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NRALIFR

Let’s Go Girls! [End of Quote]

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Posted: 12/30/21 06:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Did you know that -40C and -40F are equal, identical, and equivalent???

And just as cold as each other!?!?

I didn’t. Till I looked it up.

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BobsYourUncle

Calgary Alberta Canada

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Posted: 12/30/21 07:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

NRALIFR wrote:

Did you know that -40C and -40F are equal, identical, and equivalent???

And just as cold as each other!?!?

I didn’t. Till I looked it up.

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I knew that!
But then I am a Canuck and work outside in the cold, so I pay attention. I grew up with Fahrenheit and missed the transition in grade school because I living in Europe as an Air Force brat. I've had to deal with both systems, so I learned the minus 40 thing out of curiosity.


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Bobbo

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Posted: 12/30/21 08:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pianotuna wrote:

Li other than Lithium Titinate do not meet my needs. SiO2 do. It is that simple.

If I were to build a heated garage that would fit my RV then any old battery would do. Of course that's not possible as I live now in an apartment style condo. Somehow I think that would cost more than SiO2, too.

We all accept that only SiO2 meets your needs. The problem is that you are trying to tell us that only SiO2 will meet OUR needs. One size does NOT fit all.


Bobbo and Lin
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time2roll

Southern California

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Posted: 12/30/21 08:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

valhalla360 wrote:

StirCrazy wrote:


the ops case is extream, but not uncomon. I have taken a camper across country in -35 and it isnt fun.


Even the OP admits, he has highly modified his RV for cold weather.
And somehow the modification can keep himself warm but not a battery.

* This post was edited 12/30/21 08:58pm by time2roll *


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pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 12/30/21 09:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

time2roll wrote:

And somehow the modification can keep himself warm but not a battery.


Hi time2roll,

The OEM battery box had room for 3 group 29. It is open to the elements on the rear, originally with a slide out tray.

I chose to "give up" the storage bay closest to the OEM batteries. The floor was beefed up with 5/8" plywood and a steel brace was welded underneath. It has a vent to the great outdoors on the upper rear wall, and another on the lower front wall. It can hold 4 group 29 batteries.

So both banks tend to be at the ambient outdoor temperature.

The rv does have enclosed waste tanks. I added a 120 volt outlet and use a mechanical thermostat to operate a fan based 600 watt heater to prevent freezing.

The return air grill for the furnace was replaced with a twin window fan, which happily pressurizes the furnace duct work. Long tube heaters and a 240 incandescent bulb are controlled by a mechanical thermostat inside the cupboards between the water pump and the outside wall.

The fridge is protected with a thermocube operating a 60 watt incandescent bulb. Air flow is deliberately restricted by twin computer fans in a mask at the top of the chimney. These are thermostatically controlled to boost cooling in the summer time.

The floors are covered by tempertec electric heated carpets. These are based on a carbon so it is possible to have holes for the dinette table supports.

I've added electrical outlets in the hose storage area, and in the pass through storage. These are switched from the interior of the RV.

I have a magnetic heater that may be used on either the generator, or the fixed propane tank. So far, I've not had to use it.

The wheel wells were bare metal inside the RV. I've added as much insulation as I can.

Additional insulation included insulbright covers for all windows, vents, skylights, door, and the cab area.

I've toyed with the idea of using spray foam on the bottom, but I'm afraid of leaks developing.

There are several other modifications--but these are what came to mind first.


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, soon to have SiO2 batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

jaycocreek

Idaho

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Posted: 12/31/21 05:33am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I see the point of this post..Not many have been in an RV at those temps,I have working..Stanley Idaho (R-54F) and McCall Idaho (R-34F)..It's tough on an RV,period..After many mods I/we found it just easier to winterize somewhere around 0 degree's F and use wood heat rather than the constant monitoring of propane bottles..I have two 25# bottles I used in parallel and they were constantly running out at the wrong time..LOL

As for batteries,I would never consider Lifepo4 in those temps,to many things can happen unexpectedly..The SIO2 seem to be the answer for those conditions..Again,those temps are extremely hard on an RV in so many ways..


Jayco


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StirCrazy

Kamloops, BC, Canada

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Posted: 12/31/21 06:15am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

valhalla360 wrote:

StirCrazy wrote:


the ops case is extream, but not uncomon. I have taken a camper across country in -35 and it isnt fun.


It is both extreme and uncommon.

As a kid we used to go snowmobiling in northern Michigan...never saw anything close to -40C.

Vast majority of RVs get put to bed for the winter before the first flurries fly.

Even the OP admits, he has highly modified his RV for cold weather.


I'll rephrase that and add in "most of canada". growing up in alberta it wasnt uncommon to go out on the snowmobilds at -40 and -35 cold snaps in alberta sask and manatoba are just the normal. heck it was tickling -35 at work in BC this last week. I understand his delema as he uses his rv for a travling hotel for his work, but his insistance that LI won't work is the issue.

they won't work because he doesnt want them to, is more the answer. with the small size capability he could easily build his own for far cheeper than the SIO2 end up with 3 times the capacity in the summer and about 6 times the capacity at -40.

because of the smaller form factor he could put ridgid foam lining the whole battery tray and put a few 12V heating pads on them. so before he leaves home the batteries would be warm and then driving the coach stays warm, not going to tell me he doesnt use a block heater at thoes temps or the old coach would never start.

if this coach is so highly modified, why is he afraid to do another for the purpose of giving him the most available power possible... we'll never know


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StirCrazy

Kamloops, BC, Canada

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Posted: 12/31/21 06:22am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pianotuna wrote:

time2roll wrote:

And somehow the modification can keep himself warm but not a battery.


Hi time2roll,

The OEM battery box had room for 3 group 29. It is open to the elements on the rear, originally with a slide out tray.

I chose to "give up" the storage bay closest to the OEM batteries. The floor was beefed up with 5/8" plywood and a steel brace was welded underneath. It has a vent to the great outdoors on the upper rear wall, and another on the lower front wall. It can hold 4 group 29 batteries.

So both banks tend to be at the ambient outdoor temperature.

The rv does have enclosed waste tanks. I added a 120 volt outlet and use a mechanical thermostat to operate a fan based 600 watt heater to prevent freezing.

The return air grill for the furnace was replaced with a twin window fan, which happily pressurizes the furnace duct work. Long tube heaters and a 240 incandescent bulb are controlled by a mechanical thermostat inside the cupboards between the water pump and the outside wall.

The fridge is protected with a thermocube operating a 60 watt incandescent bulb. Air flow is deliberately restricted by twin computer fans in a mask at the top of the chimney. These are thermostatically controlled to boost cooling in the summer time.

The floors are covered by tempertec electric heated carpets. These are based on a carbon so it is possible to have holes for the dinette table supports.

I've added electrical outlets in the hose storage area, and in the pass through storage. These are switched from the interior of the RV.

I have a magnetic heater that may be used on either the generator, or the fixed propane tank. So far, I've not had to use it.

The wheel wells were bare metal inside the RV. I've added as much insulation as I can.

Additional insulation included insulbright covers for all windows, vents, skylights, door, and the cab area.

I've toyed with the idea of using spray foam on the bottom, but I'm afraid of leaks developing.

There are several other modifications--but these are what came to mind first.


nice, Ill have to pick your brain about the carpet at a later date. so the storage area , could you not insulate that from the outside and have itheated in some manor, say heating pads or such same with your original battery spot. they could be sealed as there is no offgasing with LFP and insulated with ridgid foam and heating pads (12V or 120V ) since you seam pretty handy and you can hook up multiple batteries togeather you would have no problem rolling your own there is a ton of potential for more power than you could want.

StirCrazy

Kamloops, BC, Canada

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Posted: 12/31/21 06:25am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

jaycocreek wrote:

I see the point of this post..Not many have been in an RV at those temps,I have working..Stanley Idaho (R-54F) and McCall Idaho (R-34F)..It's tough on an RV,period..After many mods I/we found it just easier to winterize somewhere around 0 degree's F and use wood heat rather than the constant monitoring of propane bottles..I have two 25# bottles I used in parallel and they were constantly running out at the wrong time..LOL

As for batteries,I would never consider Lifepo4 in those temps,to many things can happen unexpectedly..The SIO2 seem to be the answer for those conditions..Again,those temps are extremely hard on an RV in so many ways..


Jayco


I know people that live in rv's all year round in alberta. -45 and there warm as a bug but they have the big 200 gal propain tanks and they put bales around the outside with heating lamps under the unit and so on.

myself I have camped in -30 several times, not something I relish anymore but I would have no problems using LFP batteries but I am also willing to reloacate them into the heated space. propane wise it is what it is. you carry an extra couple tanks just incase you run out because you know your going through 20lbs a day roughtly depending on the size of the unit.

NRALIFR

Let’s Go Girls! [End of Quote]

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Joined: 11/27/2005

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Posted: 12/31/21 08:08am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Don’t Renogy and Relion (and probably others) make self heating Li batteries?

I realize that’s going to either use some energy from the battery itself, or from the charger, but the technology to use Li’s in extreme cold exists.

Do all the EV’s sold in the Great White North come with SiO2 battery packs?

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