RJL
Manahawkin, New Jersey
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I'm not going to store my RV this fall and winter at a facility as I have some work to do on it. It'll be easier to pick away at the things I can fix when it's in my driveway as well as hire someone to fix the stuff I can't.
My question is this. My driveway is not level. At the top it is but where I would like to park the MH has a bit of a slant downward, towards the nose of the RV. It's backed in. My fridge will be off. I've read that you shouldn't park your RV on a slant and run the fridge. I just read that it's ok to park on a slant, with the Fridge off, but when you want to use the MH again you need to level it for 24 hours, which would not be a problem.
Is this about right?
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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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You won't need the 24 hours.
It is correct to NOT run the fridge when out of level--and damage starts to accumulate after as little as 15 minutes.
Regards, Don
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JRscooby
Indepmo
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Parking for a month plus? Back it in where you want it, dump suspension, and measure top of front wheel wells. Level the MH, and take measurements again. Build blocks the right height, set front wheels on.
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opnspaces
San Diego Ca
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It will be fine as long as the refrigerator is off. The 24 hours is not necessary.
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TexasShadow
Spring Branch, TX USA
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I think it might be better to level the rig because the stabilizers will be good to have if you get a strong windstorm, and who knows what kind of winter storms we might get.
TexasShadow
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LouLawrence
Traveling the US!
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You don't say how much of a slope is involved. A bit of a slant might be just fine. I believe the guideline is something around 2.5 degrees out of level is still OK to run the fridge. It certainly doesn't have to be perfectly level. Additionally, as mentioned, if the fridge is off while stored out of level you will be able to get it level (close to level) and turn the fridge on.
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wa8yxm
Davison Michigan (East of Flint)
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Use the jacks.. Take a load off the springs.
Also if for any reason you need to move into the RV for a bit.. Already ready to occupy.
One suggestion then a comment
Cut some blocks of wood. 2x12 12 (or 11.5) inches long 4 of 'em (Assuming you have 4 jacks) put one under each jack pad before extending.. Reason.
I lived in Detroit. First year I did not do that and the jacks froze to the gravel.. I got 'em lose but.. job.
2nd year I put the pads down. THEY froze to the ground but the jacks came up easily.. So I drove off. Grabbed my 8 pounder and stepped up to the wood blocks. and they popped lose like July.
After that I always padded in the winter.
Summer. Depended on where parked.. Some sites I'd lay 2x12 down to "Spread the force"
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
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AllegroD
Outdare
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Yes. That is correct for the fridge.
No. You may need to be reasonably level to extend slides. Keep guides and gears from binding. See your manual.
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WinMinnie02
NJ
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Use wood 2x6 to level them if needed. Simple and easy is best.
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Matt_Colie
Southeast Michigan
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RJL,
While I very much agree with all the above, but I have a different take.
Time was I did a lot of boat work. Much of it was done when the boat was "on the hard". It may have been set down only level enough for the water to drain off the decks. This would cause me difficulties when I was working below.
Tools or parts would roll off "level" surfaces. This can bring your thinking to a halt real fast and lost screws can be a nightmare. I once put a can of something (like glue or paint) down on a table and it dripped over the edge. I was barely able to keep that from being a disaster. Sailboats is doesn't really matter, but power boats want mounted things to be level when they are stopped and that is harder to do when you have no level reference.
So, level or not is really your choice, and I personally would suggest that you cut blocks and an extra step to do this right the first time.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie
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