Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: HELP: Fridge issues and trip tmw!
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 > HELP: Fridge issues and trip tmw!

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2oldman

NM

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Posted: 05/18/22 01:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BurbMan wrote:

I appreciate the help guys! Yes an IR thermometer is not the most accurate but was enough to confirm I have a problem. .
I don't know what accuracy these folks are expecting.

Did you pull the back and check for leakage in the coils?

dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 05/18/22 01:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

1. The Evap fins will be 10 degrees colder than the actual items in the refer. Where did you install the probe for your thermometer you purchased?
2. 120 elements either work or they do NOT work. No in between/partial operation.
3. WAIT 24 hours before getting a reading
4. Have you verified that the unit is level, now, and when you started loading it up for your trip?
5. If you have a Gas Pressure problem(to low), then Gas is not the way to test operation. Without a Manometer, you cannot verify gas pressure. Just 1 inch low will cause cooling problems.
6. The 120 wired direct is the best way to go for the 24 hour check. IF after 24 hours and the freezer is NOT below 10 degrees and the refer NOT below 38 degrees (AND THE REAR VENTILATION IS NOT RESTRICTED BOTTOM TO TOP BEHIND THE REFER), Then your cooling unit is probably shot.
7. LAST, you don't state if the refer is in a slide room. If it is and you do not have the rear cooling fans operating you will have diminished cooling. Doug

bgum

South Louisiana

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Posted: 05/18/22 02:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would move your thermistor to the second fin from the right and then slide it to the top. Make sure you a getting good airflow in the back of the unit.

BurbMan

Indianapolis, IN

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Posted: 05/18/22 03:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

1. The Evap fins will be 10 degrees colder than the actual items in the refer. Where did you install the probe for your thermometer you purchased?
The fridge probe is stuck to the left side wall of the fridge between the 1st and 2nd shelf. Not too close to the fins, not to close to the bottom.

2. 120 elements either work or they do NOT work. No in between/partial operation.
Got that, thank you.

3. WAIT 24 hours before getting a reading
Would love to, but don't have a lot of time to get this diagnosed.

4. Have you verified that the unit is level, now, and when you started loading it up for your trip?
Yes, the trailer is parked in a level spot on my driveway, both side to side and front to rear.

5. If you have a Gas Pressure problem(to low), then Gas is not the way to test operation. Without a Manometer, you cannot verify gas pressure. Just 1 inch low will cause cooling problems.
No gas pressure problems that I am aware of, everything else works just fine. I switched the fridge back to "auto" so it's running on AC now.

6. The 120 wired direct is the best way to go for the 24 hour check. IF after 24 hours and the freezer is NOT below 10 degrees and the refer NOT below 38 degrees (AND THE REAR VENTILATION IS NOT RESTRICTED BOTTOM TO TOP BEHIND THE REFER), Then your cooling unit is probably shot.
I'm unable to verify if the vent fan is working or not.

7. LAST, you don't state if the refer is in a slide room. If it is and you do not have the rear cooling fans operating you will have diminished cooling.
It is located in a slide room.

Right now I am unable to verify that the vent fan is running behind the fridge, it's pouring rain here. I have this cordless fan that I placed behind the fridge blowing up on to the cooling unit. Going to let this run for a few hours and see if it drops the temps, if so the fan likely needs replacement. If the fan doesn't bring the temps down, then I likely will need a cooling unit.

BurbMan

Indianapolis, IN

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Posted: 05/18/22 06:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Looks like vent fan is DOA, but aux fan running doesn't help either. Current temps are 3* freezer and 60* fridge. Fortunately have an appt with National RV Refrigeration in Shipshewana, IN tomorrow at 8am. Will be a slight detour from our trip, but have used these guys before and they are the best!

I like to DIY stuff when I can, but you have to know when to call in the pros...will report back on what the fix was.

Disappointing part was that fridge was running on our maiden voyage last month, so went shopping for this trip thinking fridge was fine. Wound up tossing $150 of groceries in the trash because they sat all night at 57*. Hate to do it, and especially hate to waste food like that, but better than missing out on a $1000 trip due to food poisoning on the first night.

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 05/18/22 07:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sometimes taking the fridge out and rolling it end for end and side for side may free the blockage.


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 05/18/22 08:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pianotuna wrote:

Sometimes taking the fridge out and rolling it end for end and side for side may free the blockage.


Wives tail. The blockage is as hard as a Weld slag. What you stated is called "burping". WILL NEVER FIX A REFER BLOCKED COOLING UNIT. But, what is can do is "rearrange" the Ammonium liquid to temporarily bypass the blockage but will only work partially for a few days to a week. Once the blockage stops the liquid again the refer stops cooling. Doug

dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 05/18/22 08:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Burbman, what do you think National RV refer is going to do? Unless you want to wait a few days for a CORRECT diagnosis, they can do nothing other than replace the CU. Doug

BurbMan

Indianapolis, IN

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Posted: 05/18/22 08:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Doug, not sure why you say takes DAYS for a correct diagnosis. What possible diagnosis would come to light after observing it for a few more days? It's either the board, or the CU.

National RV will diagnose the unit, if it needs a cooling unit they will replace it while I wait. If I need a whole new unit, they will replace it while I wait. All they do is RV refrigeration, they have a huge inventory of parts and specialize in fixing units and getting them back on the road. I'm guaranteed to leave with a functioning fridge, only question is how much it will cost depending on what's wrong with it.

This RV is a 2008 model, so the fridge is 14 years old. We bought the rig knowing that the average life expectancy of an RV absorption fridge is 10-15 years, and accounted for the fact that we may have to replace the fridge. Absolute worst case is I need a whole new fridge and pay to have it replaced, and it's $2k. I'm Ok with that, the rig is still worth more than what I have into it.

If I'm outta there by lunch with a new CU and it costs me $1k, I consider that a win.

Update: After running the aux fan on the cooling unit the freezer temp has dropped to 4*, but fridge is still at 57*. Grabbed a beer and it as *meh* cool but not cold. Mountains would not have been blue if that was my brand.

Nv Guy

Reno NV

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Posted: 05/18/22 09:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It does take at least a day to properly diagnose a refrigerator. As previously mentioned one places a cup of water in the refrigerator while the cooling unit is run wide open on AC. After 24 hours you check the temp of the water. If the cooling unit is operating the water will be darn near or frozen depending on ambient temps.
Otherwise you are just throwing parts at it.





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