Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Heki 2 Skylight Inner Frame Failure
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 > Heki 2 Skylight Inner Frame Failure

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Mikell

Gainesville, FL

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Posted: 10/31/21 10:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Anybody had this happen yet to their Heki skylight? The inner frame point where one of the black latches contacts broke. I’ve already replaced the latches once on my 16 year old unit. Now, I’m faced with a different challenge, repairing the inner frame right at the location of one of the latches. A new inner frame is around $300. I thought I would try some JB Weld at the brake, and supplement that repair with some sort of “scabbing” between the broken piece and the surrounding frame area. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

Mikell

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Posted: 10/31/21 11:25am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Correction. The connection points are part of the inside surface of the exterior frame (not the interior frame). The more I look at it, I’m considering running a 1” wide piece of aluminum bar stock (as thin as practical) down either the inside or outside of the exterior frame plastic channel the piece broke from, and riveting it to that channel. If I place the aluminum stock on the outer surface of that channel, I may be able to reuse the broken piece’s connection point. I could also run a piece of aluminum stock down the inside of the track as well, sandwiching the plastic channel wall between the aluminum.

JimK-NY

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Posted: 10/31/21 12:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Pictures would help.

jimh406

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Posted: 10/31/21 01:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I think aluminum will work. My frame broke years ago in the corner part way. It hasn’t been an issue due to where it is.


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HMS Beagle

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Posted: 10/31/21 04:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sadly, another Heki failure. If it comes to that, you can buy one out of Europe shipped to the US - the whole thing - for less than replacement parts cost here.


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Bedlam

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Posted: 10/31/21 05:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would JB Weld or epoxy the aluminum in addition to some rivets. This will create one solid piece and distribute load better on brittle aged plastic.


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Mikell

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Posted: 10/31/21 06:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

[image]
[image]

notsobigjoe

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Posted: 11/01/21 04:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

That will hold solid with some JB weld. Clean It up and sand both sides. Is there any way you can loosen the knob a little bit to not be so tight. I'd try to fix it. These things are real expensive.

joerg68

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Posted: 11/02/21 01:06am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Not sure what material Heki uses for the frame ... some plastics are very difficult to bond. We have a Heki in our camper, and the plastic "feels" like it can be glued with the right glue. I would double it up with an overlapping strip of ABS plastic or Aluminum (or something else that will adhere well) from the back side.

Degrease and clean the surfaces well and sand with 180, 240 or 320 sandpaper to make the glue adhere well. Use clothespins or similar to keep everything together until dry.

Can't really recommend a glue from here, we have different brand names here in Europe. I would use a good epoxy glue. No cyanacrylates, they bond really well but don't like long term exposure to moisture.


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ticki2

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Posted: 11/02/21 06:20am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Mikell wrote:

Correction. The connection points are part of the inside surface of the exterior frame (not the interior frame). The more I look at it, I’m considering running a 1” wide piece of aluminum bar stock (as thin as practical) down either the inside or outside of the exterior frame plastic channel the piece broke from, and riveting it to that channel. If I place the aluminum stock on the outer surface of that channel, I may be able to reuse the broken piece’s connection point. I could also run a piece of aluminum stock down the inside of the track as well, sandwiching the plastic channel wall between the aluminum.


This is the approach I would use . I would use an adhesive but not rely on it alone having the forces of the lock lip on it . Sandwiched with aluminum and riveted will probably hold up , you can only try , I have use similar repair on other projects with success . Good luck .


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