Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Air Conditioner / Thermostat after sitting for 2 years
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 > Air Conditioner / Thermostat after sitting for 2 years

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joebedford

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Posted: 08/19/22 10:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here are photos of my multimeter. Even with both ACs running, the voltage is over 116V - I don't think that will hurt the ACs in the least. (Normally my house voltage is 125V but it's a bit down today - lots of ACs running at stick houses)

This is the voltage at the RV (and stick house) without any ACs running:

[image]

This is the voltage at the RV with the main AC running:

[image]

This is the voltage at the RV with both ACs running:

[image]

MFL

Midwest

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Posted: 08/19/22 10:42am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

That indicates a good power source, and very little drop to the 30 amp. How long of run from S&B entrance box, to the 30 amp plug in?

I have 75' of 8/2 from main entrance to my 30 amp plug box. My volts drop to 116-117 with just one 15K AC running.

Just a side note: It would be a good idea to run the furnace after long time non-use, just to run fan motor, and ensure all works properly.

Jerry





pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 08/19/22 01:08pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

joebedford,

Neither link works for me. May I ask for you just to tell us the voltages? Thanks in advance.


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

joebedford

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Posted: 08/19/22 01:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

121.8V; 119.3V; 115.9V

joebedford

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Posted: 08/19/22 01:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

From the S&B panel to the RV plug is about 6 feet - I think it's 12ga wire. From the RV, I have a 50' (I'm guessing) 50A cord plus 30' 30A cord that plugs into S&B. The pins on the dogbone connecting the 2 cords look a bit corroded - need to clean them up.

Furnace? Yeah, I know. I have to find an auto-switchover regulator first. I've run the fan but no propane because of the regulator.

I tried the stove and microwave but none of the 4 TVs.

I'm more concerned with running gear at the moment.

midnightsadie

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Posted: 08/19/22 03:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

what did you do about the tires?

dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 08/19/22 03:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You do not state year or Model number. BUT, E1 on a Dometic means loss of communication. That means that somewhere between The wall tstat and Zone 1 the COM cable that looks like a flat phone cord has a problem. MOST common problem IF you have the Lo Profile Penguin Models is corrosion in the evaporator area where the COM cables connect to the Wall tstat and Zone 1 and Zone 2. Since you have a 5th wheel Zone 1 is usually the Living room unit and Zone 2 is the Bedroom unit, but it is NOT a hard rule. Do you have the older style 14 inch square inside on the ceiling the access panel with the Air filter? If so, you can access the Phone type connectors and unplug and check for rusted pins. IF NOT, you have to go on top and remove the AC covers and the Plastic or styrofoam Evap cover to access those connections. This is usually the cause of intermittant connections. Fix is to cut off the corroded plugs and install new plugs. Doug

joebedford

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Posted: 08/19/22 06:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Haven't done anything about the tires (yet).

My rig is 2011. I don't think the rooftop ACs are Penguin. In my 5er, Zone 1 is LR and Zone 2 is BR.

There is ZERO access to LR from inside the rig but the BR is accessible by ceiling vent (though it's ducted too).

I will certainly check the pins for corrosion.

The ACs worked again today - cooled to 70F then cycled off. Definitely an intermittent.

wa8yxm

Davison Michigan (East of Flint)

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Posted: 08/20/22 05:09am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Re Corrosion.

Micro Center stores (And some other electronics) Carry DE-OX-IT.. you need two types One is the de-oxidizer it will have a number ranging from 5 to 100 IE DE-Ox-It 50 the number is the strength in percent 50 is 50 percent. I have both 5 and 100 here. (5 is good for maintanance 100 for problems but costs more 50 is a good comprimise)

De-Ox-It GOLD is the protective treatment after cleaning witht the De-Ox-it ##


Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times


joebedford

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Posted: 08/20/22 08:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Is the De-Ox-It for the corrosion on the AC wiring or main power or both?

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