JRscooby
Indepmo
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SDcampowneroperator wrote:Michael,
Towing and parking will be different , as you will need more turning room like a 5th wl rig does. because the axles are moved farther behind.
Not exactly. The difference in how far a 5th wheel tracks inside, compared to bumper pull has everything to do with distance between rear axle and hitch pivot. As the front of TV starts to turn the tail swing moves the nose of trailer toward outside of turn. 5th wheel, must take wider arc with TV because front of trailer does not follow TV tail swing.
Now the extra distance between hitch pivot and axles will mean you need more room to maneuver, but normally makes it easier. The issue I see is extending the tongue will reduce TW which is likely to cause sway issues.
A rack that will let boat extend over cab while towing is likely a better idea. Also let you have bed for other toys/gear. Camp set up, take boat down off rack, load in bed for quick launch.
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bucky
Raleigh metro
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There is no 5th wheel involved with his question.
2005 Cummins 3500 2WD LB quad cab dually pulling a 2014 Blue Ridge 3025RL
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JRscooby
Indepmo
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bucky wrote:There is no 5th wheel involved with his question.
No, but 5th wheel was mentioned in a reply, and gave false info
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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Another good grief thread. From u bolt clamp on trailer tongues to arguing bout how a trailer tracks….
OP, if you’re having to ask then this work is not for you. It’s doable and not totally out there albeit not common. Get a couple prices from welding shops that would do the work and then decide if it’s worth it to you.
I’d be more inclined to install a ladder rack and figure out how to flip the boat over and carry it on a rack. Again not a $0 solution but less technical and less involved. And probably not more expensive. You may even find a used ladder rack for a short bed fairly cheap?
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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But you do make it sound like you’re a welder, so DIY is possible, but if you don’t know how to design it (which was your original question I think) then it’s still probably not the best option. Plus you’ll limit your resale if you don’t plan on keeping the camper a long time until it’s basically worthless. The average person isn’t going to want to see an obviously modified trailer frame and tongue.
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Sjm9911
New Jersey
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Not sure how a c frame trailor will take the added stress of lengthening it. They are prety flimsy. May be better for the roof rack, or a beefier frame for the whole camper.
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SDcampowneroperator
South Dakota
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Lets get back to OPs original post, He wants to carry his boat in the truck bed. over cab Rack is out for them. They like to do it their way. Low and easy.
So, as they questioned, about lengthening the tongue to accommodate their boat, is a reasonable option in a bolt on way , likely cheaper than a n over bed rack. certainly easier for use as they use it a lot.
They can design and build it - he has a welder - for you who didnt read the whole thread.
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Sjm9911
New Jersey
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SDcampowneroperator wrote:Lets get back to OPs original post, He wants to carry his boat in the truck bed. over cab Rack is out for them. They like to do it their way. Low and easy.
So, as they questioned, about lengthening the tongue to accommodate their boat, is a reasonable option in a bolt on way , likely cheaper than a n over bed rack. certainly easier for use as they use it a lot.
They can design and build it - he has a welder - for you who didnt read the whole thread.
I read the whole thread, c frame campers are weak. They break and bend all the time. I would not recommend extending them. I gave options to better ideas. Have you seen a c frame camper or light trailor for that matter fail? I have, and not just campers but utillity trailors. Its always on the tounge. Yes , you can reinforce and weld them as they are. But sometimes they break where the reinforcement isnt. Unless you know the forces applied to the elongated tounge, I wouldn't chance it. But thats just me. You can do as you wish.
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