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mikestock

Vestavia Hills, AL, USA

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Posted: 03/24/22 03:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have had my rv's stored in this lot for 17 years with an electrical hookup. The last 10 have been a 40ft. Tiffin Pheaton. Ever since the Phaeton has been here we have had problems keeping the 120 volt 15 watt GFCI breaker from opening. I am not the only one in the lot that has the same issue. Usually, the only thing operating is my charger to maintain the battery banks although all my ac receptacles are available. I have a household fridge which I like to keep plugged in if we're planning a short time between trips but I am concerned it will be shut down. I have checked the power draw which is under 120 watts even with the fridge on. I keep the ice maker turned off to keep the ice heater from overdrawing power.

If I don't keep a regular check I will find the breaker out. One of my neighbors has the same problem so he keeps a check for me also. We're not the only two on the lot with the problem. The owner is aware of the issue and also has problems with other units.

I am looking for any idea as to what/if anything I can do.

Yes, I meant "amp" not volt-amp.

* This post was edited 03/25/22 07:49am by mikestock *

Lwiddis

Cambria, California area

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Posted: 03/24/22 03:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A 30 watt $45 solar panel from Amazon and a $25 weatherproof controller from WindyNation will keep your batteries charged.


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lryrob9301

Anywhere

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Posted: 03/24/22 03:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Tell the owner to get off his dead *** and call an electrician to fix the problem. The problem is with the storage facility not having a sufficient electrical supply to carry the load.

DougE

New Braunfels, Texas USA

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Posted: 03/24/22 03:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would suggest connecting a ground wire from the chassis to the electrical ground at the supply plugin.


Currently Between RVs

Skibane

San Antonio, TX

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Posted: 03/24/22 04:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you have a DMM capable of measuring AC voltage, you might use it to measure the voltage between the Neutral and Ground pins on an outlet.

Ideally, you shouldn't measure any voltage between them.

If you measure more than a few volts between them, the electrical hookup that feeds your RV doesn't have a proper bond between those two wires.

In a residence, those two wires are usually bonded together at the main disconnect switch or breaker box.

In a commercial building, the bonding location may be different - but it needs to be present.

time2roll

Southern California

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Posted: 03/24/22 04:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

lryrob9301 wrote:

Tell the owner to get off his dead *** and call an electrician to fix the problem. The problem is with the storage facility not having a sufficient electrical supply to carry the load.
Seems more like a GFCI issue rather than overload. Maybe the OP can confirm if each outlet is on a separate GFCI breaker.


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mikestock

Vestavia Hills, AL, USA

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Posted: 03/24/22 05:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

DougE wrote:

I would suggest connecting a ground wire from the chassis to the electrical ground at the supply plugin.


Hi Doug,
I did this early on and drove a 6' copper-clad rod into the ground and connected it to my chassis with #4 cable. Thought this would do the trick but not so. Right now I have a low output charger connected to the battery bank. Costco is selling a 100 watt panel with a controller for just under $100. Thinking about buying this and saving the $10/month I pay now

Quote:

Seems more like a GFCI issue rather than overload. Maybe the OP can confirm if each outlet is on a separate GFCI breaker.

If this is the case there are at least 3 boxes and 6 breakers involved.

mikestock

Vestavia Hills, AL, USA

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Posted: 03/24/22 05:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Skibane wrote:

If you have a DMM capable of measuring AC voltage, you might use it to measure the voltage between the Neutral and Ground pins on an outlet.

Ideally, you shouldn't measure any voltage between them.

If you measure more than a few volts between them, the electrical hookup that feeds your RV doesn't have a proper bond between those two wires.

In a residence, those two wires are usually bonded together at the main disconnect switch or breaker box.

In a commercial building, the bonding location may be different - but it needs to be present.


I can check.

jkwilson

Indiana

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Posted: 03/24/22 05:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

DougE wrote:

I would suggest connecting a ground wire from the chassis to the electrical ground at the supply plugin.


In spite of the name, the presence, absence or quality of the ground has no bearing at all on the operation or safety of a GFCI.

A GFCI trips for two reasons: Different current on hot and neutral, or a downstream ground-neutral bond.


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Retired JSO

North Georgia Mountains

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Posted: 03/24/22 05:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have an additional refrigerator in our stick and brick garage. All outlets in the garage have a GFCI duplex plug. I had to change out that outlet to a standard dedicated outlet to keep it from tripping.





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