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On demand water heater and boondocking

dcason
Explorer
Explorer
So we are the owners of a brandy new Entegra Vision 27A and it has a tankless hot water heater (girard brand). Formerly we had a Jayco class C 25 feet long and this one is 30 feet long.

Hubby is seriously thinking of ripping the girard out as it wastes some much water (about twice)...yeah we can catch the cold gallon of water that comes out when doing dishes or getting ready for shower but it is wasteful! Anybody have any insights that we haven't thought of? Pretty sure we will be taking it out.

We typically could last a good week and sometimes more in our Jayco but now not so sure.

Donna
12 REPLIES 12

Oldtymeflyr
Explorer
Explorer
We removed our tankless water heater from our Thor Sprinter. It did not work for us. It was difficult for us to get the setting right, they never were, then if the water was shut off then it was the process of waiting for hot water. We never had endless hot water.

We like the tank system. Out new class A has a tank system. For us the tank system works well.

Lantley
Nomad
Nomad
One of the main advantages of a tankless heater is that there is an unlimited supply of hot water.
However in an RV you often do not have unlimited resources.
Often you are limited by your fresh and waste water capacities.
The basic concept of a tankless water heater is flawed when it comes to RV use.
Do you install a RV tankless for the energy savings and efficiency?
Simply put there just isn't that much savings to be gained vs. the versatility you give up by going to a tankless heater.
19'Duramax w/hips,12'Open Range,Titan Disc Brake
BD3,RV safepower,22" Blackstone
Ox Bedsaver,RV760 w/BC20,Glow Steps, Enduraplas25,Pedego
BakFlip,RVLock,5500 Onan LP,Prog.50A surge,Hughes autoformer
Porta Bote 8.0 Nissan,Sailun S637
Correct Trax,Splendide

dcason
Explorer
Explorer
Hubs did some research on this and Truma ARE pricey and only installable by them/technician. We have decided and ordered an propane/electric standard rv hot water heater....maybe atwood. The one in our old Jayco worked well for us. Hubs will install it when it arrives and THEN we will try the new shower out.
Thank you for all your input...confirming they don't belong in most rv's. It should be an option if someone really wants one not standard.

pnichols
Explorer II
Explorer II
I agree with the comments that on-demand water heaters in RV's are not necessary or even an "improvement" - especially when drycamping.

Our propane RV water heater is well insulated so it stays hot a long time without it needing to relight itself and maintain temperature. It uses very little propane anyway, and it heats up so fast that we just turn it on 15 minutes before we need hot water.

For optimum flexibility, I guess the only RV water heater type superior to a propane-only one would be a combination propane/120V AC one, so as to save a bit of propane whenever on hookups or to use a generator to conserve propane when drycamping.
2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C

Community Alumni
Not applicable
We owned a moho with a Truma waterless hot water heater and we did not waste any water. I suppose by Winnebago placing the water heater by the bathroom it had a lot to do with it. Also, Truma heaters are supposed to be very efficient (and pricey.) I have been told by RV techs Girard water heaters are not very good.

Lantley
Nomad
Nomad
Seattle Steve wrote:
Lantley wrote:
^^^^^ Is catching the waisted water supposed to be an improvement to the typical tank water heater?
Should I upgrade my 10 gallon heater and get a tankless so that I can catch the waisted cold water.
Tankless water heaters in an RV are not very well thought out.
There were designed by someone not logistically familiar with RV'ing.
Tankless heaters are a great option for a stix and brix home but they are not a good idea for an RV.


I guess "waisted" water is water that you wear around your waist?

As Wildtoad pointed out, the water in the line between the water heater (regardless of the type) and the faucet will be unheated. So, yes, catching WASTED water is always a good idea when boondocking, regardless of water heater type.

I'll take the spelling lesson. But to the point the difference between a tank of hot water that is sitting there hot and ready vs. a coil that is sitting full of cold water waiting to be heated is significant in terms of how much water is wasted!The water does not reach temperature instantly, epecially when the ambient temps are cold.
I agree you may save some energy but you will waste additional water in the process.
I 've never ran out of lp or energy while camping But I have run out of water:(
19'Duramax w/hips,12'Open Range,Titan Disc Brake
BD3,RV safepower,22" Blackstone
Ox Bedsaver,RV760 w/BC20,Glow Steps, Enduraplas25,Pedego
BakFlip,RVLock,5500 Onan LP,Prog.50A surge,Hughes autoformer
Porta Bote 8.0 Nissan,Sailun S637
Correct Trax,Splendide

Seattle_Steve
Explorer
Explorer
Lantley wrote:
^^^^^ Is catching the waisted water supposed to be an improvement to the typical tank water heater?
Should I upgrade my 10 gallon heater and get a tankless so that I can catch the waisted cold water.
Tankless water heaters in an RV are not very well thought out.
There were designed by someone not logistically familiar with RV'ing.
Tankless heaters are a great option for a stix and brix home but they are not a good idea for an RV.


I guess "waisted" water is water that you wear around your waist?

As Wildtoad pointed out, the water in the line between the water heater (regardless of the type) and the faucet will be unheated. So, yes, catching WASTED water is always a good idea when boondocking, regardless of water heater type.

wildtoad
Explorer II
Explorer II
To be fair, there is also wasted water on the std wh setups at the outlets too. The further away a faucet is determines how much cold water is wasted.
Tom Wilds
Blythewood, SC
2016 Newmar Baystar Sport 3004
2015 Jeep Wrangler 2dr HT

Lwiddis
Explorer
Explorer
โ€œUnless you are always in a full hook up site {and the OP is not}, tankless water heaters are water waisting disasters.โ€ X2
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

Lantley
Nomad
Nomad
^^^^^ Is catching the waisted water supposed to be an improvement to the typical tank water heater?
Should I upgrade my 10 gallon heater and get a tankless so that I can catch the waisted cold water.
Tankless water heaters in an RV are not very well thought out.
There were designed by someone not logistically familiar with RV'ing.
Tankless heaters are a great option for a stix and brix home but they are not a good idea for an RV.
19'Duramax w/hips,12'Open Range,Titan Disc Brake
BD3,RV safepower,22" Blackstone
Ox Bedsaver,RV760 w/BC20,Glow Steps, Enduraplas25,Pedego
BakFlip,RVLock,5500 Onan LP,Prog.50A surge,Hughes autoformer
Porta Bote 8.0 Nissan,Sailun S637
Correct Trax,Splendide

Seattle_Steve
Explorer
Explorer
Many people keep gallon jugs in the kitchen and shower to catch the cold water, then use it to flush the toilet, etc.

Desert_Captain
Explorer II
Explorer II
Unless you are always in a full hook up site {and the OP is not}, tankless water heaters are water waisting disasters. :S They will drain your freshwater and fill your grey tanks with equal speed. The venerable AC/LP 6 gallon water heaters found on most RV's have been doing their job well for decades.

My bride and I can take two quick showers and never run out of very hot water, even if I used it all the LP side will reheat the entire tank in about 10 minutes. We have steaming hot water at the kitchen sink in about 15 seconds and the shower/bathroom sink takes less than a minute. A full 40 gallon fresh tank lasts us nearly a week. In the warmer months we like to use the outside shower to save capacity in our grey tank and yes, these old folks always wear our swim suits {you're welcome}. :B

Assuming you have the room for a conventional AC/LP 6 gallon water heater budget about $500 for the unit {the internet is your friend} and another $200 for the install. If it comes in for less hooray. I "could" do that install myself but it can be a serious PITA best left to a qualified RV tech {my Indie charges $90 an hour most dealers are around $130+}.

As always... Opinions and YMMV

:C