Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Tech Issues: Compartment latches and locks
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 > Compartment latches and locks

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BurbMan

Indianapolis, IN

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Posted: 04/04/22 08:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I've got some very large storage doors on the basement of the 5er with the standard-issue CH751 locks. The locks are finicky, and the quart-turn stops are all broken on the latches so they spin around and around, leaving you to guess when the tabs are actually engaged to the frame and holding the door closed.

I upgraded to the round 7-pin tumbler locks on the previous TT and they were a little better but don't think I will go that way again. These are typical towable 3/4" thick storage doors, not the heavier Class A doors that use slam latches. Several of the doors are so big that they have 3 latches, 2 thumb turns with a locking latch in the middle.

Any suggestions for "upgraded" latches?

BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 04/04/22 09:28am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hope there are some good answers to this. Having same issues with my older RVs. Problem now is they have tried to make different keys in sets so everyone with an RV can't open your RV compartments. But then you have some locks with one key number and some with another so you need more keys on your key ring.

Trouble is the sets of locks you get in a bag have keys made of some cheap metal that twists with the slightest turning strain, and the ends break off in the locks, and the keys get stuck in the locks so you can't pull the key out. It is all very frustrating.

The compartment doors are so thin but not all the same so you have to get the right length to fit. As noted in the OP, the catch to keep it in place is not very good. The screw holding the latch tab won't stay tight either.

Needs a dedicated spray can of penetrating oil just to keep all the locks working each trip. Phooey! So I'm with the OP hoping for the correct answer.

Here are some, no idea which are any good.

https://www.amazon.com/rv-compartment-locks/s?k=rv+compartment+locks

* This post was edited 04/04/22 10:28am by BFL13 *


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Durb

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Posted: 04/04/22 09:45am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I hope we are talking about the same latches. I find I have to disassemble mine every couple of years, clean and regrease the ball bearing for smooth operation. The stops are solid leading me to believe your entire lock may be rotating. I would check to see that the outer bezel isn't moving.

My trailer came with combination locks on some of the hatch doors and I would advise against them. I have to get the readers out to see the numbers and my eyes are pretty good. Plus, they have a large serrated handle perfect for Channellocks.

IAMICHABOD

Sunny So Cal

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Posted: 04/04/22 10:22am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have replaced all of mine on my 2006 Tioga with These from RV locks&More,they can all be keyed alike with heavy duty keys so I only have one key for everything. Just pick the size and how many you want.

I also like that they have a cover on the key slot that moves when you insert the key,thus keeping all grime out.


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Gdetrailer

PA

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Posted: 04/04/22 10:46am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Cam locks like this?

[image]

Just go to your local Home Depot or Lowes and buy standard off the shelf replacement generic cabinet door cam locks.

Search through their stock and pick out the locks which have the same key number. Cheap and effective.

Unless you are hiding valuables like gold, silver or diamonds there is no need for a higher security round lock.

Keep in mind, most of these locks (including the round key) the interior body is nothing more than zinc "IE pot metal" and what isn't pot metal is mild steel so they can be easily defeated with a screw driver or pry bar placed around the hatch..

Since the inside body is pot metal, it tends to corrode easily making the pins or the lock barrel stick from weather exposure over time.

To combat that, a light spritz of spray oil once and a while will reduce the effects of water intrusion. Typically on outdoor locks one would use a dry lubricant like graphite, I found on pot metal locks dry lubricants do not work. My "go to" is a product called TriFlow which is a oil mixed with Teflon..

[image]

Spray it right into the key hole and insert key and rotate a few times to spread the oil.

Yes, with the initial spray your key will have some oil on it, you simply wipe off the excess oil off the key and after a few times the key will no longer get oily.

wa8yxm

Davison Michigan (East of Flint)

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Posted: 04/04/22 03:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The problem is that if they are cam locks. Yes any locksmith or big home improvement or hardwar can likely sell you replacements.

If they are things like "Tri-mark" latch systems that might not work well.

Oh the CH-751... I was talking to a woman about water issues.. She told me she did NOT have a gravity fill port for her fresh water tank.

I took out MY Ch-751.. Opened the door and showed it to her.


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Fisherman

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Posted: 04/04/22 05:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would say the biggest problem with the cam locks are a lack of a rear backing plate that is secured to the inside of the hatch door. A simple 2x2" piece of aluminum 1/16th inch plate with the hole and half moon shape cut out secured with either screws or rivets, depending on the inside material. It will keep the whole lock from rotating.

* This post was edited 04/04/22 05:17pm by Fisherman *

BurbMan

Indianapolis, IN

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Posted: 04/06/22 07:20am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I was looking at the combo locks, but decided against them based on comments from @durb. I ordered a set of these (click pic for link):

[image]

These have a symmetrical key. One of the problems I have with the CH751 locks is that the key is not symmetrical and the lock cylinders are so worn that it lets me insert the key the wrong way. This does a great job of jamming stuff up and making it difficult to insert the key the correct way.

I was able to order them keyed alike so I can keep with the convenience of one key. The design of the door is such they nothing will give you top security, but at least there aren't the same key that the rest of the world had.

The thumb latches are still in good shape but the problem is that they rotate in their holes, so replacing them won't fix the issue. As was noted, I need to make some backing plates or come up with some way to hold the latch body in place so that the 1/4 turn latch-unlatch is consistent.

I'll post back when I get these locks installed.

Doesn't seem to be a lot of choices on these locks....I looked into slam latches, but apparently you need to replace both the door and the frame to convert to slam latches....all the ones I found require a minimum door thickness of 1-1/4", much sturdier than the standard 3/4" baggage doors.

Curly2001

Tucson, Arizona

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Posted: 04/06/22 07:46am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The hard locks are the slam latch locks. Would like to replace mine with different keys but I don't think that is possible. Have to lube them every few times we camp to keep them able to lock on the latch side. Use a silcone lube on them to keep them cleaner. Getting to be a real issue.
Curly


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JimK-NY

NY

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Posted: 04/06/22 08:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Many camlocks break easily which is the complaint of the OP. Sure you can buy better locks or locks with keys other than 751. But why bother? Most storage compartments can be easily popped open with a screwdriver so the quality of the locks or the different keys do little or nothing to improve security.

Personally I just bought a supply of standard 751 camlocks. It only takes a couple of minutes and a couple of dollars to replace a broken or sticking camlock. I keep a bunch of spares and spare parts in my RV.

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