Skool me on cell phone boosters and install tips, please

[cbigham]

Hi,
Got a thor class c 23u...doing more online work, and many areas have low or overly crowded cell resources for Verizon. Occasionally, I get knocked off, can go airplane mode, get back on..then off..etc

I've seen the all cell on amazon for 479.99. That could do the job as we may change carriers. Any tips on install?


Thanks

Chuck

[ktmrfs]

goducks10 wrote:

ktmrfs wrote:

goducks10 wrote:
Why does there need to be a certain amount of separation between the outside/inside antenna's?
If objects block the outside signal pickup then wouldn't the roof of the RV block the inside antenna from the outside antenna?

a non metal roof/walls etc. are transparent to the frequencies in question. so you need about 15 ft seperation between inside and outside antenna to avoid feedback. Even an airstream with windows isn't going to provide much isolation. And most objects outside don't block much signal. Thats why a cell phone works in your house.

High water content does block the signal, but few objects have enough water content.

Ok thanks. My manual calls for 25' separation but I experimented and have the 2 antennas about 15-18' apart. I'm getting all green lights on the booster and my signal reading goes from -93 to -63 when placing the phone right next to the inside antenna. So it's working fine.

I've found that with the outside antenna up high (15') fifteen feet of horizontal seperation is adequate as well.

I often go from -120db down to -70db. And there are places we go that w/o the booster the phone has no connection but with the booster I can get a signal in the -100db range, adequate for most use. If the booster can establish communication with the cell tower your usually good to go.

[cbigham]

Thanks
I'm familiar with bit error rate on cell tech. I will get the weboost omni. Past experience screwing around with yagi ornotger more directional antennae are more work than I need. Usually if there's no signal at all, I'm in some sort of hole or there's a mountain blocking the last known tower. I'll likely move on.

Biggest headache I run into is the site has 1 bar intermittent. Someone uses more data, I get knocked off. If I put in flight mode, I can reaffilliate. For how long? Who knows. I'm guessing from some antennae I see at some of these sites someone is hogging what little signal there is. Booster will give me a fighting chance as well.my questions are now best install techniques.

Thanks

Cb

[phemens]

We have a campsite way way up north where we work from in the summer. Installed a 40' antenna (extending pole with guy wires) and a highly directional antenna, coupled with a SureCall booster and the indoor antenna. Omnidirectional and Yagi didn't work well for us, this antenna (Link) has to be pointed very precisely, but delivers up to 15 db gain (in addition to the booster), which is exceptional. We started with 1 bar signal and now get full bars and roughly 20 Mbps internet speed, which is fine for remote work.

[Gdetrailer]

agesilaus wrote:
How does this answer the OP's question?

External amps and antennas are not a fix for everything, especially if there is no tower close enough to you for the service vendor you subscribe to.

No tower signal in to the amp = no service

Reliable service requires several cell towers within 5 or so miles of you.

If you have one bar of signal on your phone direct, then external amp and antenna "might" help, but it might not.

Nothing magical about it.

Not to mention Verizon and ATT use two different incompatible methods with pros and cons between the two systems.

[goducks10]

ktmrfs wrote:

goducks10 wrote:
Why does there need to be a certain amount of separation between the outside/inside antenna's?
If objects block the outside signal pickup then wouldn't the roof of the RV block the inside antenna from the outside antenna?

a non metal roof/walls etc. are transparent to the frequencies in question. so you need about 15 ft seperation between inside and outside antenna to avoid feedback. Even an airstream with windows isn't going to provide much isolation. And most objects outside don't block much signal. Thats why a cell phone works in your house.

High water content does block the signal, but few objects have enough water content.

Ok thanks. My manual calls for 25' separation but I experimented and have the 2 antennas about 15-18' apart. I'm getting all green lights on the booster and my signal reading goes from -93 to -63 when placing the phone right next to the inside antenna. So it's working fine.

[ktmrfs]

goducks10 wrote:
Why does there need to be a certain amount of separation between the outside/inside antenna's?
If objects block the outside signal pickup then wouldn't the roof of the RV block the inside antenna from the outside antenna?

a non metal roof/walls etc. are transparent to the frequencies in question. so you need about 15 ft seperation between inside and outside antenna to avoid feedback. Even an airstream with windows isn't going to provide much isolation. And most objects outside don't block much signal. Thats why a cell phone works in your house.

High water content does block the signal, but few objects have enough water content.

[goducks10]

Why does there need to be a certain amount of separation between the outside/inside antenna's?
If objects block the outside signal pickup then wouldn't the roof of the RV block the inside antenna from the outside antenna?

[Acampingwewillg]

I live here on the "left" coast and my arsenal consists of (1) T mobile primary 55 plus plan cell, (2) a Visible phone on the Verizon network and finally (3) that ToGo data SIM on AT&T network.

There are still times, I won't have a signal but I do also have the WeBoost. I generally use the We Boost with an omni directional antenna and it helps greatly.

Back to the OP's question....two or three points....height of the outside antenna, quality wire between outside antenna and booster and finally separation between the two inside units(booster and indoor panel antenna.

[Gulfcoast]

Yagi antenna

I use a painter's pole from Lowe's and rotate by hand. The website cellmapper.net can show you the tower locations about anywhere you travel.

[Lwiddis]

Is your issue signal strength or bandwidth? Can’t fix bandwidth issues.

[cbigham]

Do you have a pic or tip on how you swap out the antennas? I'd like to mount mine on the driver's side ladder and route cable I think down flue for fridge. What yagi is it and how do you rotate? Most convenient the weboost or does the yagi need come up frequently? Thanks

[Gulfcoast]

I have the WeBoost Drive Reach... if I'm getting three or more bars on a phone the unit is useless, but if I only get one bar it will flat boost the signal into a good one. I won't travel without it. I can point my yagi antenna right at a tower and get a much better signal.

[cbigham]

Thanks for the replies, I get how the booster works. I'm also looking for info on how you installed the booster inside the rv, and routed the outside antenna wire into the rv? I have solar panels on my class C, maybe route down thru refridge flume on top? Glue the coax cable down to the roof using a wad of dicor? Sounds like omnidirectional we boost least hassle. Perhaps I can rig it for when I absolutely need a yagi I can screw that in instead?

For the poster about campgrounds.. we rarely if ever stay in established campgrounds. Usually boondock, occasionally remote established BLM or. National Forestcampgrounds. We're a riding, hiking or kayak crew. Not too urbane. Thanks

[pinesman]

rr2254545 wrote:
Waste of money - we have stayed at over 400 parks with Verizon and I can count on one hand the parks where we have not had service

I don't even have service at my home without a booster. Those who have often don't realize not everybody has, regardless the topic.