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JIMNLIN

Oklahoma

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Posted: 09/14/22 12:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Cummins12V98 wrote:

JIMNLIN 100% disagree! It is MUCH easier to identify a "high hitch" with 1" thick jaws than say CURT with thin 1/2" jaws. Set the kingpin on top of the B&W closed jaws and the apace between plates will be 1/2" larger than the CURT making it MUCH easier to identify as high hitched.

Maybe I misunderstood what you said???

You did or I didn't make it plain.
The top of a 1/2" or 3/4" or 1" or 1.25" thick jaw is just below the pins top shoulder.
Look at a picture of a 2" size 5th wheel pin and we can see what I'm saying.
All 2" 5th wheel pins use the same dimensions for the top shoulder

If you have ever seen a high hitch you would know the gap isn't constant all around. Usually all the gap if any is in the rear and not easily seen from the drivers seat.
Just one reason professional big rig drivers do a tug test...then get out of their rig and do a visual looking to see the jaws are around the 2" dia part of the pin and closed.


"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers

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valhalla360

No paticular place.

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Posted: 09/14/22 12:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Painted the jaws white. If you can't see white around the pin, it's not locked in.


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Cummins12V98

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Posted: 09/15/22 09:18am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JIMNLIN I think we are on the same page.


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Cptnvideo

Arizona - most of the time

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Posted: 09/15/22 12:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We're not new to RVs but fairly new to 5th wheel RVs. A forum member recommended the Hensley BD-5 hitch to us and after doing some research, we bought one. And we are very happy with it. Very comfortable ride.
I guess I don't understand what all the fuss is about "pull tests". But it might be because I only know about the above mentioned hitch.
When hitching up, we visually look to see if the jaws are closed on the king pin and check to see if we can see that the bottom flange of the king pin is below the jaws. We then check to see if the locking arm is in the 8 o'clock position (which locks the jaws around the kng pin). If all that is correct, I simply don't see a reason for the pull test. Am I missing something?


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Cummins12V98

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Posted: 09/15/22 01:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Cptnvideo wrote:

We're not new to RVs but fairly new to 5th wheel RVs. A forum member recommended the Hensley BD-5 hitch to us and after doing some research, we bought one. And we are very happy with it. Very comfortable ride.
I guess I don't understand what all the fuss is about "pull tests". But it might be because I only know about the above mentioned hitch.
When hitching up, we visually look to see if the jaws are closed on the king pin and check to see if we can see that the bottom flange of the king pin is below the jaws. We then check to see if the locking arm is in the 8 o'clock position (which locks the jaws around the kng pin). If all that is correct, I simply don't see a reason for the pull test. Am I missing something?


Sir, you are missing NOTHING!!! B&W and Hensley simply do not need a pull test if you do a VISUAL conformation and everything is connected correctly.

For the "Sky is falling" crowd carry on with your pull tests.

Cptnvideo

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Posted: 09/15/22 02:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thank you, Mr Cummins12V98. Good to know.

JIMNLIN

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Posted: 09/15/22 07:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quote:

When hitching up, we visually look to see if the jaws are closed on the king pin and check to see if we can see that the bottom flange of the king pin is below the jaws. We then check to see if the locking arm is in the 8 o'clock position (which locks the jaws around the kng pin). If all that is correct, I simply don't see a reason for the pull test. Am I missing something?



Other 5th wheel rv owners say they may do both or just a tug test or as you just a visual.

I come from the commercial side (the sky is falling crowd) of trucking where we do both from a safety perspective and mandatory company safety policies.
A good tug test is number one and then get out and do a good visual as a secondary safety procedure.

If anyone prefers to use one or the other safety procedures correctly or both ...by all means do it. No one will think less of you for doing so.

* This post was edited 09/16/22 07:19am by an administrator/moderator *

ford truck guy

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Posted: 09/16/22 06:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I started driving BIG TRUCKS back in the early 1980's.. It was POUNDED in my head to ALWAYS do a pull test when hooking up a new trailer.... Never dropped a trailer in all those years..

Fast forward, I am still in the habit of doing my pull test EVEN AFTER I visually verify my jaws are locked around the king pin.

Is it wrong of me?? who cares, I will continue to do it that way


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MFL

Midwest

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Posted: 09/16/22 07:10am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

^Anyone not doing a visual check, or a proper pull test, is asking for trouble.

I just do a visual check, but never tell anyone not to do a pull test. What is a proper pull test? Do all using this method do it properly? Likely not, as we found out in the thread Shadows4 started a while ago. A tug may not be enough, a yank a bit better, but a heavy throttle pull may be the best?

Does everyone raise the landing legs a little, before pull, so as not to damage legs? Does everyone use quality chocks that won't slide, during a hard throttle pull? Do some just hold the manual brake lever, give a tug?

I would not do a pull test and no visual, but doing a visual without pull. Works for ME.

I had a hitch with a draw bar (first hitch) that was flimsy/cheap design/noisy, but safe, easy to see when hitched. It had a rotary gear, handle operated, that when rotated closed, bar behind pin, and handle pinned, was safely hooked. I hadn't even heard of a pull test, but always did a visual inspection.

Oh ya, that RBW rotary hitch did SLAM shut, was loud even sitting in truck. A B&W does not slam when backed into, but the arm does close, as the jaws close.

Here is a pic of the hitch (not mine).

[image]





Cptnvideo

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Posted: 09/16/22 10:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It is my understanding that it is NOT needed IF you have certain hitches AND if a visual check is done.

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