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JRscooby

Indepmo

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Posted: 01/23/22 07:37am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ktmrfs wrote:


I have 40 gallons of grey tank under the floor of my Pace cargo trailer I converted. there IS room. I put the fresh tank (20 gallon) at the front behind the counter.


I guess it would depend on the factory ground clearance and where you want to take the trailer. Guy I saw often on job sites had break and shear in cargo trailer. Had to grade a pretty good road for him to set up, compared to the trailers for white hats.
I guess I should mention that if I was designing for me, I would want the drain to come out bottom of tank, then elbow to hose, instead of out the side of tank.


StirCrazy wrote:

you dont want an "cargo trailer" you want an "enclosed car hauler" you may be calling them the same thing but there is a difference. the cargo trailer will be built a loght lighter and have a lower GVWR , the enclose car hauler will have a better heavier build and will be able to carry more weight. I have seen a few of thease kinds of builds and if done right they can look pretty nice.

Steve


Not sure you can't a cargo trailer the same size as car hauler, with the same GVWR. The floor might be designed to support weight over a wide area, instead of just the area of tire tracks.

Thermoguy

Graham, WA

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Posted: 01/23/22 10:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Not a cargo trailer, but a horse trailer with living quarters would do what you are asking. You might be able to find a nice used 2 horse bumper pull, not the long 45' trailers, but a short 2 horse. I have seen a couple with a pop out on the side for the bed, most amenities, and hauls 2 horses, this can be used for toys, etc. You would probably pay more than a comparable size RV trailer, but it is built stronger, solid roof, etc. It would also have all the plumbing and holding tanks, which I would think would be the hardest part of any build.

mobeewan

Hampton, Va

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Posted: 01/23/22 11:29am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

StirCrazy wrote:

you dont want an "cargo trailer" you want an "enclosed car hauler" you may be calling them the same thing but there is a difference. the cargo trailer will be built a loght lighter and have a lower GVWR , the enclose car hauler will have a better heavier build and will be able to carry more weight. I have seen a few of thease kinds of builds and if done right they can look pretty nice.

Steve


The enclosed utility trailer/cargo trailer, not toy hauler, not enclosed toy hauler, that I'll be building, has a 7,000 lb or 10,000 lb gross vehicle weight rating depending on axles ordered with it. It is 7 ft x 16 ft and I will be building it out to live in the rest of my life. Black tank, grey tank, 40 gallon fresh water tank under the bed, 800 - 1000w rooftop solar panels, d.c. compressor refrigerator & shower.

mobeewan

Hampton, Va

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Posted: 01/23/22 11:45am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

An advantage of building your own out of an enclosed car hauler or an enclosed utility trailer is that you can build it the way you want it. You can use better materials and better building methods than the cheesy cheap materials and construction methods used on most small trailers. You also don't have to worry about shaking and bouncing it apart when going down rough roads to camp in isolated areas.

If your truck is adequate you can get it there in one piece. I plan on living in mine for the rest of my life once it's built and don't want something that I'm constantly doing maintenance on because it's falling apart. I've got a 28 ft travel trailer and can live in it, but I won't be able to take it where I want to and I don't want to worry about it falling apart on me pulling it down bumpy roads trying to go where I can't get to.

Yeah, it's going to cost me more to build than to buy something ready made, but it will be better and I did mention I'll be living in it the rest of my life.

ktmrfs

Portland, Oregon

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Posted: 01/23/22 12:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mobeewan wrote:

An advantage of building your own out of an enclosed car hauler or an enclosed utility trailer is that you can build it the way you want it. You can use better materials and better building methods than the cheesy cheap materials and construction methods used on most small trailers. You also don't have to worry about shaking and bouncing it apart when going down rough roads to camp in isolated areas.

If your truck is adequate you can get it there in one piece. I plan on living in mine for the rest of my life once it's built and don't want something that I'm constantly doing maintenance on because it's falling apart. I've got a 28 ft travel trailer and can live in it, but I won't be able to take it where I want to and I don't want to worry about it falling apart on me pulling it down bumpy roads trying to go where I can't get to.

Yeah, it's going to cost me more to build than to buy something ready made, but it will be better and I did mention I'll be living in it the rest of my life.


One thing to look at if your going to travel off paved roads is ground clearance. Many Many cargo/utility/car haulers have pretty low ground clearance and often come with Torsion axles. That means raising them for ground clearance is a whole new axle set. you can specify the "lift" on torsion axles if you order a trailer to get the clearance you want. if it has a "conventional" spring setup likely may need to flip the axle, much easier to do.

When I looked "utility" "cargo" "car hauler" have basically the same GVWR for comparable sizes. My 7x14 cargo has 7,000lb GVWR, once you get to 16 or 18 ft you can easily get a 10,000 GVWR and it goes up from their. My 7x14 empty weight was 3,000lbs giving me 4,000 for cargo and stuff I added.

* This post was edited 01/24/22 08:25pm by ktmrfs *


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Harleybullet

Holbrook, NY

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Posted: 01/23/22 05:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Guys I do not know how we got to toy haulers and horse trailers but I am talking about an enclosed cargo trailer that every contractor uses. I have had 3 trailers 26, 25, and 16 years ago and know what they are. Most recently I had a truck camper with a slide but because of health reasons we sold it (big mistake they are a fortune now) I still have my Ram dually diesel 4x4 and it runs great 1999. We usually go out to Quartzite for Jan and Feb and then travel from NY.

a Vee nose 7x16 or 18 with barn doors with an additional 1 foot high is what I am considering, raising the height can be done by flipping the axal and then I could build the floor up in the front and would not have to worry about freezing of tanks. LP for maybe a wave heater and a cook top also a tankless water heater for shower. Better half wants a real toilet. fridge could be a small compressor type with less draw amp,
Am considering solar with acid batteries at least 2 and I do have a 2500 watt Champion that can run on gas or LP. I have built a room on my house so this is not a completely out of the question dream. Thanks

Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Posted: 01/23/22 05:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You haven’t been around much here I take it?
These guys scant stay on topic for more than 1/2 page of replies. And usually end up arguing with each other over something stupid like whether it’s a car hauler or a cargo trailer! Lol.
It’s like romper room for old men….


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Gdetrailer

PA

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Posted: 01/23/22 08:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Normal thread drift..

I looked at the idea of converting a cargo trailer, but really, they are even more expensive than a travel trailer of the same size.

They are much heavier empty weight than a travel trailer of same size.

Typically the smaller cargo trailers you would be considering are rather low head height unless you order one built to your specs.

HERE is just one example..

"

Standard Features

Ramp Door w/ Spring Assist (no extension flap)
White or Black metal exterior (.024)
12V Dome light with switch
ST205 15? RADIAL tires
Aerodynamic styling
Non-powered roof vent
Silver Mod Wheels
Aluminum fenders w/lights
LED Strip tail lights
32? Strap Hinge Side Door w/ Bar Lock
3/4? plywood floor/Painted Underneath
Wall members 24? o.c.
V-Nose with vertical ATP trim
3/8? OSB plywood sidewalls
Floor crossmembers 24?o.c.
1×1? steel tube in walls and ceiling
Roof members 24? o.c.
3500lb l/spring axles with 4? drop & Electric Brakes
75? Interior height
Screwed metal exterior
EZ Lube Hubs
2000 lb tongue jack
Galvalume roof
24? Stoneguard on front
2×4? steel tube main rails
7-way Round elec. Plug/ 2 5/16? coupler"



$4225.. for bare bones basic

To get what you want with extra height and extra options, you will have to go with the "premium version" At $5225 and the extra height is additional charge on top of that..

By the time you option a cargo trailer out your going to be easily $8K-$9K and that is before you even get started with making it a travel trailer..

valhalla360

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Posted: 01/24/22 12:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Harleybullet wrote:

Guys I do not know how we got to toy haulers and horse trailers but I am talking about an enclosed cargo trailer that every contractor uses. I have had 3 trailers 26, 25, and 16 years ago and know what they are. Most recently I had a truck camper with a slide but because of health reasons we sold it (big mistake they are a fortune now) I still have my Ram dually diesel 4x4 and it runs great 1999. We usually go out to Quartzite for Jan and Feb and then travel from NY.

a Vee nose 7x16 or 18 with barn doors with an additional 1 foot high is what I am considering, raising the height can be done by flipping the axal and then I could build the floor up in the front and would not have to worry about freezing of tanks. LP for maybe a wave heater and a cook top also a tankless water heater for shower. Better half wants a real toilet. fridge could be a small compressor type with less draw amp,
Am considering solar with acid batteries at least 2 and I do have a 2500 watt Champion that can run on gas or LP. I have built a room on my house so this is not a completely out of the question dream. Thanks


What are you hoping to accomplish?

It will be more expensive than a small toyhauler trailer by the time you get done.
A lot of private parks will not let you in.
And it's going look very redneck.

You can get all the things you list in a standard RV.


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JIMNLIN

Oklahoma

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Posted: 01/24/22 06:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quote:

When I looked "utility" "cargo" "car hauler" have basically the same GVWR for comparable sizes. My 7x14 cargo has 7,000lb GVWR, once you get to 16 or 18 ft you can easily get a 10,000 GVWR and it goes up from their.

I'm sure the OP knows about weights but many folks forget the 7k gvwr trailer doesn't have a 7000 lb of CCC.
Example one of my flatbed car haulers has a 10000 lb gvwr but weighs 2640 lbs leaving around 7k lbs of CCC....steel frame trailers of course.
The 18' 7k car hauler I had weighed 1520 lbs.
I'm sure a cargo trailer frames are about the same construction.

My neighbor lady has a 22' cargo she does house keeping and yard work (retired OTR driver). Her trailer sat really low to the ground making it drag getting around on new yard work sites and carrying a 4wd 26 hp tractor. One of our neighbors is a certified pressure welder flipped her trailers axles and added 5/16" side plates to the spring hangers.

Maybe I missed it OP but are you planning more roof/walls/floor insulation ??


"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers

'03 2500 QC Dodge/Cummins HO 3.73 6 speed manual Jacobs Westach
'97 Park Avanue 28' 5er 11200 two slides

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