If you are reading this, you either have a set of the Torklift Glowstep Revolution steps ("GSRs") already, or you are thinking about buying them. Years ago, I posted a "pro and con" discussion about the GSR at:
Pros and Cons
And I posted about the installation at:
Installation tips and tricks
Most of that info is still valid. But this is an update, with some new tips and tricks on the installation process as a one-person job, along with some comments (both pro and con) about some new features of the GSR.
First, the back-story โ Torklift sent me a free set of GSRs in 2015. They worked great โ we did a lot of boondocking in rough terrain, and these steps made it much easier to get in and out of the trailer. But in early October of 2021, I had a blowout of my right tire on my little trailer (a story for another time!), and the flapping of the ruined tire damaged the steps. (Blowout damage is an unavoidable risk on very small trailers, where the door is right behind the wheel well.)
So I called Torklift, hoping that they still had the dimensions of my original installation on file. They did, and they offered to ship me a new set, free of charge!
I was intending to pay full price, and I told them so. But they were very gracious. I also told them I would post an updated discussion of the GSR on RV.net, no holds barred, as you will see below. They understood that I would be as objective as possible.
I am impressed with their customer service โ their technical staff is here in the USA (in Washington, near Tacoma), they answer their phones, and they are quite knowledgeable.
So let's talk about a one-person installation. Before getting going on the installation, you will need to remove your existing steps from the brackets. Be sure to have on hand a full set of end wrenches and/or socket wrenches.
Most of the hardware will be 7/16, 1/2, or 9/16. I found it helpful to have some ratcheting closed-end wrenches, which are handy when working in confined spaces because you don't have to reposition the wrench like you do with an ordinary open-end wrench.
The GSR comes in two main pieces โ the frame, which bolts to the mounting brackets on your RV, and the steps themselves. Both pieces are shipped as one bigger piece. If you are doing a two-person installation, you are good to go โ no need to separate the pieces. The strong person will hold the frame in the mounting brackets, and the wrench person will bolt the frame into place.
But if you are by yourself, you will have to unbolt the steps from the frame. In my opinion, the relevant diagram in the installation manual (Figure 3.1.B) is not very clear. In addition to the "exploded" diagram, they should have an "unexploded" version with an arrow pointing to the correct bolts to be removed, so that there is no ambiguity. There should also be some textual guidance, sort of like this: "The two bolts to be removed are the ones that join the silver aluminum steps to the black steel frame."
Now that you have gotten rid of the steps, you need a way to lift up the metal frame so that it can be bolted to the existing brackets on your RV. I solved that problem with two automotive scissor jacks (see photos below).
I first grabbed my furniture dolly and covered it with a piece of plywood. I then put the jacks onto that plywood platform and put another piece of plywood on top of the jacks. Make sure the plywood platform is a little wider than the metal frame so that it supports the edges easily.
I then put the frame of the GSR onto the top piece of plywood. I rolled the furniture dolly under the RV and slowly raised the jacks to lift the frame into place between the mounting brackets:
Click For Full-Size Image.
Notice that although my driveway slants, I was able to use the jacks to align the frame to compensate for the slant.
One more tip -- instead of trying to balance the top piece of plywood on the jacks (don't do that -- it doesn't work, as I discovered), I fastened a temporary wooden extender on top of each jack:
Click For Full-Size Image.
As a result, the top piece of plywood rested securely on the jacks, making it much easier to lift the frame into the proper position.
Before you bolt the frame into the brackets, check to see how closely the frame fits to your mounting brackets. If there is a lot of room, use the spacer plates that were included in your shipment from Torklift. The spacer plates are a quarter of an inch wide. They have a strip of two-sided tape, which enables you to put the spacer into place and then raise the frame, while the spacer stays put. You might only need one of the spacer plates.
If your mounting brackets are within a quarter inch of perfect, you won't need a spacer plate โ just tighten the mounting bolts sufficiently, and you're done. Then re-attach the steps to the frame assembly.
The whole job took me a few hours, working slowly and carefully. I should add that I am approaching 70 years old and have a bad back. You do not have to be young and strong to do this job by yourself.
Some other comments:
This version of the GSR has much better legs than the older model. The portion of the legs that come into contact with the ground are made of high-density rubber and look to be very durable. The foot assembly pivots more easily than the old one did. And the length adjustment for the legs is better than it used to be.
Torklift redesigned the locking lanyard pin that secures the steps. It is safer than the former pin, but it is slightly harder to use. I think that the lanyard pin is a little too short -- it is hard to get a grasp on it to pull it out, particularly if you have arthritic fingers. Also, it might make sense to have pins on both sides of the GSR, rather than only on the left side, for extra security.
I hope this discussion helps future GSR customers through the DIY installation process.
Pros and Cons
And I posted about the installation at:
Installation tips and tricks
Most of that info is still valid. But this is an update, with some new tips and tricks on the installation process as a one-person job, along with some comments (both pro and con) about some new features of the GSR.
First, the back-story โ Torklift sent me a free set of GSRs in 2015. They worked great โ we did a lot of boondocking in rough terrain, and these steps made it much easier to get in and out of the trailer. But in early October of 2021, I had a blowout of my right tire on my little trailer (a story for another time!), and the flapping of the ruined tire damaged the steps. (Blowout damage is an unavoidable risk on very small trailers, where the door is right behind the wheel well.)
So I called Torklift, hoping that they still had the dimensions of my original installation on file. They did, and they offered to ship me a new set, free of charge!
I was intending to pay full price, and I told them so. But they were very gracious. I also told them I would post an updated discussion of the GSR on RV.net, no holds barred, as you will see below. They understood that I would be as objective as possible.
I am impressed with their customer service โ their technical staff is here in the USA (in Washington, near Tacoma), they answer their phones, and they are quite knowledgeable.
So let's talk about a one-person installation. Before getting going on the installation, you will need to remove your existing steps from the brackets. Be sure to have on hand a full set of end wrenches and/or socket wrenches.
Most of the hardware will be 7/16, 1/2, or 9/16. I found it helpful to have some ratcheting closed-end wrenches, which are handy when working in confined spaces because you don't have to reposition the wrench like you do with an ordinary open-end wrench.
The GSR comes in two main pieces โ the frame, which bolts to the mounting brackets on your RV, and the steps themselves. Both pieces are shipped as one bigger piece. If you are doing a two-person installation, you are good to go โ no need to separate the pieces. The strong person will hold the frame in the mounting brackets, and the wrench person will bolt the frame into place.
But if you are by yourself, you will have to unbolt the steps from the frame. In my opinion, the relevant diagram in the installation manual (Figure 3.1.B) is not very clear. In addition to the "exploded" diagram, they should have an "unexploded" version with an arrow pointing to the correct bolts to be removed, so that there is no ambiguity. There should also be some textual guidance, sort of like this: "The two bolts to be removed are the ones that join the silver aluminum steps to the black steel frame."
Now that you have gotten rid of the steps, you need a way to lift up the metal frame so that it can be bolted to the existing brackets on your RV. I solved that problem with two automotive scissor jacks (see photos below).
I first grabbed my furniture dolly and covered it with a piece of plywood. I then put the jacks onto that plywood platform and put another piece of plywood on top of the jacks. Make sure the plywood platform is a little wider than the metal frame so that it supports the edges easily.
I then put the frame of the GSR onto the top piece of plywood. I rolled the furniture dolly under the RV and slowly raised the jacks to lift the frame into place between the mounting brackets:
Click For Full-Size Image.Notice that although my driveway slants, I was able to use the jacks to align the frame to compensate for the slant.
One more tip -- instead of trying to balance the top piece of plywood on the jacks (don't do that -- it doesn't work, as I discovered), I fastened a temporary wooden extender on top of each jack:
Click For Full-Size Image.As a result, the top piece of plywood rested securely on the jacks, making it much easier to lift the frame into the proper position.
Before you bolt the frame into the brackets, check to see how closely the frame fits to your mounting brackets. If there is a lot of room, use the spacer plates that were included in your shipment from Torklift. The spacer plates are a quarter of an inch wide. They have a strip of two-sided tape, which enables you to put the spacer into place and then raise the frame, while the spacer stays put. You might only need one of the spacer plates.
If your mounting brackets are within a quarter inch of perfect, you won't need a spacer plate โ just tighten the mounting bolts sufficiently, and you're done. Then re-attach the steps to the frame assembly.
The whole job took me a few hours, working slowly and carefully. I should add that I am approaching 70 years old and have a bad back. You do not have to be young and strong to do this job by yourself.
Some other comments:
This version of the GSR has much better legs than the older model. The portion of the legs that come into contact with the ground are made of high-density rubber and look to be very durable. The foot assembly pivots more easily than the old one did. And the length adjustment for the legs is better than it used to be.
Torklift redesigned the locking lanyard pin that secures the steps. It is safer than the former pin, but it is slightly harder to use. I think that the lanyard pin is a little too short -- it is hard to get a grasp on it to pull it out, particularly if you have arthritic fingers. Also, it might make sense to have pins on both sides of the GSR, rather than only on the left side, for extra security.
I hope this discussion helps future GSR customers through the DIY installation process.
