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Single screw on dump valve won’t…

ivbinconned
Explorer II
Explorer II
The single screw that is suppose to grip the outer cover of the cable and hold it tears away and then the valve won’t shut.
What can a guy to to ensure it holds it?
Ram and 34 ft Cedar Creek
11 REPLIES 11

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
ivbinconned wrote:
I have forgotten how to post a picture!
I think I had an app in my old iPad??

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It is very simple to use. Follow these directions exactly.
1. Upload your picture from your computer to the app.
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3. Paste that URL into your post

without ANY changes

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Your picture will then appear in your post and be properly sized for use on our forums.:)

Note: Norton Lifelock does not like the site for some reason. I, and others, use it regularly without issue. When I get the red "Dangerous Webpage Blocked" message I just click on "continue to the site" down at the bottom and everything is ok. Have been doing this since 2014.
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Gdetrailer wrote:

If the cable fits through the collar you linked, it WILL fit through a wire gland.


I agree. now answer this.
You put the Wire Gland on the wire and lock it down.
How is it going to connect to the valve so that it can pull/push it open/close.. Push yes. Pull ... Well the shaft on the valve is not threaded.

Get a collar that just fits over the shaft. line up the holes so the set screw goes through the collar. INTO the shaft and grabs the wire inside. Problem solved... Works as designed..

That's why I suggested it.. The problem is stripped threads in the shaft.. you coudl also re-tap and use a larger set screw but I suspect overtightening will re-strip.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
wa8yxm wrote:
I'm thinking it's the set scew and that valve wont' work well with the "Gable glands)

Think a ring around the part the cable goes into with a threaded hole. and a longer set screw in the hole.. As I Said I've seen that before. I just don't know what it is called and I'm not that good at drawing.

Google.. However.. Knows more than I do.

This is the design. Likely the wrong size but it's the design and it's less than 2 bucks

Shaft Collar




If the cable fits through the collar you linked, it WILL fit through a wire gland.

And yes, a company I worked for used those collars on industrial machinery as well as cable glands for the electrical that fed the equipment.

Those collars are typically used on solid hard shafts to prevent them from shifting or moving around. Work good for that application.

They don't work well with applications that involve a hollow item as in the case of the outer jacket sleeve. That is due to limitations of how far the single screw can go in, how much pressure the outer jacket can take in the small spot the screw presses on before deforming to the point that the inside cable is pinched. The valve involved using collars like the one you linked are badly designed and unless you come up with a better clamping arrangement that will always be a failure point.

I am not talking about "status quo" fix, I am talking about making a one time permanent fix so one doesn't have to keep revisiting the problem.

A clamping system that has nearly the entire surface evenly clamped will be much less failure prone in the future.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
I'm thinking it's the set scew and that valve wont' work well with the "Gable glands)

Think a ring around the part the cable goes into with a threaded hole. and a longer set screw in the hole.. As I Said I've seen that before. I just don't know what it is called and I'm not that good at drawing.

Google.. However.. Knows more than I do.

This is the design. Likely the wrong size but it's the design and it's less than 2 bucks

Shaft Collar
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
wa8yxm wrote:
Are youtalking about the set screw that goes into the side of the valve end of the fitting and grips the wire?

You can get a "Collar" that goes over the stem. and has a threaded hole for a slightly longer set screw.. The problem is that though I've seen 'em. and I knwo how to make 'em.. I don't know where to buy 'em.
(Take a nut that just fits. Drill one face. Tap the hole)


Your post made me think of "cable and wire glands" which are typically used as a strain relief/moisture barrier for electrical wires..





Available in different IDs..

Still would have to make a bracket to mount the gland to the valve body.

Variety pack of 35 HERE

If you can measure the OD of the cable jacket you might be able to find a gland of slightly larger ID..

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Are youtalking about the set screw that goes into the side of the valve end of the fitting and grips the wire?

You can get a "Collar" that goes over the stem. and has a threaded hole for a slightly longer set screw.. The problem is that though I've seen 'em. and I knwo how to make 'em.. I don't know where to buy 'em.
(Take a nut that just fits. Drill one face. Tap the hole)
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
Sounds like a pretty poor design, The Valtera valve I posted seems to be about all I can find for reference and does have a pretty healthy looking clamping system.

Depending on one single screw to put pressure on the jacket to hold the jacket in place will never work for long as you have found out. You need a clamping system that puts pressure on the jacket 360 degrees (your hose clamp setup would be a improvement on a single point of contact).

You can rig up a bunch of different clamping systems that rely on one single point of contact (IE screw into the jacket) on what you have and it will keep failing.

This is the same idea as what you typically find on small engine cable throttles on lawn mowers, they always provide a healthy clamping system to hold the outer jacket from moving that doesn't use a single screw into the jacket..

Not a real good example but here is a pix that may illustrate a bit better..



In the case of this design the outer jacket is clamped between two points without crushing the jacket. The other end goes to the throttle and there is a metal clamp that surrounds the jacket to hold it in place.

If you really want to keep the valve you have, you will need to rig up a permanent metal bracket and clamping system that is capable of surrounding the jacket and attach the bracket to your valve some how.

Otherwise, perhaps bite the bullet and replace with a Valtera valve design like I showed and be done with the mess.

ivbinconned
Explorer II
Explorer II
I have forgotten how to post a picture!
I think I had an app in my old iPad??
Ram and 34 ft Cedar Creek

ivbinconned
Explorer II
Explorer II
No such clamp is on my valve and never was as I replaced it all two years ago.
What I did now was fasten a small hose clamp to the cable and tightened a tarp strap to the cable to help hold with tension to counter the force that wants to push the cable out of its holder when shutting the valve.
I’ll try to post a picture.
Ram and 34 ft Cedar Creek

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
I don't think the "single screw" is meant to hold the outer jacket..

Outer jacket should be held in place by the plastic clamp/holder with two screws (see item I have circled in red)



Only the center wire that moves the valve gate should be connected to the gate with one screw.

With that said, cable operated valves are known to have reliability issues, if possible replace with a standard non cable operated valve..

On edit..

Found installation instructions for the remote valve to cable..

HERE

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Plug the hole with kleenex. Treat it with water thin Ca glue. carefully run the screw in without the cable. Remove the screw and reinstall cable.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.