl
2021 Newmar Baystar 3014 on F53 (7.3 V8) Chassis
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