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 > Bought our trailer, now come the questions!

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MT BOB

Montana

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Posted: 10/30/21 03:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

#1 That looks like an RV Designer switch. Their switches are rated for 10 amps. You could run 1 to 2 headlights off of it. However, lots of their switches use flat spade push on connectors,commonly called quick disconnect connectors.They can corrode, they can become loose where they slide on the switch.Can also corrode at the wire crimp.Pull out the switch,look for these.Also,look at back of switch,for signs of melting.
#2 Agree with some other posts, spray out latch assembly,wd40 will clean pretty well, but not leave a lubricant.So then spray with something.White-lube is good,and does not stain clothes.PB Blaster will clean and lube,but stinks.After all that,still does not hurt to lube the contact face with wax or soap.
Has been my experience on older campers, things get out of wack enough you have to pull the release while pulling in on the door. Door replacement can be expensive.

Lwiddis

Quartzsite, AZ

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Posted: 10/31/21 07:49am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you replace with LEDs, make sure you like their warmth or lack of warmth before you buy all of them.


Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2020 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AMP Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad


Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Posted: 10/31/21 10:45am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

That style of switch shouldn’t get warm or hot.
Our new camper has a buncha lighted switches on the main panel and those things get very warm. Kinda creeps me out, but must be normal since they all do.

And congrats on the camper! Lot of anticipation until springtime!


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Gdetrailer

PA

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Posted: 10/31/21 01:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MT BOB wrote:

#1 That looks like an RV Designer switch. Their switches are rated for 10 amps. You could run 1 to 2 headlights off of it. However, lots of their switches use flat spade push on connectors,commonly called quick disconnect connectors.They can corrode, they can become loose where they slide on the switch.Can also corrode at the wire crimp.Pull out the switch,look for these.Also,look at back of switch,for signs of melting.


Yes, typically many of those "designer" switches will be capable of 10A at 12V, that would be 120W of power.

The bulbs in question should not be more than 20W each so 40W draw on a switch rated at 120W leaves plenty of leftover capacity.

But, you are also correct, the back of the switches will be wired with flat QD connections. Not the most robust or reliable method since they often corrode in high moisture environments which leads to a poor connection with high resistance that creates heat. I also have seen those QD terminations loosen over time which also can create a poor connection with high resistance.

OP may want to pull the switches and verfy that the terminals and QDs are not loose fitting and/or corroded. Corroded terminations will need the QD connector cut off and replaced with a new QD. Loose QDs can sometimes be tightened by using a pair of pliers and gently bending the sides of the QD slightly closer together.

Changing over to LEDs can also be very effective since they draw less than 1/8 of the wattage for the same light output. 3W LED light output is almost the same as 20W of incadescent in Lumens. Two 3W LED bulbs is 6W draw instead of 40W incadescent draw but yields the same light output as the 40W incadescent..

CharlesinGA

South of Atlanta, Georgia

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Posted: 10/31/21 05:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MFL wrote:

You show a pic of actual switch, and then the light fixture? The switch should not get VERY warm, but the fixture/bulb will.

I have used a slight amount of clear teflon trailer ball lubricant on my door strike and latch pictured. Works very easy for a long time. I don't just wing/slam the door shut, most times, just push it shut, often times using the pull handle when doing so. RV doors aren't built like a truck door.

Jerry


I agree with this. When shutting a door, I pull the handle as if to unlatch it and push/pull it closed and then give it a firm push/pull until I hear the click of the striker. Slamming these doors will shorten the life of the door and latch dramatically. Also use a good spray lube down inside at the striker.

Get some GOOD LED bulbs to replace those 1141's. I recommend lamps from M4Products.com as they have consistent color and are a long lasting lamp. They are expensive but you won't be having individual LED elements burning out and the color will be consistent if you buy other styles of lights for various fixtures in the RV. I prefer Daylight but they have Warm White (yellowish) and cool white (bluish). They give discounts of 10% off for ten or more.

https://m4products.com/1156-33-3030-nw-n........tural-white-elite2-1141-1156-ba15s-base/

Charles


'03 Ram 2500 CTD, 5.9HO six speed std cab long bed Leer top and 2008 Bigfoot 25B21RB.. previously 2008 Thor/Dutchman Freedom Spirit 180. SOLD - 2007 Winnebago View 23H Motorhome.

profdant139

Southern California

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Posted: 11/01/21 09:48am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Charles is right -- you have to treat those latches carefully. They are not like doors in your stick house -- especially the plastic piece attached to the screen door.

If you slam the door, that piece can break. Don't ask how I know this.

So you have to re-train yourself and your family to first attach the screen door to the main door. Then pull on the main door latch to close the door manually.

Yes, this is a hassle. And putting a little sign on the door ("don't slam") helps, but it is not guaranteed to stop the habitual slammer (i.e., me).


2012 Fun Finder X-139 "Boondock Style" (axle-flipped and extra insulation)
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1320Fastback

Vista, Ca

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Posted: 11/01/21 11:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Amazon has 10 packs LEDs in warm or white. I went white in the back of the toy hauler and warm in the hallway and front bedroom. Bought a bag of spares and threw them in one of the storage lockers. So far none have failed after 2 years. They really reduce your electrical load and create almost no heat compared to incandescent.


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Tvov

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Posted: 11/02/21 04:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

profdant139 wrote:

Charles is right -- you have to treat those latches carefully. They are not like doors in your stick house -- especially the plastic piece attached to the screen door.

If you slam the door, that piece can break. Don't ask how I know this.

So you have to re-train yourself and your family to first attach the screen door to the main door. Then pull on the main door latch to close the door manually.

Yes, this is a hassle. And putting a little sign on the door ("don't slam") helps, but it is not guaranteed to stop the habitual slammer (i.e., me).


Yep, this is exactly what we do.

As a friend told me decades ago, this is a camper, not a house - everything is very lightweight and needs to be treated that way.


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2008 F-250 CrewCab 5.4L,
2004 21' Forest River Surveyor


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