Hardware costs for flat-towing (brackets/wiring/tow bar)....

[VA-Apraisr]

Seeking general estimates please. I know it will depend upon which brake system, tow bar, etc. but just wanted a general idea on the associated cost(s) to go from a tow-dolly to 4-down. Thinking of using RV more for travels and do NOT want to deal with the trailer anymore. Simple hookup and GO sounds a lot more fun and less stress. Thanks in advance for replies as always!!

[VA-Apraisr]

Thank you sir! Definitely follow up on your lead. Safe travels!!

[ferndaleflyer]

Apraisr I have a friend that lives in Glen Allen---small world as I come through there often. I'll soon be 81. Sure would have been nice to know you a couple of years ago as I sold a whole Blue Ox set up for $250 that came with my current DP. You snoop around you can pick those up cheap used--just keep looking. Sent you a PM

[VA-Apraisr]

Ferndaleflyer: I have a good quality tow dolly as well.....just a pain in the $$S to move it around and find a storage space for it. And I'm 61 and workout every single day 🙂 but that's a workout I do NOT enjoy (hence, the info for an upgrade!).

[ferndaleflyer]

BobnDot not trying to start a debate on this but--You speak of maintain on the dolly, couple of squirts of grease now and then and the bearings are good. I have never changed them in over 50,000mi, no registration, or inspection, I store it in the garage at home and have hardly ever had to unhook it in a campground. New tires once. And it works for all our front wheel drive vehicles year after year. And the dolly has its own lights. Sorry I hijacked the OPs thread and as I said before to each his own

[bobndot]

OP, if i click my ignition to ACC position , first click before “on” , to unlocked the steering wheel, the toads mileage will NOT register on the odometer. If i accidentally click it to the “on” position , miles will register.

[bobndot]

Dolly : As long as you don't mind to maintain a dolly that’s fine.
Brakes, tires, wheel bearings, registration, inspection , storing the dolly at home as well as a campsite. Some find it too much to do.

OP, as said depending on the toad , the 7 way plug has to be wired by you. You are adding an empty plug for your lights. Add a charge line besides the toad lights if necessary.

In addition to the 7 way plug :
Depending on the toad make/model, you might need a lighting harness in order for the lights to function as normal.
I skipped that step and drilled a hole in the taillight housing for my own rear lights, a socket and bulb. No harness needed.
Not a big deal to do either way. The mechanic that did my setup said it was easier and less time to socket and bulb it. However, that ‘only’ offers you rear lights on the toad, running, brake and directionals. No side marker or license plate lights.
For that , i just turn the toad parking lights on.
That’s another reason for a charge line installed on that toads 7 way plug. Make sure you use a fuse where needed.

[CA_Traveler]

The use of a charge line depends upon the toad battery discharge when towed. My Jeep doesn't use any power when towed hence a charge line is not required. Other cars vary even when the ignition is off.

In my opinion the draw from an auxiliary brake is limited and a charge line is not normally needed, but your mileage may vary.

[ferndaleflyer]

Reading all of this makes me glad I have for 15+ years used a $700 (at that time) dolly that has served several cars and only other expense was a set of new tires. I am now 80 years old and can hook that mess up in 10 min. But I understand some would and do feel different.

[larry_cad]

VA-Apraisr wrote:
On more question: many mentioned running a wire to help keep tow vehicle battery charged from the RV alternator system. Assuming this is since the tow vehicle ignition is on the "ON" position the whole time while traveling? So, the 7-pin hookup does NOT account for this, right? I was going to have my brother assist with this if and when I go this route, and just wanted a heads-up.

The auxiliary brake mechanism also uses electricity from the battery. On a long trip, it can run the battery down. The "hot" wire will help keep the battery charged. The 7 pin plug should have a hot wire in it.

[VA-Apraisr]

On more question: many mentioned running a wire to help keep tow vehicle battery charged from the RV alternator system. Assuming this is since the tow vehicle ignition is on the "ON" position the whole time while traveling? So, the 7-pin hookup does NOT account for this, right? I was going to have my brother assist with this if and when I go this route, and just wanted a heads-up.

[bobndot]

larry cad wrote:

CA Traveler wrote:
All Terain is so much easier/quicker. Blue Ox is liked by many - I don't have one but the prior factory demo? Really? Push the car back to lock one bar? Turn the steering wheel to lock the other? Can't tell when it's unlocked so use a 2x4? REALLY? Hook up the Roadmaster, pull the MH slowely and one will lock and a little side to side steering to lock the other. When stopped - release the locks. Did I miss something in the Blue Ox factory video???

I've used my Blue Ox for 17 years now and never once have I done ANYTHING like that! I pull forward slowly and they both click in and I am ready to go. 17 years and 140000 miles.

That's the way it does work for me, most of the time now. :C

When I first started using a toad I thought both bars had to be locked before I moved the MH. I was pushing the car backwards to physically hear and see the bars 'click'. I didn't realize it only had to be one bar, then the other would click in as I pulled forward.



I think my wheels were turned slightly the wrong way because my bars would fold inward on one side as I pulled forward. I had to unhitch it a few times to get it right .

The video shows the mechanics of it and helped me understand the system. If beginners have the same issue as I did, then the video might help them understand how to resolve an issue or how not to break something.



It was driving me nuts until the video taught me to simply turn the steering a 1/4 turn towards the unlocked bar. Then, as soon as I pull the MH forward a few inches both bars ALWAYS both lock in place.
My DW stays outside and watches the bars lock and it gives her peace of mind that she wont see our toad passing us while en route .:B
It's not a big deal for me to turn my wheel 1/4 turn ,im still able to do that. 🙂 Its second nature now, its something I expect to do I guess. It keeps peace on the Homefront. :B

I just realized that was part 2 of the install video. I didn't see part 1. That probably shows the initial setup and part 2 would be the mechanics of it. I apologize for any confusion and not seeing that.

[klutchdust]

wanderingaimlessly wrote:
Reading this has made me wonder something, I've not tried it, but may, would a 4 wire trailer plug and harness, with the same plug at both ends, be able to back feed your tail lights on the towed vehicle without needing to add other harnesses? Likewise would the same thing with 7 wire plugs on both ends maintain the towed battery?
Or do the electronics and diode setups in newer vehicles make that impractical?
Basically I'm asking about tying the trailer plugs on both a motorhome and towed together.

worked great.

[larry_cad]

CA Traveler wrote:
All Terain is so much easier/quicker. Blue Ox is liked by many - I don't have one but the prior factory demo? Really? Push the car back to lock one bar? Turn the steering wheel to lock the other? Can't tell when it's unlocked so use a 2x4? REALLY? Hook up the Roadmaster, pull the MH slowely and one will lock and a little side to side steering to lock the other. When stopped - release the locks. Did I miss something in the Blue Ox factory video???

I've used my Blue Ox for 17 years now and never once have I done ANYTHING like that! I pull forward slowly and they both click in and I am ready to go. 17 years and 140000 miles.

[wanderingaimles]

Bobndot, thanks