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deltabravo

Spokane, WA

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Posted: 11/28/22 08:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

S Davis wrote:

... on newer GM HD trucks, my 2019 Chevy 2500HD sits above 14 volts, when changing my batteries it will ramp up to just above 15 volts @ 50amps.


15+ volts is all the more reason for a DC to DC Charger. I don't think Lithiums will agree with that high of a charge voltage.


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Hemi Joel

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Posted: 11/28/22 09:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I agree that the really expensive batteries need more expensive fancy equipment to try to help keep them alive as long as possible.
I don't see that the original poster ever said what kind of batteries he has.
I am assuming he has FLA batteries, but that could be wrong.
I have found that the FLA batteries I use will handle a lot of abuse. I never bother to check that they are charged to 100%, I just know they are charged enough to do the job for me. I don't babysit them. If they fail in 3-5 years, I don't care, they are cheap. I'm road trips for fun, not to think about batteries.
For some people, the electrical system of their camper is an interesting hobby. The more gadgets, the more enjoyment. I get that. Those in that group, you know what you have to do.
And then there is another group, that I am not going to attempt to describe. They should just buy the 12-12 charger.
For me, I just want to have electricity when I want it. I am willing to spend money where it makes sense, but I don't want to waste it, or make things over complicated. So for me and like minded people, a pair of heavy gauge wires is fine.


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Hemi Joel

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Posted: 11/28/22 10:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If I wanted to run a fridge while on the highway and not on propane, I would mount an inverter under the hood close to the battery, then run a 110 volt cord back to the fridge circuit.
Or you could plug the whole camper into it and the built-in charger in the camper would keep the camper batteries up.

S Davis

Western WA

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Posted: 11/28/22 10:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

deltabravo wrote:

S Davis wrote:

... on newer GM HD trucks, my 2019 Chevy 2500HD sits above 14 volts, when changing my batteries it will ramp up to just above 15 volts @ 50amps.


15+ volts is all the more reason for a DC to DC Charger. I don't think Lithiums will agree with that high of a charge voltage.


I am using a 50amp DC to DC charger.

S Davis

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Posted: 11/28/22 10:24pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

theoldwizard1 wrote:

S Davis wrote:


That is not true on newer GM HD trucks, my 2019 Chevy 2500HD sits above 14 volts, when changing my batteries it will ramp up to just above 15 volts @ 50amps.

According to the above statement I should have a smart alternator, but I have yet to see this mysterious lowering of voltage a few people on here keep stating.

Check the voltage at the starting battery immediately after starting and at the house battery.

Drive for 10-15 minutes and, with the engine still running, check those voltages again.


I have voltage meters, they stay constant above 14v and if the LifeP04 are charging it’s highe.

HMS Beagle

Napa, California

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Posted: 11/29/22 09:41am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pianotuna wrote:

The lead acid were replaced with telcom jars, and whoops there was no charging from the alternator to the house unless I was running the microwave or other heavy draw. In fact it regularly sent power to the alternator. I replaced the starter battery with an AGM. No improvement.

No idea what you mean by "telcom jar batteries", perhaps they have particularly high voltage.

Anyone interested in house battery charging from the alternator, or mixing battery types, needs to do some basic measurements: voltage and current with batteries fully charged and engine running well above idle, and voltage and current with house batteries discharged at least 50%. Measurements done at truck engine compartment (say at the start battery) and at the house battery. This is important in some cases to insure there is actually a charge, and in some cases to prevent a fire from overcharging. From those two measurements you can determine if the wiring is adequate, if you are getting sufficient charge, and if you are overcharging.

There is a range of trucks here spanning 30+ years, charging strategies and regulation have changed in those 30 years and between brands. A DC-DC boost-buck charger can cover a lot of sins in a charging system, but may not be necessary, or may not be the only thing necessary, or may actually be detrimental. You need measurements to know.


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Grit dog

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Posted: 11/29/22 10:16am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Telecom jars is his nifty lingo for telecommunications backup batteries.


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ticki2

NH

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Posted: 11/29/22 10:48am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

HMS , that post should have been all caps . ?? so much partial info here


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pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 11/29/22 02:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Grit dog wrote:

Telecom jars is his nifty lingo for telecommunications backup batteries.


It is not my acronym. It is name used by the cell companies. They are a sub variant of AGM. I like them as I no longer have to lay down in the snow to do a specific gravity test.


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli

Seattle

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Posted: 11/29/22 10:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

All in all, life is better with Lithium Iron batteries. Better still with a dc to dc charger. Disconnect the 7 pin power wire from charging your batteries, it is no longer needed and may cause a feedback loop. Your dc to dc charger will be feeding a higher voltage back to the alternator and computer through that wire if left connected and you don't want that, weird stuff can happen. Right now, I'm in the TC with my 400 AH batteries at 80% charge because there was no sun to speak of today to charge them. Tomorrow I'll go for a drive and my 30 amp dc to dc charger will give them a good charge back up in an hours time. Enough to get a nice bacon cheese burger and walk along the beach. My 675 watts of solar on the roof and the MPPT Victron history shows I got a peak of 53 watts for a couple hours today. The redundancy of the 30 amp dc to dc charger is so nice to have. My 10 year old BoonDocker 45 amp shore power supply has something wrong with it and is only putting out 4 amps. I'm going to replace it with a Victron 3000 watt inverter power supply when I get down to Quartzite. The best thing about Lithium is they always put out 13.2 volts thanks to the BMS. Lead batteries, all types, slowly drop voltage as they discharge causing brown out conditions like dim lights, slow pump motors, and weak other loads. Not so with Lithium. 13.2 volts stable all the way down to 80 or 90% discharge and then the BMS protection shuts it off till recharged. Lithium is like having your cake and eating it too.


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