Geewizard
WA
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Joined: 08/25/2004
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memilanuk wrote:Geewizard wrote:I tried well nuts for my solar panel mount (using Z mounts). They pulled right out.
Well, 17 years later it's obviously too late to argue about how exactly you did the install... but in my limited experience (putting several of them in last fall/winter), on the first attempt (or two) they *did* pull 'right out'. Turned out it was a mistake on *my* part, and when I went back and did it correctly, they held very solidly.
The metal version aka 'riv-nuts' should work at least as well, with the slight difference of not being inherently water-tight. Since most people are going to cover everything in sight with some kind of sealant, it's debatable whether that's worth it or whether it's better to go with some thing that is mechanically stronger like you did.
Either way works.
What was your mistake in putting in the well nuts and how did you do it correctly? I distinctly remember drilling the proper size hole, inserting the well nut, and tightening the screw. In my case, the brass insert in the rubber pulled out quite easily.
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memilanuk
Dry side of the Cascades
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Joined: 07/16/2013
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For me, it was a matter of having the rubber flange on the wrong side of the bracket (strut). I thought I could have it on the top side, and still be able to draw it down tight. When I did, it pulled the whole thing right through the hole.
Discarded that well nut, grabbed a new one, put it so that the flange was directly on top of the roof, with the strut channel on top of that, added washers, inserted the bolt, and snugged it down. Adding to the level of 'fun' was that I'd already put a bunch of Dicor around the flange / under the strut, so it was pretty messy the second time around. Took some doin' to get everything cleaned up.
That said, there's a point where the bolt head draws down flush, and then where it begins to snug up... which is usually the sign to *STOP TIGHTENING*. There really isn't a hard 'stop' feeling like with a metal-on-metal fastener... so I guess if you just kept turning and turning waiting for it to get tight and stop, yeah, you'd pull the threaded insert right out.
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deltabravo
Spokane, WA
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Joined: 09/08/2003
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jdcellarmod wrote:On my 2020 AF 865 I used the AM Solar L foot rocker foot mounts.
AM Solar has the best mounting system, I have ever seen for RV solar panels.
I used their panels and mounts on my AF811 as shown in this video
If I ever do another RV Solar project, I will not hesitate to user their mounts and panels again.
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Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli
Seattle
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Joined: 04/04/2008
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People rave about this super adhesive tape. You have to remember this tape is purpose built for aircraft, designed to be applied to a well understood engineered surface. An RV roof is not a comparably well engineered surface. Sure the tape may stick to the visible surface, but what of the materials beneath that? The adhesive on the tape probably far out classes the adhesive on the roof if any. Your panels may cause the roof material to separate and start bouncing around and before long, the panels are hanging over the side of the RV being held as long as the MP4 connectors last. There is no replacement for brackets, SIKAFLEX or 5200 adhesive caulk and some stainless screws and brackets. I used L brackets with #12 ss screws that I mounted to the roof making sure to position them where I could feel a roof joist I could screw into. The L brackets have three SS screws going into the solar panel frames for a very good solid connection all set into very durable adhesive caulk as mentioned. The solar system with 4 panels is working beyond expectations. I have not needed to plug into shore power since installation. On another note some people miss about the DC to DC charger, You really need to get one if you are going to run lithium batteries. Lithium batteries will accept so much charge current, they will place enough demand on your alternator that it will start smoking and burn out. Also, if you have a 12 volt charge wire, disconnect from the RV because it will not be doing you any good. It will probably operate at a lower voltage than the DC to DC charger and back feed to your vehicle throwing off your vehicle computer engine management control readings. What you can do with that 12 volt charge wire is use it as the engine running trigger wire for the DC to DC controller, turning it on and off when the vehicle is running or not. Confirm the 12 volt charge wire is key controlled. There you have it, an honest 2 cents worth with inflation accounted for. If you're interested, here's the video I did showing off my solar setup, though it's not intended as a technical how to installation video, but just a show and tell. Take care...
Solar System Show and Tell
* This post was
edited 04/29/22 06:33pm by Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli *
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