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Busdriver

Shepherdsville Ky 40165

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Posted: 10/10/21 06:54am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Have a 2019 Chevy 2500 hd , sometimes when I turn the key on to start , have nothing. When I turn the key off and on and take it out of park , all my dash lights come on than it will start. Any help?


Busdriver 2019 2500 Chevy Duramax , - 2017 Grand Design 303 RLS

theoldwizard1

SE MI

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Posted: 10/10/21 07:25am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Remove the battery cable at the battery. Clean the cable ends and the battery posts using baking soda and water and a stiff brush. Continue until it stops bubbling. Rinse well with fresh water.

When reconnecting the cables to the battery make sure the are tight. Lace a large gob of Vaseline over the cable end and battery post.

NamMedevac 70

Reno

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Posted: 10/10/21 06:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

After checking battery for full charge then do as oldwizard suggested. Also using a simple volt meter check for alternator proper charging and bat condition. Sometimes there is enough juice to turn on dash lights but not start the vehicle because of bad/corroded cables at the terminal or low bat charge.

I carry in all 3 trucks a small grey in color gizmo (volt meter???) with a black and red prongs and colored lights to denote condition of battery and if alternator is charging the battery when engine is running. Green is good, yellow is fair and red is dead. Alternator should be putting out at least 13.5 to 14 volts to proper charge the bat. I buy these cheap gizmos from auto zone, Napa, and O-Reilly's and been using them since at least 2001 and they have saved me from being stranded in remote areas.

* This post was edited 10/10/21 08:15pm by NamMedevac 70 *

BenK

SF BayArea

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Posted: 10/10/21 07:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The list of potential causes are many…

Bad ignition switch

Anyone of the other things that must be okay before the relays will turn on

Bad harness.

The brake pedal switch and/or the auto tranny’s ‘start’ contact/switch that only allows it to move out of park after it starts.

And a big ETC…divid and conquer is the way to isolate without a scanner. So have your truck scanned for codes.

Another too commmon and folks (owners, mechanics and tech’s) don’t know…

Have you jump started another vehicle recently or not too long ago?

While you with the good battery vehicle had the engine running while they cranked the bad battery vehicle ?

If yes, maybe your alternator diodes are fried or holes punched in the silicon that will soon fry the whole diode.

What happens is that the bad battery vehicle’s starter motor draws hundreds to over a 1,000 amperes to start (called inrush current) and that will compromise the diodes in the alternator. Maybe not the first time, but for sure punches tiny holes or melts portions of the silicon in the diode.

That then will have the alternator not charge well. Made worse when the ambient is hot.

That also has intermittent charging of the battery, which will spike the voltage that then punches holes in the battery plates.

Vicious cycle and have seen folks replace first the battery…to have it ruined by that compromised alternator diode…to then change the alternator…which then has high current draws from the dining battery…


-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

ferndaleflyer

everywhere

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Posted: 10/10/21 08:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Neutral safty switch

mkirsch

Rochester, NY

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Posted: 10/11/21 08:17am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Take it back to the dealer while it is still under warranty.


Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.

blofgren

Surrey, B.C.

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Posted: 10/12/21 08:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ferndaleflyer wrote:

Neutral safty switch


This was my first thought as well.


2013 Ram 3500 Megacab DRW Laramie 4x4, 6.7L Cummins, G56, 3.73, Maximum Steel, black lthr, RAM 20k sliding hitch, Retrax, Linex, and a bunch of options incl. cargo camera
2008 Corsair Excella Platinum 34.5 CKTS fifth wheel with winter package & disc brakes

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