Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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I’ll pile on and confirm the same.
Our 31’ single slide, in the sun mid - high 90s outside, AC would pull the temp down to about 80F inside.
Camper is basically new, AC works fine and once the sun goes down you could hang meat in it if you needed to.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
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YC 1
Yuba City Calif./ Auburndale Florida
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Joined: 01/11/2005
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BobsYourUncle wrote:Thanks for the input everyone.
OK, guess it's normal then.
If I ever have to replace it, I'll put in a 15K unit.
I went from 15K units to 13.5 on our 42 foot diesel pusher. We have dual pane windows and cover the front glass from the outside.
We cannot see any difference in the size of the units. We live in Central Florida where it is miserable in the Summer.
Shade is your friend and getting sideways to the sun if possible.
Close off the sleeping area during the day if possible.
One AC in that unit will not keep up so adding one might be possible.
H/R Endeavor 2008
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wa8yxm
Davison Michigan (East of Flint)
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The problem is not enough "R" in the walls and roof. So too much heat comes in. Also the color of the RV matters. My wife wanted a darker color so even upgrading from 13.5KBTU to 15KBTU it got hot.
Clean the condenser,, run fan setting on high, best I can offer.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
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valhalla360
No paticular place.
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Joined: 08/19/2009
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It's certainly possible to get more than 20 deg below ambient...just not with an underpowered system.
Another option to mitigate is to change out the vents with ones that can be closed and then open up the dump vents right on the unit. Then close off the bedroom and focus all the air into the living room area. Now you aren't cooling the bedroom/bathroom during the day. At night, without the sun beating down, you can open them and it should do better keeping up.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
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GMH
Canada
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Joined: 08/21/2015
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Hi Bob. Thanks for your advice on my window issue. The airflow on your unit can be improved by pulling off the main grill and re-taping the duct inlets. Also a lot of units seem to have the divider between the warm and cold sides out of place which allows the system to short circuit. Check out this YT video and my thread here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a81Mq_hSzj0
https://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48171
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jdc1
Rescue, Ca
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Joined: 05/30/2011
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BobsYourUncle wrote:Thanks for the input everyone.
OK, guess it's normal then.
If I ever have to replace it, I'll put in a 15K unit.
Don't waste your money on a 15k unit. It's probably wired for a second unit. Same price, much better results. You may not even need another 13.5k unit. You can get a 9.5 unit, and be able to run it and the 13.5 you already have off the 30A you probably have.
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dougrainer
Carrolton, Texas
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Desert Captain wrote:Jack_Diane_Freedom wrote:Well you have a 32 foot TT with a large slide. 13.5 Dometic will never do the job in that size of a trailer. I would think that even a 15k would have trouble keeping up. You are seriously under air conditioned in my opinion.
My thoughts exactly. A 13.5 BTU AC is only good for anything 25 - 27' tops. Secondly no RV AC, regardless of size is going to cool more than about 20 degrees {F} below the ambient temperature. Since the manufacturer skimped so severely on the AC I would be wondering what else they cheaped out on... just sayin.
![[emoticon]](https://forums.goodsamclub.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/scratchead.gif "scratchead")
WRONG. the only 20 degree that is ever mentioned has to do with testing a functioning AC unit. HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH OUTSIDE AMBIENT. IF the RV has the correct AC unit/s it will get below 70 degrees in 90 and up temps. Doug
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dougrainer
Carrolton, Texas
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A 32 foot RV with a slide will still not cool adequately in higher temps with a 15k btu AC unit. It will do better, but not get below 75 degrees in hot climates. You need a extra 13.5 btu AC unit installed. If you only have 30 amp service, you will have to add a 2nd 30 amp cord and 20 amp breaker box to run that 2nd AC. If you have 50 amp service you can add the 2nd AC a lot easier. Doug
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BobsYourUncle
Calgary Alberta Canada
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Joined: 12/12/2003
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TT is 30A, so that's what we are hooked up to.
Oddly enough, there is no roof vent in the main living area, only one in the bedroom at the front, and of course 1 in the bathroom. I have Maxxair covers on both, and one of those cushion plug things to block the bedroom vent. FF in the bathroom. The skylight over the tub is tapered, hard to plug it. We keep the bathroom door closed.
No provision for a second AC.
They didn't "cheap out" with this unit. The build quality is the best I have ever owned in any RV. PCW in this era was known for a good solid build.
I try to keep the awning out, but have to retract it when the wind picks up. Putting a slide awning on is a good idea, I have meant to do that, but havent got to it yet.
Might go up there today and pull the cover off to see if it needs cleaning in there, I know the inside filter is dirty.
The vents can all be rotated and closed off if need be. I adjust to suit.
Thanks again everyone for all the input. May not see the sun today. The smoke is so thick I can chew it....
2007 GMC 3500 dually ext. cab 4X4 LBZ
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okhmbldr
oklahoma city
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Joined: 01/09/2010
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B Y U,
Have you thought about just getting a 12,000 btu portable A/C unit. They may not be as readily available in your area, but I picked one up on Craigslist for $150 about five years ago. Works great and gives the added boost of cool air when needed. I've loaned my to several people when their A/C quit and they were all grateful to have the little unit.
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