wnjj
Cornelius, Oregon
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Joined: 01/11/2007
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Good to hear. Thanks for checking back with the results.
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ajriding
st clair
Senior Member
Joined: 12/28/2004
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Now you are learning RV stuff. congrats.
If you really need to charge the camper battery from the truck, then you can use bigger wire, and not go through the thin wires around the fuse box. Make sure that stud #1, that some say is on all the time, is NOT on all the time or if you forget to unplug the trailer from the truck you could run down your truck starting battery. You need the trailer 12 volt power to be connected to the ignition somehow, and not straight to the on-all-the-time battery. Sounds like previous owner did some home-brew electrical kanosh work...
but you got it working, so good nuff for now...
Other option is a DC to DC charger.
* This post was
edited 03/04/22 08:05am by ajriding *
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KKELLER14K
BEAVERTON OREGON
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Joined: 12/15/2006
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I may have been a bit misleading. So It is an isolation switch that you install usually on you firewall and beef it up with a bigger charge wire than stock. It is powered directly from the truck batteries. When you turn on the truck, the isolator opens the flow of power. When you turn it off, obviously it closes the flow of power beteen the truck and RV. The reason I set up my 2 sytems was first, I could deliver more power to the TC. Again running dual batteries in the truck and the TC. So I used the stock bummper 7 pin to plug in my boat so I could keep some power going to the boat batteries...just redundicy and peace of mind. That bumper connection is also isolated but just not as powerful. ....HEY! congrats you are getting a good education.
* This post was
edited 03/04/22 08:10pm by KKELLER14K *
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