5er Noob Looking for a Hitch

[BurbMan]

Sold the truck camper and now looking at buying a 5er to tow with the truck in signature. We towed a TT with a Hensley hitch for 20+ years, I don't have any experience at all with 5ers or 5er hitches.

Truck has a spray in bedliner, no 7-pin plug in the bed at all.

One unit has caught our eye, the specs state that it's 9765 "shipping weight", 2360 NCC, and 1725 hitch weight. So if shipping weight is the dry weight, adding the NCC should give you a GVWR or around 12,125, and if 20% is on the hitch that would be 2425 pin weight.

What hitches should I be looking at? Suggestions on where to get one installed or is it DIY-able? What else don't I know?

[humblerb]

BurbMan wrote:
Lantley, good idea, I didn't think to check Hensley. The air ride is interesting, does it really improve the ride?

Regarding removal, maybe not plywood, but drywall...you pile a few sheets of drywall on top of a hitch and it won't look like much when you get it home. Also, DW is into restoring furniture...she's excited to have a truck vs. the old Suburban because she can bring home bigger stuff now... :R

I'm thinking an engine hoist make hitch removal easy, right?

I tried the engine hoist and got rid of it quickly. Needed something I could be in the bed of the truck when lowering. Couldn't do that with the engine hoist.
I wanted to hang a winch from the ceiling. This would have been ideal and I could just "store" the hitch in the air. But I can't back in my shop far enough to clear the raised door when it is open.
Finally determined I could use a chain fall.
I have a steel shop and have a steel header above the garage door.
I installed an eye bolt and hang the chain fall from the eye.
Works great for me. Once the hitch is removed, take the fall down and store it away.

[hondapro]

One issue when changing from a standard king pin hitch is you limit your options. If your truck has a break down and your 5er needs towed by someone else.

[TXiceman]

spoon059 wrote:
I'm researching now for the inevitable move to a 5er. I'm planning on getting a Reese Goosebox. It allows you to swap out your traditional 5th wheel hitch on your camper with a model that is approved by Lippert to allow you to use a regular gooseneck ball in your bed. No hitch to install, move, store, get in the way... just a regular 2 5/16 hall.

It eliminates the traditional hitch in your bed and reduces or completely eliminates the chucking you get from a traditional 5th wheel hitch.

The Goose Box is a ball hitch and requires safety chains. And a Goose Box will still chuck if the road conditions are such.

Personally, my feelings are that you will be better served by a B&W Turn-Over Ball and use it with a B&W Companion hitch. You can still totally remove the hitch and not have any rails in the truck bed.

[spoon059]

I'm researching now for the inevitable move to a 5er. I'm planning on getting a Reese Goosebox. It allows you to swap out your traditional 5th wheel hitch on your camper with a model that is approved by Lippert to allow you to use a regular gooseneck ball in your bed. No hitch to install, move, store, get in the way... just a regular 2 5/16 hall.

It eliminates the traditional hitch in your bed and reduces or completely eliminates the chucking you get from a traditional 5th wheel hitch.

[hondapro]

I have a B&W companion slider. I bought the lifting attachment that B&W has and lift the hitch in and out of the truck with my Kubota. I set it on a dolly so I can roll it to where I want it. You cannot go wrong with a B&W hitch.

[laknox]

I'm a B&W fanboy who also has a GN trailer, so when I was hitch shopping I ended up with both the TurnoverBall and the Companion. Love 'em both! Great company to deal with, too. Now, if I didn't have a GN trailer, I'd probably go with a puck system and get the puck-style Companion.

Lyle

[Mote]

Howdy Burbman,
We have the B&W companion in our Dodge Ram. When we purchased the truck it already had the B&W gooseneck so getting the companion was an easy decision. We were thankful to find a used one on craigslist for about 1/2 what a new one cost.
It's a nice solid hitch, with no play. However it is quite heavy. I lift it in and out of the truck with the loader on my 1025R.
Once out of the truck I place it on a couple of harbor freight furniture dollies.

[mlh]

If you opt for the B&W Patriot hitch, bump up to the 18k instead of the 15k (or whatever it is). The 18k is welded while the smaller one bolts together. I bought the 18k and installed the rails myself. It took a couple of hours and a couple of return trips under the truck because I couldn't reach some of the bolts. I needed to get some longer extensions, u-joint, etc. Now that it is installed, it doesn't seem too bad, but I admit, I was a little intimidated before I got into it. I am handy, but there was the thought of 10k+ lbs going 65 mph down the highway only being held secure by these bolts.

[cummins2014]

rhagfo wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

ford truck guy wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
"The only complaint is that it takes 2 people to remove the base."

Gee I had no idea! Guess I have been removing and installing mine wrong all these years with me, myself and I.

That is because you are a MANS MAN Ron ! ! :B

I guess 35 years in Construction helps.

I didn’t work construction, and don’t have an issue removing my hitch including the heavy picture frame adapter. I just work at staying healthily and staying active.

No issues here either, with the frame ,nor the hitch. I got tired of taking my 18 Reese slider apart ,so I went with a hoist in the garage. Then cured all that with a steel Andersen .

But I guess over 42 years as a steel fabricator didn't hurt either . 🙂

[ford_truck_guy]

That's what is nice about the Companion OEM Puck,, comes in 2 parts, heaviest is 78# and the other is 75#..

[rhagfo]

Cummins12V98 wrote:

ford truck guy wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
"The only complaint is that it takes 2 people to remove the base."

Gee I had no idea! Guess I have been removing and installing mine wrong all these years with me, myself and I.

That is because you are a MANS MAN Ron ! ! :B

I guess 35 years in Construction helps.

I didn’t work construction, and don’t have an issue removing my hitch including the heavy picture frame adapter. I just work at staying healthily and staying active.

[valhalla360]

JIMNLIN wrote:
The hoist is a good idea but needs a hard surface if you plan on rolling it around.
Some use a small elect hoist or a come-a-long dropped down from rafters in the garage.
My hitch is stored hanging from 12' tall truss ribs and a come-a-long in my trailer shed.

Just lock it onto the trailer pin (lock so someone doesn't accidentally release it). Then pull the pins and lift the front of the trailer. The hitch will go up with it.

Then when you want to reinstall it, pull the truck under fairly close. Then it's just a bit of jockeying around to line up.

The pin box is more than strong enough, so no worries.

[Lantley]

As mentioned the BD3 breaks down into 2 manageable pieces.
I also have a puck frame adapter that allows the BD3 to attach to the puck system with just a few clips.
While still not for me, removing the hitch could be done without a crane in 20 minutes or so once you got familiar with it.
The air ride is fantastic limits/eliminates chucking. Cerainly relieves stress and pounding on truck, 5'er,and occupants

[Durb]

BurbMan wrote:
Lantley, good idea, I didn't think to check Hensley. The air ride is interesting, does it really improve the ride?

A Trailer Saver hitch will improve your tow/ride with a fifth wheel as much as your Hensley did vs. a standard hitch, Here are a couple of things to consider:

The Ram puck system sprawls over the bed, wheel well to wheel well. MY Trailer Saver is 21" wide which allows 2"x12" lumber to slide in beside it, both sides. A hitch using the puck system necessitates its removal to use the bed. I've seen some hitches where product could slide under the hitch, but it wouldn't be much.

You can remove and hang a heavy hitch using the trailer's landing gear for those times when you need a full bed. I will say it is a pain to realign and install the hitch if using standard rails. I use this method when I remove the hitch in the fall and install in the spring. I lower the hitch with a hydraulic table and roll it into the garage for winter.

I installed standard hitch rails myself using Curt model specific no drill brackets. The 45 minute job took me 6 hours. It would have gone faster if I had a lift, a helper, and better instructions. Going forward, I would have it done professionally.

Good luck with your choices.