Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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valhalla360 wrote:At 14k GVWR, you are looking at a pin weight of 2800-3200lb by the time you load up and are ready to go out on a trip.
What does the yellow payload sticker on the door say? Pin weight along with passengers, gear, hitch, bolt on after market equipement...etc... all count against payload. Unless you are obsessive, I'm betting you are up close to 4000lb of payload used and most 3/4 ton trucks will be significantly over their limits.
Do people do it anyway? Sure. You will get people telling you that you can pull even more because they know better than the engineers. No ones going to pull you over, so ultimately, it's your call but if you want to stay within the ratings, I'll give you 10-1 odds you exceed them.
And I’ll give you 100-1 odds that you have no clue where the “ratings” come from… however unsurprising that may be.
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rhagfo
Portland, OR
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jjj wrote:I always go with the gvw and not the built weight.
You will slowly start adding more things when you
start using it and will find out you will start
getting close to your gvw before you know it.
Just like tires always fill to the max air, I go
by the GVW. Just my 2 cents. That is how I do it.
Good luck on your new fiver.
While this is a good policy, you also need to take into account the trailers payload capacity. In this case it was 3,200#+, so for weekending or even long trips not likely to get there.
What is really scary is seeing a 40'+ 5er with a payload of about 2,500#! They are NOT a rare occurrence, way too many out there with almost nothing for payload.
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Thermoguy
Graham, WA
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Lantley wrote:2112 wrote:I calculate it this way:
6340-2840=3500lbs. This is your rear axle limit
3500-200=3300lbs. Subtract 200lbs for the hitch
12000 X 0.25=3000. Guesstimated pin weight if the 12,000lb trailer is loaded to the max
3300-3000=300. You have 300lb margin on your rear axle.
I thought the pin weight was taken at 20% of gross weight not 25%.
12000 x .20= 2400 3300-2400=900
My 5ver has similar specs to this one. My 2500 has a rear rating of 6200. Weighing my unit fully loaded for camp, it was at 5142, over 1000 lbs of capacity left over. I think you will be fine as long as you bring what you need and not a lot of junk. I keep a lot of camp stuff in the trailer and have yet to have any weight issues.
As far as the hitch, I have a short bed, no slider hitch, my trailer is a little older so it does not have rounded corners. I did pop my window the first year I had the trailer backing at home. I learned a lesson, I just don't back as sharp. It hasn't kept me from camping where I want to. It's not an issue going forward, only backing. Just be careful and watch the corners when you back.
Do not go with a gooseneck adapter. Some are OK, but best to follow the lessons learned on this site. I have a friend that has a bent frame due to a gooseneck adapter. I have a companion hitch since I have both a gooseneck and 5th wheel trailer.
Good Luck with your decisions.
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Cummins12V98
on the road
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"Just like tires always fill to the max air"
Please explain WHY.
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Lantley
Ellicott City, Maryland
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To get maximum capacity out of the tire.
* This post was
edited 09/20/22 07:48am by an administrator/moderator *
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rhagfo
Portland, OR
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Well the tires on the back of my DRW are only inflated to 55 psi for the load I carry, for full payload 65 psi, sidewall 80psi. My name isn’t Fred Flintstone don’t like riding on rocks.
Max sidewall could be overinflated for load carried, resulting in poor wear and traction.
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Lantley
Ellicott City, Maryland
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I'm not trying to dial in the weights,because for the most part I don't have all the data to dal it in accurately.
I have tools and other stuff in the rear of my truck. Those things are not loaded/placed in the truck to evenly balance the weight. They are simply placed in the truck wherever they fit. As a result my tires are not carrying the same weight.
If I really wanted to use the charts to fill each tire to its corresponding PSI I would have to know the weight of each tire otherwise I'm just guessing.
Secondly we go through all the calculations and then buy a dually truck because it can carry a heavy load. However we then only fill the tires part wat which derates the trucks ability.
Give me full capacity. I did not buy a dually for the soft ride.
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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To each their own.
Hopefully the OP got the info he was seeking.
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edited 09/20/22 07:51am by an administrator/moderator *
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rhagfo
Portland, OR
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Lantley wrote:I'm not trying to dial in the weights,because for the most part I don't have all the data to dal it in accurately.
I have tools and other stuff in the rear of my truck. Those things are not loaded/placed in the truck to evenly balance the weight. They are simply placed in the truck wherever they fit. As a result my tires are not carrying the same weight.
If I really wanted to use the charts to fill each tire to its corresponding PSI I would have to know the weight of each tire otherwise I'm just guessing.
Secondly we go through all the calculations and then buy a dually truck because it can carry a heavy load. However we then only fill the tires part wat which derates the trucks ability.
Give me full capacity. I did not buy a dually for the soft ride.
Well do as you wish, but don’t complain about poor traction in wet or snowy conditions driving on those rocks. I run 80 front and 55 rear, even tire ware and great wet traction. Dual rears tires are derated to 2,800ish per tire. That is 11,200# total with out the 5er rear axle weighs about 4,500#, that is quite different.
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Cummins12V98
on the road
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VERY dangerous to be overinflated! WAYYYY less stopping ability. Greater tire wear and on yes horrible ride to name a few. Weigh your truck fully loaded, use the chart and add 5psi to the rears and 10 psi to the fronts. You will thank me!!!
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