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moonlitsouls

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Posted: 10/09/21 10:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi guys , hope all is well. Im in the process of upgrading my solar system , with the help of the DIY solar forum online ive been able to create this preliminary diagram but im still a little confused about how the existing ac/dc panel will be wired if im not upgrading the stock /converter charger. A lot of the videos i see online involve switching out the existing charger for a hybrid unit that does inverting and charging , i dont need that. My only goals are :

increase solar capacity
add the dc-dc charger
fuse the system properly

and clean up the install as it was thrown together by the rv dealer who sold the unit to the first owners , thanks a lot for the help

i received this feedback below from someone on the DIY solar forum and i have no idea what he means , pls help me out

"You show no pure dc loads.
That means the only load is the inverter so its kinda pointless to have the connections between the battery and the busbars at 2 awg and then the connection between the busbar and the inverter at 4 awg."


i think my system is designed incorrectly

for reference , this is a thread to the existing discussion on diy solar , any additional feedback would be greatly appreciated

https://diysolarforum.com/threads/pls-help-me-with-system-design.29437/page-4


[image]

* This post was last edited 10/09/21 10:54am by moonlitsouls *   View edit history

pianotuna

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Posted: 10/09/21 10:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi,

The inverter is a bit small. I'd got to 1500 or 2000 watt. Running a device "flat out" is not a good thing. At least one member burned out an inverter by doing so.

Fuses should be "at the capacity of the wire".

The dc breaker from the solar panels is too small. If my batteries are hungry I get 17 amps from 256 watts of panels.

The wire from the solar panels is on the small size unless all four panels are in series (which I do not recommend).


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, soon to have SiO2 batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

moonlitsouls

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Posted: 10/09/21 10:57am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pianotuna wrote:

Hi,

The inverter is a bit small. I'd got to 1500 or 2000 watt. Running a device "flat out" is not a good thing. At least one member burned out an inverter by doing so.

Fuses should be "at the capacity of the wire".


thanks for the feedback , i never use more than 1000w , its perfect for me.

what are your thoughts on the comment made by the guys on diy solar? i think there is an issue with the design and how the dc loads are being wired?

pianotuna

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Posted: 10/09/21 11:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

moonlitsouls wrote:

pianotuna wrote:

Hi,

The inverter is a bit small. I'd got to 1500 or 2000 watt. Running a device "flat out" is not a good thing. At least one member burned out an inverter by doing so.

Fuses should be "at the capacity of the wire".


thanks for the feedback , i never use more than 1000w , its perfect for me.

what are your thoughts on the comment made by the guys on diy solar? i think there is an issue with the design and how the dc loads are being wired?


1000 running flat out is less efficient than a 2000 running at 50% load. Or are you saying your max load is only 500 watts?

moonlitsouls

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Posted: 10/09/21 11:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pianotuna wrote:

moonlitsouls wrote:

pianotuna wrote:

Hi,

The inverter is a bit small. I'd got to 1500 or 2000 watt. Running a device "flat out" is not a good thing. At least one member burned out an inverter by doing so.

Fuses should be "at the capacity of the wire".


thanks for the feedback , i never use more than 1000w , its perfect for me.

what are your thoughts on the comment made by the guys on diy solar? i think there is an issue with the design and how the dc loads are being wired?


1000 running flat out is less efficient than a 2000 running at 50% load. Or are you saying your max load is only 500 watts?



the purpose of this thread is to discuss sytem design and understand how my ac/dc panels will be wired into the system , im not concerned about my inverter size its working great.

* This post was edited 10/09/21 11:22am by moonlitsouls *

Lwiddis

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Posted: 10/09/21 11:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Never using more than a 1000 watts is exactly pianotuna’s point. Inverters should be sized for 1 1/2 times the max expected load for longest life IMO.


Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2020 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AMP Lithium battery. TALL flag pole. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad


CA Traveler

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Posted: 10/09/21 11:57am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I think he’s saying you don’t show the remaining house loads and the expected amps. So it’s inconsistent to show 4 ga and 2 ga on either side of the Blue Seas/switch. If the house loads and charger are connected to the Blue Seas switch then the different wire size would be more consistent than if connected to the busbars.

You can certainly have separate charger and inverter vs a combined unit. Just make sure your charger is adequate for the battery. I would question that as Li batteries are different.

Not sure why you show the gen, as I’d likely just show charger and it’s DC output to the house loads and how it connects to your diagram. Ie Your panel may have AC and DC in one physical panel but they are electrically separate (except for common grounding).


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Bob


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Posted: 10/09/21 12:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pianotuna wrote:

The dc breaker from the solar panels is too small. If my batteries are hungry I get 17 amps from 256 watts of panels.X2 You have the potential of 60A+ maximum on the controller output.

The wire from the solar panels is on the small size unless all four panels are in series (which I do not recommend).He said series connection. IF his panels have bypass diodes then serial has shade and wiring advantages and hence I'd recommend it.


moonlitsouls

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Posted: 10/09/21 12:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

CA Traveler wrote:

I think he’s saying you don’t show the remaining house loads and the expected amps. So it’s inconsistent to show 4 ga and 2 ga on either side of the Blue Seas/switch. If the house loads and charger are connected to the Blue Seas switch then the different wire size would be more consistent than if connected to the busbars.

You can certainly have separate charger and inverter vs a combined unit. Just make sure your charger is adequate for the battery. I would question that as Li batteries are different.

Not sure why you show the gen, as I’d likely just show charger and it’s DC output to the house loads and how it connects to your diagram. Ie Your panel may have AC and DC in one physical panel but they are electrically separate (except for common grounding).



thanks a lot. i have a progressive dynamics 45amp charger / converter , but im hardly ever connected to shore power

i am still unsure about how the dc loads are connected.

currently there is two sets of wires being routed to the battery positive and negative of the dc circuits , one set is from the SCC , but im going to rereoute that back down to the battery. It was installed this way by the RV dealer because it was seemingly easier for them to avoid having to wire the extra few feet to the battery compartment

i think the other two positive and negative wires come from the battery itself , but im going to take it apart and figure it out


once i figure this out , maybe then i can rewrite the diagram accordingly?

moonlitsouls

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Posted: 10/09/21 12:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

CA Traveler wrote:

pianotuna wrote:

The dc breaker from the solar panels is too small. If my batteries are hungry I get 17 amps from 256 watts of panels.X2 You have the potential of 60A+ maximum on the controller output.

The wire from the solar panels is on the small size unless all four panels are in series (which I do not recommend).He said series connection. IF his panels have bypass diodes then serial has shade and wiring advantages and hence I'd recommend it.




hey the 16amp breaker from the panels to the scc is because im wiring them in series , max amps will be 10

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