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Getting Confused on what can I tow

dlongnecker
Explorer
Explorer
I have a Chevy Tahoe and I absolutely love it. I enter its VIN number on the camping world website and it reports back that my 2007 Tahoe LT has a tow limit of 8200 pounds.

I have scoured all of the manual for my Tahoe on Tow limits and there is nothing really definitive...it lists all sorts of models, which none look like my Tahoe.

I am interested in purchasing a trailer for my wife an I to go out on week long trips. I'm not a fan of trucks, so was hoping to stay with my SUV. I also like Class A's, but when we get to our destination, I want to be able to check out there area without towing another engine.

I am guessing the 8200 pounds is probably inflated?

I also assume that is 8200 pounds fully loaded? As when I click on any of the links from that camping world website, it lists trailers with a 6200 pound weight....so they are taking into account I will be loading 1500 pounds of gear into it?

When I go looking at trailers, what numbers should I be taking into account? I saw various forms of GVW abbreviations.

Yes, I am a newbie. I have looked at alot of the threads here before I posted.
14 REPLIES 14

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
Best way to figure out what your diff ratio is…

Tie a length of string on the drive shaft U-Joint

Roll the vehicle one tire rev using the valve stem as the datum

Count the number of full turns of string and that will the whole number of the diff ratio

Check the fraction of turn left on that string and that will be the fractional number of the diff ratio.

Remove the string

3 full turns is a 3.xx

3/4 of a turn is a 3.73

And so on…
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

dlongnecker
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks all for the replies. I appreciate your time and words of wisdom!

I agree to never ask the dealer for the information, which is why I was asking here.

From the inside label on the Tahoe
GVWR 7300LB
GAWR FRT 3600LB
GAWR RR 4100LB
Tires are Michelin LTX 265/70/R17
From the VIN Decoder: 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe 4WD 8 Cylinders 0 5.3L FI FFV OHV 325 CID

It also has a Tire and Loading Sticker and that has what to inflate the tires to. And say "The combined weight and cargo should never exceed 1447.

I tried to find the labels in my glove box that have the Gear Ratio in it, but they are not there. There are two spots where they should be, but they are smooth as can be, like they were never there.

I am thinking that I probably will not find a trailer I want that my Tahoe can pull, so I probably need to start looking for a truck 😞

packpe89
Explorer
Explorer
I'd stay under 5000# and 26'. Just my $0.02. Payload will be the key.

Sjm9911
Explorer
Explorer
+2
2012 kz spree 220 ks
2020 Silverado 2500
Equalizer ( because i have it)
Formerly a pup owner.

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
philh wrote:
what toedtoes said. Payload is most often limiting factor on 1/2 Ton trucks.


And moreso if the Tahoo has autoride. Personally, I'm not comfortable with beating the tar out of a 14 year old automatic air shock system.
If it's got just springs, then that's better.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

philh
Explorer II
Explorer II
what toedtoes said. Payload is most often limiting factor on 1/2 Ton trucks.

toedtoes
Explorer II
Explorer II
The towing capacity is only one part of the equation. You also need to look at the payload and potentially the axle and tire ratings.

Know that when you post those numbers here, you will have folks say you can only tow a tent trailer and some who will say you can tow that class A. 😉 So, you need to weed through those, ask people you know and trust who are familiar with towing, and maybe take a few test drives towing yourself in order to determine YOUR comfort level before buying.

As mentioned, do not trust the RV salesmen to know what is safe to tow and what is not. Most have never towed and have no knowledge.

Once you know what you can safely and happily tow, you will most likely have two numbers to work with: the actual max tow weight and the max tongue weight. The max tow weight should be compared to the GVWR of the trailer NOT the dry weight. The max tongue weight should be compared to 10-15 percent of the trailer's GVWR. The dry weight means nothing.

I recommend not looking at floorplans until you determine your weights. Otherwise, you or your wife will fall in love with a trailer that you cannot tow with your Tahoe and every trailer within your weights will fall flat. Sort of like looking at houses without your max purchase budget - what you can get will look dinky.
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Both born in Morgan Hill, CA to Irv Perch (Daddy of the Aristocrat trailers)

time2roll
Explorer II
Explorer II
I recommend you keep the trailer GVWR under the tow rating... whatever that turns out to be. 8700 seems like a lot.

ACZL
Explorer
Explorer
bukhrn wrote:
I think, if I wanted to know the tow limits on my vehicle (regardless of make) I'd contact the Manufacturer, (Chevy, Ford Dodge) or whatever, rather than asking someone who is trying to sell me an RV.
Most RV salesmen will tell you that you can tow a Tank with a VW Beetle.:R


Well weren't some tanks shaped liked Beetles?? LOL
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Lwiddis
Explorer
Explorer
My 2007 Tahoe did well with my 5200 pound loaded and wet WInnebago. Six thousand would be my max for it and the 2015 that replaced it. Watch your payload…the other important number. With the Tahoe’s short wheelbase, you’ll be blown around when 18 wheelers pass you.
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Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
07 = 4speed.
Presuming you have the 5.3 and 3.73s AND the vehicle is in excellent mechanical condition, I'd be at 6klbs max with a full size TT. And that will have you hugging the tractor trailer lane up the passes.

Shorter trips like you are planning, PNW mountains in every direction, old 'hoe with less HP's and 4 speed, I think a larger single axle Rpod type camper would be ideal.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

valhalla360
Nomad
Nomad
Depending how it's outfitted, a Tahoe can be an OK tow vehicle but it's not the ultimate by any means.

Assuming you looked up the correct truck when getting the rating, it's not "inflated" but it's not the only consideration:
- GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) is the number you want to look for on the trailer. This is the maximum weight when loaded and most people are close to this.
- UVW (Unloaded Vehicle Weight) is theoretically the weight when it rolls off the factor floor. No water, no propane, no battery, nothing in it...unless you plan to camp that way, it's not very relevant for determining what you can tow.
- In addition to the tow rating, you need to check the trucks Payload. This is how much the truck can carry directly on it's wheels. It includes anything in the truck or bolted on after market (such as running boards). There is a yellow sticker on the door jam that gives you the payload. The trick is the hitch weight counts against payload. A trailer should have approximately 12-15% on the hitch. Too light and there is a tendency to develop sway. That means for an 8000lb (loaded weight) trailer you are looking at north of 1000lb on the hitch. Add in a family of 4 weighing in at say 500lb plus another 300lb of stuff in the back of the truck...do you have 1800lb of payload? Often the payload runs out before you reach the tow rating.

Then you have the practical aspect. It may be rated to tow it but it may be a miserable pig doing it. Gas engines typically make HP by cranking up the RPM. Within reason, a properly maintained engine will be fine doing 4000 RPM climbing a hill. You'll make it to the top but it can get annoying if you are frequently in the mountains. A bigger engine can allow you to keep the RPM more sedate and/or allow you to maintain a higher speed on steep grades.
Tammy & Mike
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bukhrn
Explorer III
Explorer III
I think, if I wanted to know the tow limits on my vehicle (regardless of make) I'd contact the Manufacturer, (Chevy, Ford Dodge) or whatever, rather than asking someone who is trying to sell me an RV.
Most RV salesmen will tell you that you can tow a Tank with a VW Beetle.:R
2007 Forester 2941DS
2014 Ford Focus
Zamboni, Long Haired Mini Dachshund

NamMedevac_70
Explorer II
Explorer II
Please post size of your engine, rear end differential gear ratio, and door sticker weights for your Tahoe plus size and type of tires such as LT for truck tires, etc. etc. All this will help others to help you who tow heavier trailers than mine.