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blaczero

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Posted: 09/27/21 07:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just ordered this, and doing a calculation for a fuse/breaker.

This has a peak output of 7000w, 3500w sustained, amperage is calculated to 583amps. I wouldn't think I need a 600a breaker... what am I missing?

Gdetrailer

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Posted: 09/27/21 07:29am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Wire size?

Generally you size the breaker or fuse to protect the wire not the device connected to the wire.

With that amperage at 12V you will need a pretty large ga of wire and it will need to be very short length to reduce the voltage drop across the wire.

Hopefully you are going with 24V or higher input voltage of the inverter to reduce the wire size and amperage that will be drawn.

MNRon

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Posted: 09/27/21 07:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

3500W at 12V would pull 300A, that's a lot of power. Things will get hot if you plan on running that load for more than a few minutes at a time, not to mention your batteries depleting quickly. Typical RV installations use 4/0 wiring and a 400A slow blow fuse.

We have a Magnum 3000W inverter that I ran for an hour or two in 100+ weather this summer at about 200A (AC and other nominal draws) and noticed that even with 4/0 *short* wiring and sufficient battery capacity that it didn't like continual running at that level; we typically use for minutes not hours of high load (microwave, hair dryer, etc) and it's much happier.


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time2roll

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Posted: 09/27/21 07:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

350 or 400 amp Class-T fuse. 4/0 wire minimum or is there two input for two feeder wires?

Should have 800+ Ah battery for that load.

24 or 48 volt input would be far more practical.

What does the installation manual say?


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blaczero

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Posted: 09/27/21 08:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Have not received the unit yet, but I'll read the manual. I usually forget to RTFM

This is all self-taught, youtube, forum ideas that I'm building.

Thanks for the responses, I am building a system slowly and figured I'd buy a large inverter instead of 2 or 3 inverters as I grow.

I have 2 100Ah batteries right now and 200w of solar. Just trying it out to see how it works for us before I spend 10k+. The inverter was reviewed well and only $500

*edit*
Just noticed the inverter ships with 2awg wires, hah

* This post was edited 09/27/21 08:30am by blaczero *

Tom_M

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Posted: 09/27/21 09:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

One down-side of a large inverter is the current that it consumes with no load attached. This could be as much as a continuous two amps. Check the specs for the unit that you purchased.


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blaczero

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Posted: 09/27/21 09:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sorry, I mixed up my output and input...

7000 watt output / 110v = 63a

DrewE

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Posted: 09/27/21 09:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

At that price, the inverter is almost certainly a modified sine wave inverter. Be aware that it will work fine for many things, acceptably well but not ideally for other things (i.e. they may be noisy or run hotter and less efficiently than otherwise), but is incompatible with some other things--some of which may actually be damaged when powered by it, over time if not immediately. Among the things that won't work or may be damaged are most dimmer switches, variable-speed power tools, many electric blankets, and apparently some Apple (and maybe other brand) phone chargers/laptop power bricks.





Gdetrailer

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Posted: 09/27/21 09:29am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

blaczero wrote:

Have not received the unit yet, but I'll read the manual. I usually forget to RTFM

This is all self-taught, youtube, forum ideas that I'm building.

Thanks for the responses, I am building a system slowly and figured I'd buy a large inverter instead of 2 or 3 inverters as I grow.

I have 2 100Ah batteries right now and 200w of solar. Just trying it out to see how it works for us before I spend 10k+. The inverter was reviewed well and only $500

*edit*
Just noticed the inverter ships with 2awg wires, hah


2awg wire for 12V side?

Yeah, that rings of a cheaply made inverter.

Good quality expensive inverters typically do not ship with wire for the 12V side, the good quality inverter manufacturers typically let you select the wire size for your project.

2awg longer than a couple of feet will have too much resistance which translates into too much voltage loss.

I am running 1/0 just under 6ft total (neg and positive combined) feeding a Tripplite PV1250 inverter which has the surge capability of 2500W for up to 10 minutes..

The downside of running such a large inverter is the larger you go the higher the no load idle current tends to be which eats into your efficiency and battery capacity.. You can be easily looking at upwards of 2A or 24W of idle current 24/7 (basically 48 Ahr of your battery capacity per day) with no 120V load.

Conventional wisdom is to use a couple of lower wattage inverters for low wattage demands. You don't need a 3Kw inverter to run a TV, PC or phone charger..

For TVs, typically a 300W inverter will be fine and that inverter will use 100Ma (.1A)- 200Ma (.2A) at 12V (2.4Ahr-4.8Ahr per 24 hrs) with no 120V load..

blaczero

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Posted: 09/27/21 09:37am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

makes sense...

It's funny, if you look up reviews of inverters on the internet, a lot of times they'll include "didn't ship with wires" sort of thing. Maybe they're throwing them in to just check that box.

The inverter is listed as 1a idle draw, so 12w, which I thought was great. I want to be able to run a tv, computer, charge phones and laptop, and possibly run a dehumidifier if/when I need.

I have 0awg left over from the battery project so I'll end up using that from the battery to inverter and read the manual to find out what size breaker I need.

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