Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: After towing RV with bad batteries, truck blinkers...
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Tech Issues

Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > After towing RV with bad batteries, truck blinkers...

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 3  
Prev  |  Next
groundhogy

PA

Senior Member

Joined: 12/17/2014

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/05/21 10:34am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Im thinking melted something at this point, due to the fact that completely unrelated circuits are interacting.

But that is a great suggestion about the fuses.

Fisherman

Angus, Ontario, Canada

Senior Member

Joined: 09/28/2002

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/05/21 07:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

groundhogy wrote:

Brake controller removal did not change anything.

CLUE: So I pulled the tail light and had the bulb out to observe.

It is a dual filament bulb. Top filament for blinkers and stop. Bottom filament for nighttime tail lights.

When you turn on the turn signal the blinker speed is normal, you correctly see the top filament blinking.
But then you see the bottom filament start to light up . And the blink speed goes up.


I would suggest there is a very small contact between the positive side of the brake/signal bulb and running light. Just barely enough power getting to the bottom filament to cause havoc. Corrosion may play a part in this too, something on the back of where the bulbs are inserted.

Way back on my 94 GM, the brass buss ground bar(neg)on the backside of the rear lamp assembly was so corroded I had to solder a wire across the terminals.

bucky

Raleigh metro

Senior Member

Joined: 05/07/2003

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 08/06/21 05:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sometimes the clutch in my brain slips before engaging. Maybe the delay mentioned in the fault is due to a bad relay.
Often there are several relays in the box with the same part number. Swap the headlight relay with another one of the same part number and see what happens.


2005 Cummins 3500 2WD LB quad cab dually pulling a 2014 Blue Ridge 3025RL


NamMedevac 70

Reno

Senior Member

Joined: 11/09/2020

View Profile



Posted: 08/06/21 07:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When I had a similar problem several years ago it was a flasher relay gone bad. Easy to replace and problem solved. O'Reilly's has been great help to me on several occasions and saved me big bucks at auto repair shop.

Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

Senior Member

Joined: 05/06/2013

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/06/21 09:19am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

As mentioned flasher may be bad. They're cheap, truck is old, easy to replace, maybe time anyway.
But that doesn't account for no running lights or reverse lights.
Bad ground? Maybe but you said all lights grounded individually.
Wiring melted? Distinct possibility.
I'd start with the trailer plug in and work my way upstream. I think the early Powerstrokes were plug n play on the trailer plug from the main wiring harness to the tail lights. can you unplug that and eliminate it from the circuit?
Maybe take trailer plug apart and see if anything is loose, unhooked/touching another wire.

Good luck.

My last electrical fiasco was on my 86 GMC last year. Clean truck, pretty clean wiring, incorrect/intermittent dome/courtesy/cargo lights in cab. After spending far too much time on it, like 2 whole afternoons and coming up dry on any wiring issues, I discovered someone before me put the wrong style bulb in the cargo light!


2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29

bucky

Raleigh metro

Senior Member

Joined: 05/07/2003

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 08/10/21 04:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OP please come back and share the solution.

groundhogy

PA

Senior Member

Joined: 12/17/2014

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/10/21 11:03am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OP: Yes I'm still here. Thanks for the additional comments and thoughts.

On the grounds... The schematics i found show the lights grounded individually, but upon disassembling light fixtures, i found this not to be the case. I heard mention of a single ground causing similar problems.
F-250 2003. You lower the spare tire. THe ground is directly to port side of the spare tire winch on the inside of the frame. I cleaned it and it did nothing. But it was badly corroded.

The last couple days I have been trying to get the spare off. Ford has a security key on the spare winch to prevent theft. I didn't have the key (like a lug nut key), so I ended up using my dremmel to cut the wire rope that holds up the tire.

The flasher might be an easy one to try.
There seems to be a heating angle to this problem as if everything is cool, the flasher starts off correct speed, but increases with time.

I think next i will start with the night running lights and just get the voltmeter and do it the old fashioned way. Point by point working my way along the wire.

Here is another weird clue..
So looking at the schematic, there is the light switch that in running light position, allows 12vdc to flow to front running lights, rear running lights, and license plate lights.

Front running lights... fine.
License plate lights... fine (but dim and bright with blinkers).
Rear running lights.... off

If i can get some running lights, I will feel safer (from police) to drive at night. Right now the truck is completely black at night and I stick out like a sore thumb.

Fisherman

Angus, Ontario, Canada

Senior Member

Joined: 09/28/2002

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/10/21 04:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Take out all your running light bulbs and licence plate light, re insert one at a time until it happens, maybe wait a minute or two between replacing bulbs. Something has to give.

Gdetrailer

PA

Senior Member

Joined: 01/05/2007

View Profile



Posted: 08/10/21 04:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

groundhogy wrote:

Im thinking melted something at this point, due to the fact that completely unrelated circuits are interacting.

But that is a great suggestion about the fuses.


'03 in PA?

Time to take a deep hard look at the wiring harness from the back all the way up to the front, it is possible you have a crushed or partially damaged wiring harness.

Check your bed crossmembers, good chance they are rotted out causing the bed to drop which can pinch the wiring harness..

I was lucky to have caught and repaired 3 of the front bed crossmembers that rusted out and were holding up the bed by the paint leftover that didn't fall off on my '03 F250..

Also a possibility of water intrusion damage to any wiring harness connectors from the rear all the way to the front on that same harness.

Vehicle lights not working correctly after towing may just be a coincidence as all of the trailer lighting wiring is completely isolated from the vehicles lighting via relays and separate fuses.

While you are digging around under your truck, inspect the fuel tank straps.. You are way overdue on those buggers as they rot out even faster than the rest of the truck.. Had a '06 that the back strap rusted out and dropped the tank, the filler hose was holding the tank in place [emoticon] .. Ford had spot recalls on the tank straps on F150s but not on F250-F350 in early 2000's [emoticon]

Krusty

Calgary, Alberta,Canada

Senior Member

Joined: 04/26/2003

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/12/21 03:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Can you use your meter to determine if the fault is on the power side or the ground side? If power side, I think the wiring harness travels up the LH frame rail to the front and there should be a few inline connectors under the hood, above the LH front fender. Make sure these connectors are connected securely with no corrosion.


Krusty
92 F-250 4x4 460 5spd 4.10LS Prodigy
97 Rustler RT190
EU2000i
Garmin

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 3  
Prev  |  Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > After towing RV with bad batteries, truck blinkers...
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Tech Issues


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2022 CWI, Inc. © 2022 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.