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cummins2014

Utah

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Posted: 09/01/22 08:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Cummins12V98 wrote:

Look at the B&W it simply can't drop the 5er if the pin box and hitch are touching each other and the jaws are closed and the handle is locked. With the thick jaws it makes it easy to see of you are high hitched unlike others with thin jaws.

No need for a pull test as if you do what I just mentioned that is a visual test and good enough IMHO.



Sorry ,misquoted you .No need for a pull test , instead of not necessary to do a pull test.

Cummins12V98

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Posted: 09/01/22 08:32am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RCMAN46 wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

Of course they ALL recommend a pull test. A pull test is no divergent than a visual test, it's a test!

My wife double checks me every time as she fully understands how the hitch works. Kinda like "did you put the butt plug in the boat" as she asks me every time before a launch.

I really don't care if people do a pull test or not. I think people should do what they feel comfortable with. Lot's of damage can be done not doing a pull test correctly.


Expand on the damage that can be done if a pull test is not done correctly.


My fault if "I" don't do a visual test as I laid out earlier.


2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

Cummins12V98

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Posted: 09/01/22 08:35am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If I wanted an air ride hitch the Trailer Saver would at the top of the list. The others mentioned not so much. I don't need an air ride hitch as my truck has factory rear air and an air bag pin box. Rides GREAT!!!

Cummins12V98

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Posted: 09/01/22 08:36am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

cummins2014 wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

Look at the B&W it simply can't drop the 5er if the pin box and hitch are touching each other and the jaws are closed and the handle is locked. With the thick jaws it makes it easy to see of you are high hitched unlike others with thin jaws.

No need for a pull test as if you do what I just mentioned that is a visual test and good enough IMHO.



Sorry ,misquoted you .No need for a pull test , instead of not necessary to do a pull test.


Zactly, IMHO as I mentioned no need.

ReneeG

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Posted: 09/01/22 08:41am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Durb wrote:

Learjet wrote:

Durb wrote:

It appears the award for "Best Hitch" has been given to the B&W Companion. I'm late to this thread (been camping), but I would like to nominate the Trailer Saver TS3 which I own.

- The Companion is made in USA, so is the Trailer Saver.
- The Companion uses heavy gauge steel, the TS3 is heavier, 1/4" plate with 3/4" solid steel risers.
- The Companion has thick jaws, those on the TS3 are thicker.
- The TS3 dissipates bouncing forces, the Companion doesn't.
- Due to the high hinge design, the TS3 dissipates chucking forces, the Companion doesn't.
- During panic braking, the TS3 causes the front of the trailer to push down loading the rear truck tires, a safety feature.
- The comfortable tow of the TS3 reduces driver fatigue, a safety feature.
- Shock mitigation of the TS3 protects the trailer's frame and the truck's electronics. The Companion doesn't do this.

The Companion is a good hitch, the TS3 just does so much more. In a "Best Hitch" competition, B&W would rank below Trailer Saver, Road master Comfort Ride, and Air Safe hitches. Due to the high prices, we just don't have as many fanboys.


What kind of maintenance does the TS3 need? What are the failure points...airbags? Which one is easier to remove? Which one cost less? Which one has better customer support?


Maintenance - Zerk fittings for the pivot rod similar to the need to grease the rubber donuts on the Companion. Same for the Hensley TrailerSaver BD3

Failure points - Don't know, never had a failure in six years. Same here, but have not had a failure since installing it in 2010.

Easier to remove - Based on this Criterium, the lightest hitch would then be the best hitch. "Best Hitch" was the question. TrailerSaver BD3 is heavy duty, but comes apart for easy removal.

Cost - You get what you pay for. Pay less - get less.

Customer support - Don't know, never needed to call customer support. My guess is if you are calling customer support, you have problems. Fantastic and prompt customer support from Hensley!



2011 Bighorn 3055RL
2011 F350 DRW 6.7L 4x4 Diesel Lariat and Hensley TrailerSaver BD3
1992 Jeep ZJ and 1978 Coleman Concord Pop-Up for remote camping
Dave & Renee plus (Champ, Molly, Paris, Missy, and Maggie in spirit), Mica and Mabel, both Rat Terriers!


hondapro

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Posted: 09/03/22 04:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

With mw B&W I never do a tug test. With the B&W you can clearly see if the jaws are around the pin. As thick as the jaws are if you are high hitched it would be easy to tell.


Steve
2016 F-350 6.7 Diesel
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B&W Companion

Cummins12V98

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Posted: 09/03/22 11:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

hondapro wrote:

With mw B&W I never do a tug test. With the B&W you can clearly see if the jaws are around the pin. As thick as the jaws are if you are high hitched it would be easy to tell.


Nice you payed attention at the "B&W HeavyWeight" seminar.

Full disclaimer, with a B&W "DO A PULL TEST IF YOU HAVE NO CONFIDENCE IN YOUR EYES".

JIMNLIN

Oklahoma

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Posted: 09/14/22 07:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

hondapro wrote:

With mw B&W I never do a tug test. With the B&W you can clearly see if the jaws are around the pin. As thick as the jaws are if you are high hitched it would be easy to tell.

Its easy to "see" if the jaws are around the pin with any hitch brand.

Jaw thickness has zero to do with high hitching issues with a SAF Holland hitch or a Fontaine OTR hitch or any rv brand 5th wheel hitch.

The pin has a upper flange (or shoulder). The top shoulder/flange on 5th wheel pins are the same thickness
The jaws close just below the pins upper flange/shoulder so the distance from the top plate to the top of the hitch jaws can be the same regardless of jaw thickness.

A weak pull test may not pull the pin off the top of the jaws for several turns around a corner....but a visual from behind the hitch will tell the operator if the jaws are around the pin and closed.


"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers

'03 2500 QC Dodge/Cummins HO 3.73 6 speed manual Jacobs Westach
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valhalla360

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Posted: 09/14/22 07:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Any 5th wheel hitch of appropriate rating used per the directions is going to be fine. (gooseneck variations are a different animal).

Do a visual and pull test and there is effectively no chance of it coming undone.

If you roll the rig all bets are off regardless of hitch.

The selection of specialty hitches would be to address an issue. They are very expensive, so silly to buy one if you haven't experienced an issue.


Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV


Cummins12V98

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Posted: 09/14/22 09:45am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JIMNLIN 100% disagree! It is MUCH easier to identify a "high hitch" with 1" thick jaws than say CURT with thin 1/2" jaws. Set the kingpin on top of the B&W closed jaws and the apace between plates will be 1/2" larger than the CURT making it MUCH easier to identify as high hitched.

Maybe I misunderstood what you said???

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