โMay-12-2022 09:43 AM
โMay-18-2022 05:36 PM
JRscooby wrote:Peter_Crowl wrote:
Semi tractors with Split system air?
Just google it.
here, for example is a link to a you tube video on the installation.
https://youtu.be/GUQAj7dTsSo
Not sure where the link takes you. I see some yeahwho cobbling some snot together in his yard.
I know my experience is a decade out of date, but when I retired 3 major options;
A)Sleep where idle restrictions did not apply/where not enforced, idle engine.(My choice)
B)Add a Auxiliary Power Unit, which is a small diesel engine that powers a second AC compressor and a second alternator. I think all also have inverter to power high voltage loads. (If had not retired, my old Pete would have got this upgrade)
C)New trucks could be optioned with a AC unit that was advertised to maintain cab temp for 10 hours on power stored while working the truck.
Now I'm not at all opposed to DIY, but if, like you say, he has to idle his engine to run the AC, what has he gained?
To talk about the RV world; I often read "solar will take care of all power needs, unless I need AC. IMHO, a ICE powering the AC compressor directly instead of a genset might make more sense.
โMay-17-2022 05:27 PM
Skibane wrote:
There are ducted mini-splits available - Could be mounted in an overhead cabinet, with the ducting routed along the back side of adjacent cabinets.
Some of the ceiling cassettes also have knock-outs for running small ducts to other areas.
โMay-16-2022 08:12 AM
Peter_Crowl wrote:
Semi tractors with Split system air?
Just google it.
here, for example is a link to a you tube video on the installation.
https://youtu.be/GUQAj7dTsSo
โMay-16-2022 07:17 AM
โMay-16-2022 06:58 AM
StirCrazy wrote:
thats what I was talking about bigger wiring huge battery bank and so on. they are made for big rigs that are ideling all the time now to run off an adverage rv when boon docking. if you use a 120V model now you have inverter inefficencies to worry about also which is even a larger draw.
โMay-16-2022 05:21 AM
Skibane wrote:spoon059 wrote:
The only possibly downfall that I am currently seeing is the inability to cool multiple rooms. My camper has a rear bunkhouse and a front master bedroom. With the doors closed for privacy/light, it would prevent the even flow of conditioned air. Putting a cassette in those areas would take a LOT of space and would be overwhelming cooling/heating power in such a small area.
There are ducted mini-splits available - Could be mounted in an overhead cabinet, with the ducting routed along the back side of adjacent cabinets.
Some of the ceiling cassettes also have knock-outs for running small ducts to other areas.StirCrazy wrote:
and pretty power hungry, 105Amps at 12V on max.
That's "only" 1260 watts - Not much different from a typical 120V unit.
One problem with 12V units is that the high amperage requires thick wire, and introduces electrical losses. If you have a long wire wire run between the unit and your batteries, you might actually get less loss by using an inverter with a 120 volt model instead - even taking into account the conversion losses inside the inverter.
โMay-15-2022 07:07 AM
โMay-15-2022 06:30 AM
Skibane wrote:
If you have a long wire wire run between the unit and your batteries, you might actually get less loss by using an inverter with a 120 volt model instead - even taking into account the conversion losses inside the inverter.
โMay-15-2022 05:05 AM
spoon059 wrote:
The only possibly downfall that I am currently seeing is the inability to cool multiple rooms. My camper has a rear bunkhouse and a front master bedroom. With the doors closed for privacy/light, it would prevent the even flow of conditioned air. Putting a cassette in those areas would take a LOT of space and would be overwhelming cooling/heating power in such a small area.
StirCrazy wrote:
and pretty power hungry, 105Amps at 12V on max.
โMay-15-2022 04:53 AM
โMay-14-2022 08:37 PM
theoldwizard1 wrote:Peter_Crowl wrote:
I love the split systems that I have in my home.
Now that I have the roof on my 2000 Bounder 34T cleared for recovering I'm wondering if anybody makes an inverter system unit for RV's.
There are some 12VDC or 24VDC A/C systems designed for trucks, but nothing in the RV specific market.
Some people have taken residential mini-split systems which do use inverter powered compressors and installed on RV. Not sure how well they would handle all of the bouncing around.
If you are a HVAC person, it would not be difficult to build your own. All of the parts are readily available.
You can of course run an A/C off of an inverter if you have a large enough one and sufficient battery power.
The big win on 12VDC compressors is that they actually use 3 phase AC motors. 3 phase motors are much more energy efficient than straight DC or single phase AC.
โMay-14-2022 01:18 PM
โMay-14-2022 01:10 PM
StirCrazy wrote:magicbus wrote:Peter_Crowl wrote:As I said, something like 20โ, it was a couple of years ago. And he said he would have to coil any excess near the inverter. He preferred to bury it which is what started the discussion. Our shortest run was just long enough that there was no excess.magicbus wrote:
The guy who installed my house inverters explained that to operate properly an inverter requires a certain minimum length run between the inverter and the heat exchanger to operate properly. Something like 20โ. He has done 3 installations for me so I tend to accept what he says.
Dave
Interesting. I have three in my house. None are that far apart. The line runs are - IIRC - 12 and 16' with the excess line coiled up behind the outside unit.
Dave
its probably because the standard lenth of precharged line is 20'. if he had to cut his own line, add the fittings, solder them then purge and charge them the cost would be several times more so a lot of installers are going to the precharged lines and trying to lay it out so there isnt any excess that just looks bad and showes how they did it.
โMay-14-2022 07:38 AM
pianotuna wrote:
Here are a few battery powered air conditioners. Fairly pricey.
https://www.nomadiccooling.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw4PKTBhD8ARIsAHChzRI3SRbre56BRTRN3t54f5dHLaKSO1GMjaSCR2...
โMay-14-2022 07:35 AM
magicbus wrote:Peter_Crowl wrote:As I said, something like 20โ, it was a couple of years ago. And he said he would have to coil any excess near the inverter. He preferred to bury it which is what started the discussion. Our shortest run was just long enough that there was no excess.magicbus wrote:
The guy who installed my house inverters explained that to operate properly an inverter requires a certain minimum length run between the inverter and the heat exchanger to operate properly. Something like 20โ. He has done 3 installations for me so I tend to accept what he says.
Dave
Interesting. I have three in my house. None are that far apart. The line runs are - IIRC - 12 and 16' with the excess line coiled up behind the outside unit.
Dave