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 > Truck Battery discharging overnight

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Gdetrailer

PA

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Posted: 10/02/21 03:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Additional thought..

A "self resetting" breaker can cause a "ticking" type of sound as it will break connection on overload then after the breaker cools down will reset back to normal closed automatically. A short on one of those types of breakers can cause a ticking sound but generally it will take a minute or more so the click would be very slow.. Sometimes auto reset breakers would be used for things like headlights where a fuse might not be a good idea since a fuse would leave you stranded in the dark with no headlights.

Charge lines between vehicle and house batteries are a possible application for a auto reset breaker although Ford does use a relay and fuse on charge lines on their trucks, not sure about E series..

enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 10/02/21 03:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ticking you hear could be a circuit breaker tripping and resetting.
Charge relay would be in the battery control center if equipped with a complete unit.
From sate T alert manual:
Connect to wiring or circuit that CANNOT be turned off by a switch or
ground fault protector

* This post was edited 10/02/21 04:02pm by enblethen *


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DrewE

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Posted: 10/02/21 04:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you have heated mirrors, check that the heat switch didn't get turned on unexpectedly. Ideally (and I believe on my RV), they would only heat with the ignition on, but since they're added by the RV maker, it's entirely possible that some could be wired live regardless of the ignition switch state.





LittleBill

Scranton, PA USA

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Posted: 10/02/21 05:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

instead of guessing, get a meter, tie it inline with a battery lead, and pull fuses till the drain disappears.





Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Posted: 10/02/21 06:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

And slightly off topic since alternator diodes were mentioned. On Ford Triton motors, a bad diode can / does cause a cam sensor code.
Sounds strange, but true.


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Gdetrailer

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Posted: 10/02/21 08:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

LittleBill wrote:

instead of guessing, get a meter, tie it inline with a battery lead, and pull fuses till the drain disappears.


Or use a 12V 20W incadescent bulb in series with one of the battery leads..

Pull fuses until bulb quits glowing.

But there is a lot of fuses involved, since it is a E chassis build some fuse panels are Ford OEM and some will be the coach builder aftermarket add ons and locations may be pretty hidden.

2013 F series trucks typically have high current catastrophic fuses near the battery in the engine compartment plus additional fuse panel in the engine compartment for medium current engine/drive train items plus towing related fuses and relays..

Low current fuse panel on F series trucks which handle pretty much all interior and your lighting stuff were relocated to the passenger side kick panel (this kick panel is two pieces and has one piece that will pull away to reveal the fuse panel behind it) which is a departure from earlier trucks which typically had that fuse panel under the dash on the drivers side..

E series chassis may or may not have the same locations depending if it was and incomplete chassis (no cab) and the coach builder could have very well make further modifications and relocations..

YC 1

Yuba City Calif./ Auburndale Florida

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Posted: 10/03/21 04:27am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Replace the battery. Even a tiny drain can cause a bad battery to do very strange things.

IF your alternator is charging properly you have a very serious drain to take the battery to 8 volts.

A battery this old should be replaced without hesitation.

Batteries are not purhchased/bought. We merely rent them for a time. They can fail from the shelf or last far beyond what we should expect.

Since your battery has been run down so low many times it is crippled in any case.

Fighting customer resistance to "buy a new battery" over forty plus years diagnosing things, even though I never sold any car batteries, was like pulling teeth without novicane.

With a fire chief with a two month old vehicle kept coming back saying the radios were running his battery down and his "mechanic" said it was the radios running the battery down in just two hours I just gave up. Went to the parts store and bought a new battery for his new vehicle. Gave the vehicle back to him and asked him to see if it solved his issue. Sure enough, problem solved. I did not tell him how it was resolved until he reported back.

My point is, unless you have the equipment to tell me how much current is being drawn I can only use my vast experience to suggest what is the most common problem.


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down home

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Posted: 10/03/21 01:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would take it to an Auto Parts store and have it tested with a Carbon Leak Down test! Virtually everyone does it now.
A battery can show 13.4 volts charging or right after charging, and leak down below 11 volts n a short time.
Your post says the battery is dated? 11/14 that is just about 10 years.
The battery in my AMG s now 10+ years old and doing fine but.....
Wife bought a new Interstate, stranded on the side of the road, north of Atlanta in 2018. 2019 the thing failed. Showed 13.5 volts when jump started and run a bit. The Tech did not bother with the Leak Down Test and so down the road it wouldn't start the car.
Weak cells.

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