cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

Installing new anode rod

Skipg
Explorer
Explorer
We have a 2020 TT we bought new. Used it full time for 5 months. I did maintenance on the suburban water heater. Anode rod 80% gone, and when I flushed the tank I got about a cup of sediment that washed out. This seems like a lot of sediment for 5 months. Is this unusual?
Thanks for your input.
24 REPLIES 24

whjco
Explorer
Explorer
fj12ryder wrote:
Dusty R wrote:
I remove the anode rod and never had a problem.
You may not have had a problem, but it's not a good idea to recommend it to anyone. Sometimes it's a good idea to stick to what the manufacturer recommends, they actually have reasons on occasion. ๐Ÿ™‚


I'm in full agreement. Anode rods aren't expensive and they're much cheaper than replacing a corroded hot water heater. If the anode is being sacrificed quickly, that justifies the need for it even more.
Bill J., Lexington, KY
2006 Starcraft 2500RKS 25' Travel Trailer
2015 Ram 2500 Big Horn 6.7 Cummins.

pyoung47
Explorer
Explorer
The anode is to protect your water heater. Magnesium will eat up much faster and likely gives more protection. That's what I use. As an aside, when was the last time you either drained your HOME water heater or checked the anode? I have one house with a water heater that is about 35 years old, and it still does not leak. I drain and winterize this house every year.

DarkSkySeeker
Explorer
Explorer
There is something special about camping in an RV.
.

otrfun
Explorer II
Explorer II
In addition to in-line water filters, we always use a small, 8k water softener (good for about 500 gal of use before needing recharging). It significantly reduces calcium/hardwater deposits in our hw heater and faucets, along with providing soft water everywhere we go.

wolfe10
Explorer
Explorer
deltabravo wrote:


Every RVer needs one of these for water heater maintenance


Another option is to just use 5' of cheap clear plastic hose. With water heater full, pump off, open a faucet to bleed off pressure. This leaves the water heater full, but zero pressure.

Remove the anode/drain plug, insert one end of the hose, suck on the other end to start a siphon. Move the tank end around to "vacuum" the bottom of the tank. Since the hose is clear, easy to tell if you have all the sediment out. If really bad, may have to turn on pump, refill and repeat.
Brett Wolfe
Ex: 2003 Alpine 38'FDDS
Ex: 1997 Safari 35'
Ex: 1993 Foretravel U240

Diesel RV Club:http://www.dieselrvclub.org/

deltabravo
Nomad
Nomad
Skipg wrote:
...and when I flushed the tank I got about a cup of sediment that washed out.

That sounds about normal for full time usage.

If I were full timing in an RV, I'd probably flush the WH about once a month. I'd also carry a spare anode rod onboard.

Every RVer needs one of these for water heater maintenance
2009 Silverado 3500HD Dually, D/A, CCLB 4x4 (bought new 8/30/09)
2018 Arctic Fox 992 with an Onan 2500i "quiet" model generator

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Skipg wrote:
We have a 2020 TT we bought new. Used it full time for 5 months. I did maintenance on the suburban water heater. Anode rod 80% gone, and when I flushed the tank I got about a cup of sediment that washed out. This seems like a lot of sediment for 5 months. Is this unusual?
Thanks for your input.


Yup. it's not unusual... Same with your water heater at home by the way.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
way2roll wrote:

Do you have any filtration? thinking I need to add a sacrificial particulate filter to my intake and it might slow down the anode's demise.


Speed of deterioration depends on what is in the water mineral wise and ph levels of the water.

High dissolved mineral content (AKA "hard" water) in water definitely takes a toll on metal plumbing and valves. The minerals in the water are what increases electrical conductivity of water and reacts with metals that it comes into contact with creating a galvanic action (sort of like a battery) electrical currents that eat away at the metal.

The anode is designed to be "sacrificial" and gives up it's life to extend the life of the tank.

Finding out what levels and types of dissolved minerals exactly is in your water and the Ph level may shed some light on why the anode is wearing out fast. Standard off the shelf filters do not filter down small enough to filter dissolved minerals, they are more about catching dirt.. For homes a water softener can remove enough minerals to help, RVs that may be a bit complicated to do easily.. But if Ph is off then you will need other treatments also.

I have very hard water with very high iron levels, can't drink the water directly as it comes out of the well red colored.. Run that through a whole house 10 micron sediment filter to remove dirt and large iron particles and that goes to a softener system that uses brine for backwashes. Result is good drinking water.

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
way2roll wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
Then you have anodes that don't wear out. This is 5 years of full-time use West Coast.



Do you have any filtration? thinking I need to add a sacrificial particulate filter to my intake and it might slow down the anode's demise.


I have a 3/4" whole house filter that all water goes thru.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

way2roll
Nomad III
Nomad III
Cummins12V98 wrote:
Then you have anodes that don't wear out. This is 5 years of full-time use West Coast.



Do you have any filtration? thinking I need to add a sacrificial particulate filter to my intake and it might slow down the anode's demise.
2023 FR Sunseeker 2400B MBS

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
Then you have anodes that don't wear out. This is 5 years of full-time use West Coast.

2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

Yosemite_Sam1
Explorer
Explorer
profdant139 wrote:
Sometimes the water in Yuma has a funny smell -- if you can detect it, you have a well developed scents of Yuma. ๐Ÿ˜‰



But I like your sense of Yuma.

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
Must be winter time if a topic like this is on it's second page already!
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
2oldman wrote:
Dusty R wrote:
I remove the anode rod and never had a problem.
Why?


Reasons to remove Anode

What Causes the Sulfur Smell?

A disgusting sulfur or rotten egg smell in your hot water can be due to many reasons. The two most popular reasons are the presence of a sulphate-reducing bacteria in the water heater or a chemical reaction between the magnesium anode in the water heater and the hot water. These two issues are fairly easy to solve and fix.

#2. Replacing the Magnesium Anode with an Aluminum Anode or Something Else

Sometimes, the smell is caused by a weird reaction between the magnesium anode rod and the hot water in the tank.



Generally, if you live in a area where you have a very high dissolved iron/mineral content in the water, you have a very good chance of this reaction.

In my area, not unusual for folks to remove or cut off anode rods to eliminate the foul odor.. Not saying one should do this as it risks having the water heater corrosion being much faster but it does correct the nasty foul odor you get in your face in a shower..